1436 and Decked out

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who pooted?

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History: I bought this 1436 boat, trailer, and 69 model evinrude 9.5 (no longer have that motor, now I have an 18hp motor) for $250 about a year ago from an old man that my friend worked with in the quarry's. The boats i.d. tag is gone so I have no idea what year/make it is. The old man said he bought it new back in 65, but can't remember the make. It sat in his field for about 6 years and to my surprise it didn't leak a bit. I've had the boat for about 2 years. I built a front deck on it from treated lumber and it looked great. I needed the deck b/c I usually fished alone and desperately needed the weight to keep the front end down. Now I've decided to go all alum. So here's the first step- removing the old wood in the transom and putting new marine grade and painting it with some industrial paint. Lucky for me I manage a paint store so no searching for this stuff.
Here's some pics of the boat:Boat Pics 002.jpgBoat Pics 010.jpgBoat Pics 012.jpgBoat Pics 014.jpg
 
Rephrase that first sentence b/c I contradict myself later. It should've read "I bought this boat about 2 years ago.
 
That is what mine looked like about 60 days ago. It was really not that hard to build out...Clarkster 2000 helped alot as this was my first build. You can crush this project if you have a spare week lying around somewhere. Just need to have the items in hand to get going. I wanted to use aluminum, but man would that have added a ton of money to the project. Maybe my next one though.

Good luck on the project and if you need anything, go to my post as I basically put it all down if you have questions.

Have fun with it, as it was one of the most rewarding things I have done in some time.
 
Just got done cuttin out the new transom, but I'll be damned if i'm not 2 bolts short to get er done. I also need to buy some marine silicone for all the bolts/holes etc. After the transom is bolted in I've got to go get a couple welds done on the top cross supports for the corners and a spot weld on the front of the boat. After that's done I'll start cutting the alum angle for the deck. Is it wrong that I feel pretty.....oh so pretty......! I'm giddy as a frickin school girl. You are right this is very rewarding so far.
Who Pooted?
 
Hey Macgyver I figured instead of the 3M I'd just use some old chewing gum, mesh tape, and scrap sheets of aluminum foil. HA HA I couldn't help myself with the hole Macgyver bit. I bought some of that 5200 and boy that stuff works quite well. **** hard to get it off your finger too! I just about had my fingernail permanently attached to my finger, apparently I didn't clean off to well and when i woke up in the morning that sucker was stuck down.
 
lol.. your killing me man , you forgot the bailing wire though.... :p

5200 is permanent, but in wet or below the waterline applications, I wouldn't use anything else. in areas not below the waterline or in non wet locations 4200 is good also , but not permanent so it can be removed.

I used 5200 on something on my glass boat and went to remove it . took pieces of fiberglass off with it ...
 
Macgyver said:
lol.. your killing me man , you forgot the bailing wire though.... :p

5200 is permanent, but in wet or below the waterline applications, I wouldn't use anything else. in areas not below the waterline or in non wet locations 4200 is good also , but not permanent so it can be removed.

I used 5200 on something on my glass boat and went to remove it . took pieces of fiberglass off with it ...

Can I use 4200 around my transom when I redo, or opt for the 5200?
 
Macgyver
I just got done getting the transom back in and bolting down my two handles on the back of my transom. All stainless steel w/nylock nuts. I still need to get a couple of welds done before it's complete. I'll have pictures to keep my project updated tomorrow. I put the 5200 anywhere a screw or bolt was located on my transom be it above or below the waterline. I sealed around the bolt/washers and also just covered the top of them as well. Them things are completely sealed! Hope I got it right with it being permanent and all. I guess that stuff has a similar hardness as JB Kwik? I talked to 3M to see if it was paintable and they said after it's fully cured. I meant to ask if it was sandable as well, b/c as I mentioned I got all the seams around any connection area and they could stand a little smoothing. Sure do wish it came in clear.
My original plan was to paint my boat in a camo pattern or just plain olive drab, but as I've sanded down the hull in some areas to bare aluminum I can't help being drawn to the shiny metal :shock: . Damned ADD! I'm almost considering just going back to bare shiny alum and maybe shining it up even more with some Mothers Polish. I just would worry about it getting a waterline on it do to the profiling from the sanding. Figured polish might help. Good thing is it will be stored in my garage and not sitting in water all the time.
I'm out-Adam
 
I got just about 75% of the boat sanded...er wire wheeled. Boy that has to be the funnest part of the build! I will say that using the wire wheel really does a good job plus it beat the heck out of hand sanding or chemical stripping. I'm going to camo my boat, and I wanted to know if anyone else had done theirs? Some pictures would be great or link to your build. I was hoping to do it without a kit. They are too expensive plus I've seen some nice ones done with leaves and fake plants bought from hobby stores. I plan on camo-ing (I just made up a word) the engine too. Here's some pics:
 

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Looking good! I hope sanding it down is the hardest part lol. That is one time consuming task. I only had 3 cup brushes (should have bought 5) but I got through it all with a few wires still intact. That handle probably is helpful. Keep up the good work and good luck!
 
Way to get the paint off.
I think theres stencils here,if I'm remembering correctly.
I'll do a search later to see what i can find.
Should be able to make one yourself either with cardboard stencils or laminate paper.
I've seen people do it with regular marsh grass and natural stuff,depends on the look your into.
 
Thanks for the help on the camo there ZUM. How's the weather up there in Nova Scotia? I guess you do mainly smallmouth/pike/muskelunge? I probably mispelled the last one.
 
who pooted? said:
Thanks for the help on the camo there ZUM. How's the weather up there in Nova Scotia? I guess you do mainly smallmouth/pike/muskelunge? I probably mispelled the last one.
Weather=crappy,atleast the last couple days,rain,wind warning...giving good after,for a week or so,10-14 degreessC
Mainly smallmouth and pickeral for me,theres trout,salmon,stripers,shad,all the ocean species etc.Theres no pike or musky here(took the easy spelling:)
 
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3226&hilit=camo+stencils
The top right of the page has a search engine,if you type camo in there lots of different boats will come up to give you ideas of what you might want.
https://www.duckhuntingchat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=72&t=88421
Theres also this,we have heard and seen mixed reveiws on this though;
https://www.camo4u.com/cgi-bin/edit/camo4u/camo4u/dbdata/qs?UserList=listings&UserKeys=boat+&M=10
This is my last one,I promise,might be the best info and job.
https://www.allmudmotors.com/blogs/how-to-do-it-yourself-and-more/622382-camo-paint-stencil-tips
 
ober51 said:
Macgyver said:
lol.. your killing me man , you forgot the bailing wire though.... :p

5200 is permanent, but in wet or below the waterline applications, I wouldn't use anything else. in areas not below the waterline or in non wet locations 4200 is good also , but not permanent so it can be removed.

I used 5200 on something on my glass boat and went to remove it . took pieces of fiberglass off with it ...

Can I use 4200 around my transom when I redo, or opt for the 5200?

sorry just got back to this thread. I'd use 5200 below the waterline and anything that is a permanent repair as you'll have loads of fun trying to get something off that's sealed with 5200 . if it is something you think you may take apart in the future then I'd use 4200.
 
who pooted? said:
Macgyver
I just got done getting the transom back in and bolting down my two handles on the back of my transom. All stainless steel w/nylock nuts. I still need to get a couple of welds done before it's complete. I'll have pictures to keep my project updated tomorrow. I put the 5200 anywhere a screw or bolt was located on my transom be it above or below the waterline. I sealed around the bolt/washers and also just covered the top of them as well. Them things are completely sealed! Hope I got it right with it being permanent and all. I guess that stuff has a similar hardness as JB Kwik? I talked to 3M to see if it was paintable and they said after it's fully cured. I meant to ask if it was sandable as well, b/c as I mentioned I got all the seams around any connection area and they could stand a little smoothing. Sure do wish it came in clear.
My original plan was to paint my boat in a camo pattern or just plain olive drab, but as I've sanded down the hull in some areas to bare aluminum I can't help being drawn to the shiny metal :shock: . Damned ADD! I'm almost considering just going back to bare shiny alum and maybe shining it up even more with some Mothers Polish. I just would worry about it getting a waterline on it do to the profiling from the sanding. Figured polish might help. Good thing is it will be stored in my garage and not sitting in water all the time.
I'm out-Adam


good deal .. sounds like it's coming along. my boat isn't painted either and I'm thinking of polishing it also .
 
ya, i'd paint the camo, if that's the route you want to take. I've seen to many of the camo vinyl kits peel off on 4 wheelers and other things.
 

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