Repair #1

I decided to create a new thread, the other was getting too long...


Well,

I am about to engage in repairing the trailer wheels...

Some of you have said to just replace the hub completely, where do I get those ? Did not see it in Walmart...

Second, how to you go about extracting the bearing racer rings ? Hit them with a brass stick from the opposite side ?

Is there a special tool to extract and insert the race ring ?

Third, The seal that comes with the bearings, which side does that goes, on the rear side of the Hub, closer to the trailer ?

From what I could gather in the dark, seems like the tire that kept locking up just did not have enough spacers, so the luck not would go far enough into the axle and far way enough from the pin that the pin could not prevent it from rotating and then the wheel motion itself will over tighten the lock nut.

I wonder the sequence order of the parts that go in the hub...

Rear side:
The lip on the axle itself that prevents the hub from coming in further.
The bearing seal
The bearing itself
The Bearing race ring.

From the front size:
The Bearing Race ring
The bearing
The Luck nut
The pin
The hub cap

Is that the correct order that this thing should go...

I would say the front size doesn't need the seal due to the Hub Cap which prevents the grease from escaping.

Now the rear side of the hub doesn't have anything to prevent the grease from leaving so that's where the seal should go ?



Side Note:

I have not tried to run the motor yet, but from the trailer experience, think I just got myself a good anchor in the shape of an motor.

I took a closer look at it and the choke button is gone and who know what else this motor is missing.

I was told it was a 1992 motor, but it turns out to be a Mercury/Sears 1988 225.587500

I tried too look more info on it but google did not return much.

I will put a new fuel line, fresh gas, bucket of water and give it a try to see if it turns on...

here is a link https://video.google.com/videosearch?q=how+to+replace+trailer+bearings&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title# or this https://www.planetnautique.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=134 you can call some trailer places in your phonebook and ask them if they seel hubs or if they know of a trailer supply store i think i paid 35.00 for new hubs

Concerning the bearing races, use brass or wood rod and a hammer, use light taps and even pressure (work it around the race) so you don't scar the hub with the race. You can put them in the same way in reverse if you don't have a press, to get them started, use a flat piece of wood that covers the entire race and a good whack to set it.

I'd replace the spark plug(s) too, and take a picture of the plug(s) that come out and post them here, used plugs can tell you a lot about an engine.

Trailer hub kits can be had at Northern Tool.Price depends on size and load compacity needed.
https://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_6970_166839+166845+775725

For your Sears Gamefisher outboard,check out https://www.sears.com.Go to lawn and garden.Then scroll down to parts dept.You will need to enter your model number the way it is written on the tag.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Other place for out board parts(new & Used) try ebay.

I just replaced a hub on my trailer. Found one at Blains Farm and Fleet. It came with the races in place and a set of bearings for $40.

Tractor Supply, Rural King, Farm & Fleet...any of those type of farm stores probably carry them......I'm shocked there's something Sprawl-Mart didn't have :wink:

Just replace the hubs, save the bearing/seal replacement until you familiarize yourself with the process, otherwise you may find yourself in a similar situation as your trip home with the trailer.....

ST

dedawg1149 said:

here is a link https://video.google.com/videosearch?q=how+to+replace+trailer+bearings&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title# or this https://www.planetnautique.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=134 you can call some trailer places in your phonebook and ask them if they seel hubs or if they know of a trailer supply store i think i paid 35.00 for new hubs

Click to expand...

Great Links and suggestions guys... Very well appreciated, and I can't help it but to engage in fixing the current hubs.

I got must of my questions answered and it confirm that who ever did these hubs last did not know what they were doing and left a bunch of parts out.

There were NO back seal and there is no front washer to hold the front bearing in place.

I will fix these issues and report when I am done.

SVNET

If I was closer I would lend a hand.Those hubs on your trailer are simple.Shouldn't take more than an hour shooting the breeze.

you will want to buy new bearings the amount of time you ran the bearings in the old races going home would be enough to ruin them,you don't want to be broke down on the side of the road and have to leave your boat .and sometimes the bearing will melt and it will ruin the axle. if it does this you will have to buy a axle .i would recommend buying new hubs with the races already installed or finding someone to help. or paying someone to put them in for you .it could be a big head ache for you if it ain't done properly.this is just my recommendation

Oh boy,

Not having this forum for a day was like my whole life stop. I am an addict what can I say!

Well, I was able to take the old racers out last night no problem, it took me about 15min total.

I will be putting new racers/bearings tonite when I get home to hold me up for now...

Defenitely who ever did it before me left some parts out, no seals and not washers/spacers.

The axle is too long for the hubs, so the castle nut has to go in too far and away from the pin, which means the pin cant prevent it from moving and the motion of the bearing itself over tightents the castle not to the point that nothing can't turn.

I will take pictures tonight and will post later as I work on it, so far it doesn't seem anything too difficult.

Thank you guys...

It's not uncommon to find seals removed. I've ended-up with a couple trailers the previous owners had done this way. They just shoot grease in the Bearing Buddies on a regular basis, and think no seal it the better route.

ST

SVNET said:

Oh boy,

The axle is too long for the hubs, so the castle nut has to go in too far and away from the pin, which means the pin cant prevent it from moving and the motion of the bearing itself over tighten the castle not to the point that nothing can't turn.

I will take pictures tonight and will post later as I work on it, so far it doesn't seem anything too difficult.

Thank you guys...

Click to expand...

you definitely need to post pictures so we can see what you are talking about

I didn't even see that part when I read about the seals #-o

I wonder if you got the wrong inner bearings & they're slipping up over the shoulder on the axle?

ST

SlimeTime said:

I wonder if you got the wrong inner bearings & they're slipping up over the shoulder on the axle?

ST

Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. Or the previous owner changed hubs/bearings and got the wrong ones for the axle and SVNET is just matching #'s off the bearings????



SVNET,
Make sure the inner bearing fits snug on the axle. It should slide all the way back to the stop, but should have no play between inner bearing race and the axle, if there is any play, you have got the wrong bearing or a worn out axle, IF the axle is wore out, it should be pretty obvious, the bearing will slide snug almost back to the stop, then get sloppy... And then make sure the outer race of the same inner bearing fits the hub, it will HAVE to be knocked or pressed into the hub. Do this before you put everything in the hub. (seal etc...)

ALSO, make sure the inner race of the inner bearing isn't still on the axle.... It's not uncommon for this part to weld itself to the axle... If that's the case, an angle grinder and a chisel is your best friend, If you do have to go this route, grind the inner race almost all the way down to the axle, then whack it with the chisel, making sure to try and not to hit the axle. After you get the race off, you can go around it with a file to smooth off any burrs...

Hope that helps. And if anyone sees anything I missed, please add...
Not trying to scare you with the grinding etc, just letting you know what can happen....

I will be cleaning the little carb on the engine.

What is a good carb cleaner to get and where...

I am looking for the big stuff, where I can leave it soaking overnight, not just the spray stuff I get at walmart.

Any hints and tips welcome...

I am not planing on taking the whole thing apart, but just doing the basic parts that are easy to get to and blowing it with air afterwards...

Updates:

The guy at the autopart advise that a quart of Accetone from Lowes should be cheaper and enough to soak in the carb orvernight if I take the whole thing apart, other wise I could just 1/2 disasemble it and just spray gumout carb cleaner on every hole that I find...

Also, got a piece of gasket material to recreate the seal gasket for the carb, do I also need any adgesive sealant or just clean the base mounts and use the gasket dry ?

you might want to pm bassboy about your carb .how did you make out with your trailer bearings

If it runs currently, go get a can of SeaFoam & mix in with the gas mix. Please don't take offense to this, but no more mechanical experience than you have, I'd advise against your removing & disassembling the carb.

Smitty

Successfully repaired one side with new bearings, piece of cake, thank you all for all the help and those videos that are confidence boosters.

Here are some pictures of the Job done so far and the issue with the Axles...

Spark Plug at current state condition.



Bad side of the Axle and the old bearing racer condition - bad stuff...





Repair progress - Final result was really good on this side...





Will report back when I finish the other side "the bad side"....

Well, this bearing / Axle Journey has come to an end... I was able to repair both sides and it is spinning great!

$60 Tires, $30 Bearing Kits, $6 Spacer Washers, $10 Usable goods, latex gloves, grease, etc, Total $106 Total + Time + Headaches.

Priceless learning experience... But I am hard headed and still won't learn, pushing 35 years old and still think like a boy...

In my current job I met a bike riding buddy name Bryant, and he once told me, Manny, the trick to life and happiness is to pay attention to details, hints that are blown in the air but that most of the time get lost without you capturing them... I think that has been the biggest lesson someone has ever told me and the one I hardly apply or use. Bryant joint the Army, left FL and I have not seen him in about a year, I got to call him to see how he is doing...

When I call the ex-owner of my boat, I ask him if he will be willing to meet me in Orange Park, just outside of Jax so that I did not have to get inside the city and get lost. He refused, he told me that he would sell it to me for the price I offered him, but that he did not feel like doing the drive with the trailer bouncing around the road "HINT". I immediately replied to him asking if there was anything wrong with the trailer, he said NO, "everything has always been stored inside my garage so it all looks new"... The hint was blown in the air but I failed to capture the detail, I wanted the boat so bad that I just did not wanted to hear anything... Well, it has cost me!

Enough complaining and crying, I am very proud of myself, I got junk, I never dealt with bearings before, I was able to clean up the junk and make it work again. The shoulder of the Axle that holds back the rear bearing works great, but for some reason that night the hub was going so far back into the chassis that even the tire was rubbing against the chassis brackets... Also, in order to properly tighten the hub, the castle nut had to go so far in that it skip/missed the locking pin. In this case, the pin is just not a safety pin, it actually serves are a locking device to prevent the Nut from sniping and over tightening the bearings to the point that it locks the wheel. I am not sure what is causing this phenomenon, it might be a defect in craftsmanship on the width of the hub or the axle, or the pin hold was just drilled too close to the edge of the axle... What ever the cause of this issue, the fix to it was to add two spacing washers, $2.60 each in order to make it work.

I am proud to said this episode is over and we can now move on to repair two, trying to get the outboard to start...

See final pictures below of the bad side axle wheel and bearing...







All done!

Good job! I bet that's a load off your mind.....lol, as well as the wallet :mrgreen:

ST