How to tell a deepV from a shallow, What is this, Good Deal?

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michiganman18

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Ive always kinda just gone by look. Is there a specific way to tell. b/c some people have listed on CL deep V's that are just semi-V... so i was wondering if or where you measure at.
 
It has everything to do with transom deadrise. I think the magic number is 20 degrees or so. Less than 20 degrees is a semi vee, more is a deep vee. A jon is obvious, and a mod vee is obvious (jon with deadrise, but not a traditional "vee" style).
 
bassboy1 said:
It has everything to do with transom deadrise. I think the magic number is 20 degrees or so. Less than 20 degrees is a semi vee, more is a deep vee. A jon is obvious, and a mod vee is obvious (jon with deadrise, but not a traditional "vee" style).

Is it possible to provide an example for those of us that need to see it rather than read it? Thanks!
 
Here ya go guys. Heres a pic of what im talking about not sure whether its a Deep or shallow. Its selling for 600.00 14 of 15ft'r Fish finder. and 15Hp evenrude w/ tank and a broken pull starter. That is w/o trailer. im looking to upgrade my boat not trailer. And i have the option for a 20HP chrysler with charger and elec start for 400.00 Chrysler is from early 70's. Im not liking the black paint. I dont want to scrape paint but if he'd go down any more maybe to 400.00 b/c that motor has green paint all over it too. And i dont need expensive stuff but i like it to look nice. Let me know what ya'll think. Tansom is 54 inches wide at bottom. Any Pros? Any Cons?
 

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The slope of the hull from the center to the sides is what makes it what it is.A deep V has rise of 20 degrees from center to the sides measured at the transom.A semi V (which is what the V hulls are on this site) is between 10 and 18 degrees.A mod V (which is common on here) has a nearly flat bottom at the transom.Most are less than 5 degrees from center to sides.

https://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/ship/deep-v-hull.htm

https://www.tropicalboating.com/powerboating/deadrise-hull-angle.html

I know of no other way to explain it.I can't find pics except on here.

Semi V https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7660

Mod V https://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,482,00.html
 
Thanks for clarifying it was much more clear it made sense.
as for what type of fishing boatis best i think it depends on the aplication. If they were more of them and less pricey i would get a modified V for sure!
Now what about the package vs the motor. Only room in the pocket for one new toy... :/
 
michiganman18 said:
Here ya go guys. Heres a pic of what im talking about not sure whether its a Deep or shallow. Its selling for 600.00 14 of 15ft'r Fish finder. and 15Hp evenrude w/ tank and a broken pull starter. That is w/o trailer. im looking to upgrade my boat not trailer. And i have the option for a 20HP chrysler with charger and elec start for 400.00 Chrysler is from early 70's. Im not liking the black paint. I dont want to scrape paint but if he'd go down any more maybe to 400.00 b/c that motor has green paint all over it too. And i dont need expensive stuff but i like it to look nice. Let me know what ya'll think. Tansom is 54 inches wide at bottom. Any Pros? Any Cons?


That is a semi V and is fairly stable and good in a chop.I think the 20HP is a good deal.$600 is a fair deal but I'd try to haggle a little.You may get your money back by selling the Evenrude.


ober51 said:
That diagram really helps, thank you. So which one is best?

When it comes to jon boats there are some things to consider.The area of use,wind,and waves.

flat bottom jon=stable/bad in waves or rough water/40 inch or wider good for decks/use in calm rivers,small lakes,ponds

mod V(AKA modified V)= a little less stable/good in light chop/most are wide enough to deck/use fast flowing choppy rivers,larger lakes,rivers, and ponds

semi V = even less stable stable/good in rough water and white caps/keep decks low over 40inches wide,under 40 inches is usually to tippy for decks/use in rivers,lakes,ponds,rough water and small swells,keep weight low in hull

Deep V= stable but is usually used on large and wide boats/good in rough water and small swells/most have fishing decks/use in most any waters and conditions

This is just a general description of the boats and uses.Always keep to the safety limits and weight limits of your boat.
 
There is no one best hull type. If there were, it would be the only hull style in existence as nobody would buy anything other.

Deep Vees: Much better rough water capabilities. The hull shape allows them to slice through rough water better than bouncing over it. But, deep vees need to be heavy to work correctly, so most deep vee tinnies aren't really all that. For a real nice deep vee, a 3/16 - 5/16 plate hull is desirable (3/16 is most common for smaller ones, say under 22 feet or so - which is what the hull of the one I plan on building will be). Also, deep vees are not as stable at rest. And, they need more horsepower to propel them at the same speed as a similar size hull of a different style.

Semi vees: More stable than a deep vee of the same dimensions. Takes less horsepower to propel at equal speeds. Some rough water capabilities, but not much.

Mod vees: Stability is almost that of a jon, with slightly better rough water capabilities, and better handling at speed. More interior space than a semi vee.
 
michiganman18 said:
Any suggestions on boat or motor?
I would stay away from the Chrysler at all costs.

As far as that boat, that price is not a "grab the truck and get over there to buy it as fast as you can because it will be gone quick" sort of deal, but it isn't that bad for that. Not really sure about the discoloration on the motor, but if everything but the recoil starter checks out, and it doesn't look abused, that 15 Evinrude is a mighty fine motor.
 
Why do people hate Chrysler. Its seems like with Chevy and Ford they either hate or love. I think that the motor is the better deal. b/c its a 20HP and has the electric start and charger. Both people i have dealt with before and both know their outboards. Say that they both never left them stranded and always reliable plus one of them he just paid to have it a marina go over it.
 
Well, while the comparison between a Yamaha and an Evinrude may be under the Ford vs. Chevy Debate, the Evinrude compared to the Chrysler would be classified as a Chevy vs. Yugo debate. See where I am getting at here?

They have notorious design flaws, and a nonexistent parts base. They are just known for being the king of unreliability.

Now may be a good time for this comment. Yes, I am indeed Johnson/Evinrude guy. Partly because when I first got into outboards, I was in need of something cheap and reliable to fish with. When I was first looking at outboards, I soon came to the conclusion that the Johnson/Evinrudes are the most reliable even from decades back, and the easiest to work on/best design, and longest continuation of the same part on motors even decades apart, all while staying at the top of the modern technology for the time.

Thus, when I kept buying more and more outboards, I just kept with the brands I was most familiar with, and still consider them the best, as none other have motors dating back so far that are still considered reliable enough to use as a main motor.

The foreign brands (Yamaha, Honda, Suziki, Nissan, Tohatsu) all make fine motors. But, they are generally more costly, and don't date back so far, so they aren't at the top of my list.

The Mercury/Mariners, way back when, were awful. Not known for reliability, and incredibly hard to fix (but they were incredibly fast). Water pump impeller replacement on many of them involved taking off the powerhead. The real new ones I personally would avoid, as I would with any boat made by Brunswick, due my feeling that they don't pay enough attention to quality control these days, and there smaller motors are a bit behind on technology. There isn't much wrong with the mid age (think 80s) mercs, but I tend to just avoid them all.

The Chrysler/Force motors were badly designed, and have few reproduction parts, so getting parts is real tough. They are not exactly known for reliability.

Now, all of these comments, aside from the one about Brunswick, are for motors 15 years old or more, as that is mostly what I deal with. Only time will tell how well the new motors really are, and we haven't had enough time to tell for most.
 
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