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who pooted?

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Guys,
Just double checking that 1x1x1/8 alum angle will be alright for alum deck support. Anybody?
 
Hello, I'm new to this forum...my first post was yesterday! https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5968 Anyhow, to your question;

There are several factors to consider, including the wall thickness of your angle, the rigidity of the material it's supporting, the distance it has to span etc. IMHO, the answer would probably be "no." On my boat, I needed to span over 4' in width, requiring that the front deck be made in 2 halves. (running front to back) With the price of marine ply., this was a painful realization! :shock: I also had to consider my mass~over 330lbs. A little flex in the deck would be OK, but I needed to know that if I was standing on the seam, it wouldn't come apart. I ended up using 1"x2" aluminum angle (the 2" limb being vertical) and 5 pcs. of it. It still flexes, but it's very solid. To mount it after carpeting, w/o seeing it from the top, here is what I did;

1.Decide on where to place the angle, and drill it where you want the machine screws to be. 5/16" holes for 1/4"x20 machine screws. Transfer the hole locations onto the marine ply., and drill the same size holes, or slightly smaller. (9/32")

2.Now, you want to "trap" the bolts in the ply., facing down, so that only the threaded post sticks out of the surface. Counter-bore the holes from the bottom so that the the nut will be flush to the surface. Countersink from the top, as shown in the drawing. (I'll use the names I gave them IN the drawing now) You want the SS nylon lock nut #1 to be VERY tight when you mate it with the SS machine screw. Look at Step 2. The SS machine screw and SS nylon lock nut #1 are joined, the nut below the surface of the marine ply.

3.With all the SS machine screws in place, simply install the 1"x2" aluminum angle over the threaded posts of the SS machine screws, through the holes you pre-drilled. Using SS nylon lock nut #2, fasten the aluminum angle in place. It is CRITICAL that SS nut #1 and the screw are very tight (use Loctite) otherwise, SS nut #2 could start to spin the SS machine screw before it's done it's job.

4.Install marine carpeting!

MarineplyANGLE.jpg


I hope this helps, this solution worked very well on my deck.

Cheers,
C40
 
Most people on here use 1 1/4"x1 1/4"x1/8" without any problems.Most use aluminum pop(AKA Cherry) rivets under decks,and stainless screws,bolts,washers,and nuts every where else.
 
YamahaC40 guy, welcome and thanks. I'm not using wood on this build. I've got some alum sheeting for the deck, and I only weight 180lbs, so I'm hoping that doing the correct design on my support will be ok with the 1x1x1/8. Ben2Go any thoughts?
Bassboy you always have something interesting. If your listening let me get some of your input as well.
Same goes for anyone else.
 
who pooted? said:
Bassboy you always have something interesting.
Unfortunately, I have been a little too interesting lately. :cry:

Anyway, I used all tubing on my rig, because that was what was available cheaply. Structurally, it was fine, and the final product was fine, but the downfall was it was a pain in the neck to build. But, all angle is not the greatest either. Were I doing it over, I would go with tubing for my verticals, and angle for my horizontals. Unless, of course, it was like I had to do behind my rod locker, where I had a 4 foot single span. Then, it would be back to a double layer of tubing, with 1 inch between, and a 2 inch long block separating them every foot. Rivet a piece of sheet either side, and you can make as long of span as you need in a boat. Make it rock solid.

As far as size, I personally wouldn't go with 1 inch. I used that to make a lip on something, and while it probably work for a standard span, I like rock solid decks. Were I to do it over again, I would very likely use 1.5 inch, with .125 inch thickness angle, for horizontals.

Also, for my deck, I used .090, even though I wanted .125, because that is what was available cheaply. It just required a little more bracing, and the end result was no different, but I wished I could have had .125, just because.

Post a lot of pictures, and feel free to ask anything of us. Somebody here certainly knows the answer.
 
Jirwin and Bassboy thanks. As for the alum sheeting for the deck, it's thickness is .125. I'm hoping that i can make the 1x1 work. I guess I can just brace every 8 inches or so. I plan on building my front deck from mid seat to front seat w/only two storage compartments on the left and right. I'll have a pedestal mount in the middle just before the mid seat w/the two storage on either side. I plan on building a mount for my FCTM 50lb thrust. As for the back of the boat......small raised floor (6inches or so) for small storage I'll have a couple extra compartments in the floor. Plan on doing a pedestal mount in the middle of it as well. I keep thinking I'm mispelling pedestal...oh well that shows my Arkansas edumacation. FInal deck will be build on back seat with panel folding and covering over back area.
Let me know what you guys think. As for pics it will have to be this weekend. I go to work when it's dark and come home when it's dark. Ah the life as a paint store manager!
Aside from that my wife has got me doing crap all over our house to get ready for her office Christmas party we are having at our house. Just found out about that little gem yesterday. So I'll be painting, finishing cabinets, laying tile, and doing whatever else she can think of that needs to be finished before the 20th! I'm gonna kill her! Being a newlywed is great!
 
Nonsense. 8 inches is overkill, even by my standards. I didn't realize you already had the material on hand. Since you do, I would make the best of it. Can you give a rough sketch (just draw lines over a picture using by right clicking the picture, and hitting edit), of what deck you want, and post that? What boat is this? A 1436 flatbottom, if I remember correctly from another post? Are you planning on attaching the verticals to the ribs in the hull? And, if so, I am assuming they are on 16 inch centers? Provided that, you would likely be just fine having your vertical supports every 16 inches lengthwise, as long as they were about every 12 crosswise (and, this is assuming most of your main framework is running fore and alf, not side to side).

One thing is, how are you planning to frame hatch lids out of angle? I (luckily) figured out that they need to be integrated into the framework of the deck, for the proper support, before I built mine.
 
Bassboy you are right about the boat size 1436. I will take your input on the build and run with it. As for pics, it keeps raining here in England, Arkansas and it's dark when i get home so pics will have to be this weekend. I'll draw the design for the deck/support over top of the pic and you and others can give me input. I also just got back from Harbor Freight and purchased a heavy duty riveter for 20 bucks that does automotive size rivets to use on this build. At Napa and other places this would have cost anywhere from $150-200. Even if I never use it again it will be the best $20 I've spent.
On the support you said to build it going from the front seat to the back, not from the left side of the boat to the right, right? Reason for this? I was planning on building from front seat to middle as well as gridding it out from left to right. On the hatches I'll have to think a little bit on that. What would you do?
Thanks to all.
 
On the support you said to build it going from the front seat to the back, not from the left side of the boat to the right, right? Reason for this?
In a hurry now, so I can't answer much, but I like to tie everything together, and have the bench and the bow take some of the stress as well. If you do it side to side, the stress is on the boat sides, which is not as strong, as the fore and aft stress on the bench and bow.
 

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