Wanna build a tin boat from scratch?Here's the plans.

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ben2go

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Messages
2,758
Reaction score
0
Location
Upstate,South Carolina
I was looking for info on sailboats and came across this. https://www.oneuglyboat.com/johnboats.php 16' to 20' aluminum Jon boat plans.I know bassboy1 will get a thrill out of them.There are also pontoon and camp boat plans.Even a house boat powered by an outboard.
 
I think bassboy had a thread about building a jon from scratch.I've seen it done in wood,but it's blasphamy to call them jons.They are considered Garveys. :roll:
 
This is plans for a wooden Jon but could easily be built out of aluminum. https://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/jonsboat/index.htm
 
ben2go said:
I think bassboy had a thread about building a jon from scratch.
Nope, better than that. My plan (at the time of that thread) was to build an 18 foot Center Console aluminum deep vee (not technically, the cutoff point for deep vee is 20 degrees deadrise at the transom, but the design I chose will have a 12 degree deadrise).

I have been convinced now to build the 20 foot version, as that extra 2 feet will open up many opportunities. Kinda like the big jump in a 14 to 15 that I noticed when building the Yazoo. That one extra linear foot opened up many opportunities I wouldn't have had otherwise. \

Here is a link to the plans I will probably go with.

https://www.boatdesigns.com/products.asp?dept=878
https://glen-l.com/designs/hankinson/slither-snakeshtr.html
https://glen-l.com/designs/hankinson/snakeshooter-pho-2.html

Only thing is, I might consult with somebody who has a clue what they are doing, and modify these plans to a 15 degree deadrise.

Really, the only thing stopping me is money. I have estimated out, that if I want to build this the way I want it, and put it on an aluminum trailer (either homebuilt or used) coupled with probably a 140 outboard, and fairly nice electronics and trolling motor (used, but in good condition), I am looking at between 12 and 15 thousand. Now, it is probably right on par with a fairly new used rig of the same proportions, but the fun is in building it, and having it exactly the way I like it.

I have actually considered selling my current rig, or trading up to something, and invest the money in high risk, but possible high yield investments (better than stocks) to hopefully be able to afford this before I graduate high school, yet still be able to afford little toys (new fishing rod every now and then etc) from a meager day job at minimum wage. Still pondering that idea.
 
That snake shooter would be a hooter. :LMFAO: I'd build that one with a 100hp diesel I/O for good fuel economy and range.Either way it'll be a nice boat to own.
 
I/O? That is worse than.....



I hate to say it.....



A Mercury



For me, it is outboard power or bust. Now, diesel does have pluses in some cases, but only in the case of a true inboard, and not the garbage they call inboard outboards (I don't really know what compelled them to do such, but they really took the worst of both worlds, and combined them together). At some point in the distant future (likely in my adult life) you will probably see something with a diesel inboard come out of my shop, probably a large wooden hulled something, but inboard outboard? Nope.
 
:oops: :oops:

Hey, at least with a merc, when you have to work on them (frequently :lol: ) you can do it a reasonable working height, and you are not inverted......
 
While I won't go so far as to say they are unreliable, as I lack enough experience with them for that, I will say that they are impractical, as I do have the experience for that. Basically, you are putting a car engine in a boat. You would have about the same issues as trying to power your pickup truck with a Johnson 250. The biggest thing is the bellows. It is the rubber boot that connects everything from the movable outdrive to the fixed engine. They get real brittle after a couple years - less even in hot climates. It is a pain in the tail to fix (involves disconnecting, and removing the outdrive), and it must be done about as frequently as a water pump impeller. Now, on an outboard, if the water pump impeller goes bad, and you marina store it, no problem, just get it fixed when you can and don't crank the motor. However, if the bellows goes bad, you better get the boat on the trailer, as water will pour through these, and sink your rig. boatus.com did a study, and 44 % of I/Os that sank at the dock were attributed to bellows or water jackets busting, and 20% that sank underway.

Also, look at the size of the hole in your transom, that must be sealed correctly, as well as all the other fittings.
This accounts for 23% of docked sinkings, and 24% of underway sinkings.

And, if you throw a rod, and it busts a water jacket, that could sink ya too.

Now, while those are uncommon, the only thing that boatus found about outboards sinking at the dock was bad cockpit design that trapped water, while that only accounted for 15% of the I/O dock sinkings.

Now, time to change the oil. Woops. No drain plug. Got to pump the oil out. Pain.

The weight too. I don't have time to look up the numbers right now, but I think it took a 135 I/O to equal a 90 outboard. 90 outboard - 375 pounds. 135 I/O (4 cyl mercruiser) - 700+

Figure out how to change a water pump too.

Now, lets get to servicing the engine itself. Nice hole sized so the engine and nothing else, which includes hand wrapped around wrench, would fit. Plus, it is dark, and you are upside down.

Also, your engine is trapped under your deck, so all your fumes must be ventilated, and a ventilation malfunction is much likelier to cause a problem. Plus, running the blower for 2 minutes before you start is not fun either.

If you marina store, especially in salt water, you cannot tilt your engine out of the water, so it is subject to whatever marine growth/salt corrosion the hull is, and keep in mind, it is made of aluminum, which will love to corrode in the presence of the electric field from shorepower. Same reason Marina stored aluminum boats need to be drystacked. One of the VERY short list of advantages to glass boats.

Now, the fact that you don't have an "ugly" motor on the back is a plus for some people, as is the advantage of a swim deck, on many pleasure boaters. But, once you get past that, and certain I/O jets for swift rivers, we have run out of pros. I kind of like the "ugly" motor on the back (unless it is a merc. :shock: )

Now, there are some other minor advantages to Inboard Outboards, but these can also be had with 4 stroke outboards, so it is pretty much nil.
 
I must maintain boats purdy good.I never had those problems.I knew of them but thought there was more to it than that.I never had the bellows to fail,but I covered the unit with cover special made for it.I have had the flexible exhaust tubing to crack and drip.Good bilge pump.Oil changes are a pain.The boat stayed on trailer when not in use and covered.The boat I used and took care of was a tri hull.I never ran the vent fan.Instead I tilted the dog house forward while I was loading and getting ready to go out.I know,some boats have the engine buried under the deck, and fuel vapors are heavier than air so my trick doesn't work.I've seen a couple good ramp explosions because of faulty vent fans.Luckily,I've never seen anyone get hurt.Seen a few guys cry like a baby tho. :LOL2:
 
your argument lacks credibility. I've had my Ski boat for 5 years, changed the impeller once and it looked like new. I have a drain hose for the oil I pull out through the garboard drain hole. Bellows will go if you store your boat with the drive up , but if you keep the drive down whenever possible and keep it covered from UV light then you don't have them problems . 90% of the problems you stated are from "LACK OF PROPER MAINTENANCE".... My 135 HP I/O only weighs 200 # more than a 135 HP OB and the weight is shifted forward a bit more instead of it all hanging right on the transom so that point is moot also .. Another thing is that my engine is very accessible. and pulling a drive is easy, along with changing the impeller, is no harder then an OB impeller change..
 
You can change the impellar once every 5 years on an outboard, and it come out looking like new. However, most anybody who knows something about them would say that is not a good idea at all. 5 years is time to replace bellows too. And, most of the instances I mentioned are an if it breaks instance, not a guarantee that it will break. Outboards break too, usually due as well to lack of proper maintenance, and my point was look at the ease of repairing the outboard over the I/O. I never said that they break more, did I?

The weight is NOT a moot point. Reread my post. Did I mention once that the weight affects handling. Negative. I just said weight is a difference. And, it IS. Whether or not it is enough of a difference to be put in a selling point, has been unspoken on this thread, but the fact of the matter is, it IS a difference, and THAT is what I said.

Oh, okay, you got a boat with a dog house. Congrats. Yours is easier to work on. However, and I phrased it wrong in my original post, many are deep in a well, and you cannot get to them. Those would be the ones I have worked on.

Also, I don't think I mentioned cost ONLY OF MAINTENANCE on the I/O vs. the outboard. I won't go into details, so I don't have to defend them later, but do the research yourself (this isn't directed at anyone in particular) and you will see what I am talking about. Heck, do the research on anything I posted, (with the possible exception of the I/O to outboard comparison as far as equal comparison goes. Been awhile since I had read what the numbers come out to be), and you will see why I said what I said.
 
Top