question on bench seat

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toyz1972

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can you guys give me some ideas on how to attatch wood to the top of a bench seat in a jon boat.maybe some ideas on hardware.this will be holding the seat down to.thanks alot :idea:
 
I attached wood to my bench with #14 x 2" self-tapping screws. I put one in each corner, then another about 8 inches apart. I then attached my seat mount with the same screws. Stainless screws would be best for corrosion, but I've used zinc plated and they haven't started rusting yet on my other jon which was done 3 years ago.

Check out my boat in the Boat Modification forum titled Alumacraft 1236 Makeover
 
you could use some liguid nails or 3m 5200 sealent and screw it it wont come loose but if you have to take it back off you would have alot of cleaning up
 
good ideas guys,i think in going to drill four 1 inch access holes,1 in each corner.then i can drill and bolt them.thx for the help :D
 
it doesn't matter how thick the metal is.. i mean, mine is like 1/16" thick if that.

If you drill 1" holes, how are you going to get under the bench to get it tightened? Unless you use those wall anchor type nuts/bolts that you use for sheetrock that expand as they are tightened.

A pic of what you are working with would help.
 
Before attaching the wood, be sure to paint it with several coats of paint. After that, I suggest using the Liquid Nails as already suggested, then the bolts or screws. Wal Mart sells an acrylic enamel for a little over 16 dollars. I just added plywood flooring and coated it with three coats....before carpeting....especially the edges of the wood and particularly in your case, at least three coats on the end grain. Do no use stainless steel bolts or screws. It sets up a galvanic response and will deteriorate the aluminum. Also, marine plywood will affect aluminum...as well as treated wood. Hope this helps...good fishing, Mac
 
If you decide to use liquid nails.......a tip or two...

Use the industrial or heavy duty.

When applying it to the board.....use a serpentine looping patttern......this leaves gaps for air to escape....picture a snake laying on the board, his head at the upper right corner and his tail, after looping back and forth, his tail at the lower left corner. The snake at no point touches himself, but overall is a long snake looping back and forth along the way. Hope this isn't an inslult to anyone's intelligence, but the open loops are the way to go.

Good Fishing, Mac
 
I don't know about mounting wood to the seat but I've mounted rod holders and a sonar bracket to my seats using the correct drill and 8-32 tapped threads with 8-32 stainless machine screws. The seat metal on mine is rather thin but these screws appear to hold pretty well.
 
I would use toggle bolts with a dollop of silicone sealant on the toggle. That way if you have to remove the wood, the toggle will be still there when you replace the wood. Silicone won't be needed if there is unrestricted access to the under side. If you have complete access I would use 1/4" x 20 Flat head screws.
 
WOW,didnt think any1 noticed my post.im going with bolts and liquid nail.i like bolts because of strenth,and liquid nail as add strenth.thx for the plies on this.ill post pictures when im finished.i was going with a front deck,but i decided im going to keep it simple for easy access,and carrying.but the next project look out.thx again guys
 

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