The boat~new photos

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YamahaC40Guy

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Well, finally got some new photos of the boat yesterday. They always look better when in the water, so here goes;

First off, the boat at the dock. This shot shows all the changes~rear deck, trolling motor and rod rack;

SilverBullet1.jpg


Next, the bow. I built a plate from marine ply, bolted it to the front. TO that, I bolted a Minn Kota quick release plate and then the motor itself. The socket for plugging it in is screwed to the bottom of this, facing the stern of course. Also visible is the anchor pulley/bracket. There was a thread about these lately. I really like it, but would change one thing about the way I mounted it. They require that you pull the rope straight back as it turns out. On my boat, to do that, you need to be kneeling on the front deck. To stand and do it, you have to pull back at about knee-level. I may make a ramp-like bracket to mount it to, so that it angles down towards the water. This would (should) alleviate the problem. Very robust thing for it's size/price;

TMnavLIGHTS.jpg


I had to remove the nav. lights from the bow, and replace them with these separate, side-mounted jobs. At $48 each (CAD$) that hurt a little. Anyhow, I had to get the power from deck level up to the nose, and found a cool way to do it. (I think, lol) Here is a photo of my new Richter anchor. Love this thing BTW. https://www.richteranchors.com/ In it, you can see an opaque tube running up the side just past it. This flat/plastic tube came off my old dishwasher. It is bolted to the side, on rubber stand-offs to prevent any buzzing/rattling sound. As a good deal of power is running up from the stern to power the MK, I wanted it protected from the anchor. This worked great, and was free. Even the color matched, calcium stains and all! lol;

RichterAnchor.jpg


Next, the rear casting deck;

RearDeck.jpg


If you remember my original post, is shows the boat without it;

BoatKashagawigamogLake.jpg


Well, the idea was to extend the rear bench forward to allow for the 2-battery 24 volt system. I designed/fabricated HDPP (High Density Polypropylene) panels that mirror the shape of the bench, then had 2 stainless steel battery trays fabricated. These are bolted between them. The top is a pc. of marine ply. that has been finished with some mystery coating that is supposed to be weather-proof. (we'll see, lol) I trusted a finisher I know~so far so good. It is screwed in place. All hardware SS.

This is a front/port view of it. You can see the battery trays through the material, latches are anti-vibration rubber;
HatchCLOSEup.jpg


Both hatches open;

SilverBullet2.jpg


Close-up of the left side. Tackle trays, charger, MK circuit breaker and Minn Kota foot pedal all packed in there;

HatchCLOSEup2.jpg


Lastly, the rod rack. I bought 2 packs of those Berkley rod racks, and cut a bracket to take 2 of the bottoms, and one of the upper, locking pcs. They were wider than my console was deep, so you can see how I dealt with that. Also, the "T" shape cut out of it is to simply reduce weight. The HDPP is heavy stuff! It holds any of my spinning, or fly rods.

SilverBulletRodRack.jpg


Thanks for looking and please, if you have any input/ideas...fire away! I'm in this to learn!

Cheers,
Rob
 
From last week, working back..(but all from this spring) The perch is my wife's fish....but she was in the boat!!! lol

PERCH.jpg


BIGcrappie.jpg


ScugogCrappie.jpg


A pair of whitefish...

whitefish.jpg


A wild lake trout (and my mug, lol)

Laker3.jpg


A close-up

Laker4.jpg


It's been a good year so far!
Cheers,
Rob
 
What kind of camera are you using?? Those are some of the most crisp pictures I have ever seen...

if only I could talk Tiffany into letting me take her Canon SLR out... that'll never happen
 
Hey guys~thanks for the kind words. It's great to get feedback from guys who share the same passion, it means allot. I'll probably have this boat forever, or until I can find an affordable 20' Lund Alaskan side console....so keep your eyes peeled! lol I'm very pleased with the results and, aside from POSSIBLY adding a downrigger, I think I may be done.

The photos~I think this boat has some excellent fish Karma! :wink: I shoot with a Nikon D70S (digital SLR) that has a polarized filter and a fill flash. The filter/flash are critical to getting good fishing photos, in my opinion.
 
Ok... you're talking camera talk which I leave to my wife... she's not going to let me take her SLR out so I'll just stick with the point and shoot camera I have. It takes pretty good pics... maybe I should look into getting a polarized filter and fill flash for mine (if they make them for Fuji S5000 cameras)
 
That back bench idea is just what I was looking for - you dont happen to have any more detailed pics of that before it was covered do you?
 
hey Daniel~by "covered"..do you mean the lid, or all the carpet? I don't have detailed photos but would be happy to answer any questions you might have. I can post a simple drawing of what I did if that helps?
 
russ010 said:
What kind of camera are you using?? Those are some of the most crisp pictures I have ever seen...

if only I could talk Tiffany into letting me take her Canon SLR out... that'll never happen

Waterproof case and floating strap, great investment.
 
Nice work on the boat! Hope to get mine up to that standard by next season. Just want to get it out and have fun with it this year. I will do some of the work through the season this year, but plan on painting it durring the winter and then doing the deck and carpet after that.
 
Nice job! Very clean looking. Is there much of a weight or cost difference between plywood panels & the high density plastic that you used? The plastic has a couple of obvious advantages.
 
Marine ply and the HDPP are both pricey (at least they are around here)~I used the ply where I wanted to use marine-grade carpet, and the plastic everywhere else. I used an exterior grade adhesive, and pneumatic staple guns to secure it. Stapes were kept where toes would never connect~the underside and inside edges.

I also found that, to do the carpet neatly, you couldn't just slap it down, and wonder (after) what would happen when you hit a corner or radius. I used scraps to test first, cut from that where necessary to get a good result, then trace/cut that onto the actual pc. of carpet. A bit tedius, but no surprises.

Rob
 

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