Fiberglass deck???

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Guy

Active member
Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
I just purchased a Tracker 1436 Jon Boat. Since I do alot of saltwater fishing in the flats of the Cheseapeke Bay I don't want to use carpet. I was thinking about installing 5/8 plywood decking and fiberglass the decks. That way I can remove the decks, hose down the fish guts, sand, dirt etc.
The question I have is I would like to stain the plywood first before laying fiberglass. Is this ok or do you lay the fiberglass first and then stain. I would think that the stain is not going to penatrate if the boat is fiberglass'ed first. Maybe this is a stupid question but I thought I would ask anyway.

Jonboat fanatic!!
 
Why are you putting fiberglass on the decks? It will add a ton of weight and not much else.


Use some non slip paint on the plywood and save yourself some money and time.



I fish the flats each spring as well - where do you launch from?
 
Chesapeake Bay huh!? I am down in Virginia Beach!...

I agree, fiberglass is a lot of weight. And once the fiberglass hardened, the stain wouldn't penetrate it would dry on top eventually and be easily wiped off. Fortunately once fiberglassed the plywood would be sealed and not need stain or sealant on that side. There has to be a lighter and more cost effective way though.
 
Fiberglass is a horrible choice in your case. That is the reason old fiberglass boats are junk these days. The wood in the decks, stringers, and transoms collects water, and being incased in glass, it can't dry out, so it rots. That is why all reputable manufactures have gone to all glass boats, with no wood, in place of the conventional method of glass mat and resin over wood.

Is fiberglass really the finish you want, or would a marine vinyl or something over spar varnish (to protect the wood) be possible as well?
 
VBTravisD said:
Chesapeake Bay huh!? I am down in Virginia Beach!...

I agree, forgot that te fiberglass is a lot of weight. And once the fiberglass hardened, the stain wouldn't penetrate it would dry on top eventually and be easily wiped off. Fortunately once fiberglassed the plywood would be sealed and not need stain or sealant on that side. There has to be a lighter and more cost effective way though.

You guys are right. I forgot about the added weight which I definately don't need. I think I will just use outdoor carpet.

By the way...I used to have a kayak and launched at the lesner bridge. I also live in Virginia Beach in Glennwood area. Just picked up my new boat today from Bass Pro.
 
bassboy1 said:
Fiberglass is a horrible choice in your case. That is the reason old fiberglass boats are junk these days. The wood in the decks, stringers, and transoms collects water, and being incased in glass, it can't dry out, so it rots. That is why all reputable manufactures have gone to all glass boats, with no wood, in place of the conventional method of glass mat and resin over wood.

Is fiberglass really the finish you want, or would a marine vinyl or something over spar varnish (to protect the wood) be possible as well?


I like your idea of using a spar varnish for the decking. Is this a good seal protection for the wood?
 
Guy said:
I like your idea of using a spar varnish for the decking. Is this a good seal protection for the wood?
Yes. In fact, it is what most wooden boats are coated with. The next best option is a water sealer usually marketed for decks and porches. Behr and Thompson's make good quality versions of that.

I COMPLETELY agree with you on not putting carpet in that rig. Sand is about the second worse thing to get in carpet (Ga red clay beats it out though - if you have never been around the stuff, you wouldn't understand). There are plenty of marine vinyl floorings, and other things that are made for boat decks. Not sure how well they would adhere to the spar varnish, so you may have to look into that. A vinyl that wraps around your removable deck and staples on the bottom with Monel staples, and a dab of varnish or sealer over them (to seal when they penetrate) may be an option if there is nothing that wants to adhere to spar varnish.

Another option is a good quality oil based paint. It will seal decks relatively well too, and for non skid on the top, you can either mix sand in with the paint, or use a matching color truck bed liner, or other non skid coating.
 
bassboy1 said:
Guy said:
I like your idea of using a spar varnish for the decking. Is this a good seal protection for the wood?
Yes. In fact, it is what most wooden boats are coated with. The next best option is a water sealer usually marketed for decks and porches. Behr and Thompson's make good quality versions of that.

I COMPLETELY agree with you on not putting carpet in that rig. Sand is about the second worse thing to get in carpet (Ga red clay beats it out though - if you have never been around the stuff, you wouldn't understand). There are plenty of marine vinyl floorings, and other things that are made for boat decks. Not sure how well they would adhere to the spar varnish, so you may have to look into that. A vinyl that wraps around your removable deck and staples on the bottom with Monel staples, and a dab of varnish or sealer over them (to seal when they penetrate) may be an option if there is nothing that wants to adhere to spar varnish.

Another option is a good quality oil based paint. It will seal decks relatively well too, and for non skid on the top, you can either mix sand in with the paint, or use a matching color truck bed liner, or other non skid coating.

Sure appreciate your advice...You got me thinking about just using SPAR vanish with some non-skid and I'll be set. It will not only look nice but durable and easy maintenace to hose down and clean.

Thanks!!
 
A friend of mine who does hardwood floors for a living suggested using a varnish and after applying it while it is still wet sprinkling some sand over it for grip.
 
I'd seal the wood them coat it with "undercoating w/ sound deadiner". it comes in arisol cans at the parts store. then you can paint over it with whatever color you'd like so the black wont bake you while your out fishing
 
I live about five minutes from the upper chesapeake bay flats area. I have fished there since I was 13. Guy- post your area you are from when you get time. I agree with the others, fiberglass is too heavy. Use the marine vinyl. You can get anything on that stuff and just rinse it off. Cant wait for those big hog rockfish to pull up to the flats. Should be very soon.
 
I have another question for all you experts...If I use a strip of alluminum angle iron riveted accross the front on the bow section and a strip of angle iron on the front of the front beach seat and set a piece of 3/4 plywood on the alluminum angle iron, would this hold well without bracing support to stand on? I weight approximately 220lbs. I have read some forums that this works well. I dont want to put a lot of holes in a brand new jon boat if I can help it. But...I will if I have to.
 
clarker2000 said:
I live about five minutes from the upper chesapeake bay flats area. I have fished there since I was 13. Guy- post your area you are from when you get time. I agree with the others, fiberglass is too heavy. Use the marine vinyl. You can get anything on that stuff and just rinse it off. Cant wait for those big hog rockfish to pull up to the flats. Should be very soon.

Chris,
I live in Glenwood area in Virginia Beach. It's about 20 minutes from the flats. If you go to the end of south independance, you are near my area. I can't wait for the rock either. What a good eating fish...
 
Guy said:
clarker2000 said:
I live about five minutes from the upper chesapeake bay flats area. I have fished there since I was 13. Guy- post your area you are from when you get time. I agree with the others, fiberglass is too heavy. Use the marine vinyl. You can get anything on that stuff and just rinse it off. Cant wait for those big hog rockfish to pull up to the flats. Should be very soon.

Chris,
I live in Glenwood area in Virginia Beach. It's about 20 minutes from the flats. If you go to the end of south independance, you are near my area. I can't wait for the rock either. What a good eating fish...

Chris,
I just looked at some marine vinyl online at basspro. I think this is the way I am going to go. Thanks for all you experts help.
 
Guy said:
I have another question for all you experts...If I use a strip of alluminum angle iron riveted accross the front on the bow section and a strip of angle iron on the front of the front beach seat and set a piece of 3/4 plywood on the alluminum angle iron, would this hold well without bracing support to stand on? I weight approximately 220lbs. I have read some forums that this works well. I dont want to put a lot of holes in a brand new jon boat if I can help it. But...I will if I have to.
No. You will need some longitudinal structure in there. 3 2 x 4s, one on each side, and one in the middle will likely be just dandy. Or, aluminum tubing if it fits the budget. (I'm an alumaholic :lol: )

That will also allow you to put some hatch lids in, so you don't waste all the space under the deck.

I hear you on not wanting to drill holes in a new boat. But, you could attach the 2 x 4s or tubing to the same piece of aluminum you mentioned before (just mounted a little lower) so the amount of holes would be about the same.
 
I wasnt aware that the chesapeake had 2 areas known as the flats? I am in the northern most area of the bay, where the susquehanna flats come in. Great bass fishing all year round and very good trophy striper fishing in the early spring, but you cant keep them. The big monsters make there way all the way to the top to spawn. THrowing topwater plugs and jerkbaits are killer. Nothing like a 50lb striper on bass gear!!!!! They usually start heating up in late march/early april.
 
clarker2000 said:
I wasnt aware that the chesapeake had 2 areas known as the flats? I am in the northern most area of the bay, where the susquehanna flats come in. Great bass fishing all year round and very good trophy striper fishing in the early spring, but you cant keep them. The big monsters make there way all the way to the top to spawn. THrowing topwater plugs and jerkbaits are killer. Nothing like a 50lb striper on bass gear!!!!! They usually start heating up in late march/early april.

I definately know what you mean..I can't wait for spring. I have just about had all I can take of winter and its not even the middle of february yet. 8)
 
bassboy1 said:
Guy said:
I have another question for all you experts...If I use a strip of alluminum angle iron riveted accross the front on the bow section and a strip of angle iron on the front of the front beach seat and set a piece of 3/4 plywood on the alluminum angle iron, would this hold well without bracing support to stand on? I weight approximately 220lbs. I have read some forums that this works well. I dont want to put a lot of holes in a brand new jon boat if I can help it. But...I will if I have to.
No. You will need some longitudinal structure in there. 3 2 x 4s, one on each side, and one in the middle will likely be just dandy. Or, aluminum tubing if it fits the budget. (I'm an alumaholic :lol: )

That will also allow you to put some hatch lids in, so you don't waste all the space under the deck.

I hear you on not wanting to drill holes in a new boat. But, you could attach the 2 x 4s or tubing to the same piece of aluminum you mentioned before (just mounted a little lower) so the amount of holes would be about the same.

Good point...I will probably go with alluminum. Might as well do it right the first time. I was looking on line. That aluminum is expensive around $9.00 a foot! Is there a good website you use to order aluminum or do you have a place you buy it?
 
Guy, I bought most of my aluminum from the link below. He has an ever changing stock and will work with you on what you need through email. He also lists auctions on e-bay from which I have gotten some really good prices. One time I got 5-4 ft. pieces of 1 X 1 X 1/8 square tube for $27 plus shipping. I was in no rush so over a period of a few weeks and checking ebay daily I was able to save a few bucks. He will also combine multiple buys into one shipment to save you a few bucks.

https://stores.shop.ebay.com/TRINITY-METAL-SALES__W0QQ_armrsZ1QQ_fsubZ0QQ_sasiZ1
 
Check your local scrapyard to see if you can buy used stuff. Sometimes they have various things to sell, and aluminum, when bought in what is known as surplus (secondhand from the scrapyard) is at the lowest price I have seen it in a LONG time.
 

Latest posts

Top