Setting up your trailer for your boat

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TJBrown

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I have always hauled my boat in the back of the truck but with the planned Decking coming up, i decided i needed a trailer. I was wanting to get some advise on how where the boat should ride and what not. Basically get some of the "I would do this" or "What ever you do, dont do this" type of stuff. The boat is a 1436 and the Trailer is a 14'-15' mcclain's from Academy Sports.

Thanks
 
Make sure that the bunk boards are at least even with the transom when loaded or extending past an inch or so would be even better.

If the bunks are short, it will hook your hull while bouncing down the road.. which doesn't really matter if it is just a pond boat with no outboard but it will hurt performance otherwise.
 
Make sure
Quackrstackr said:
Make sure that the bunk boards are at least even with the transom when loaded or extending past an inch or so would be even better.

If the bunks are short, it will hook your hull while bouncing down the road.. which doesn't really matter if it is just a pond boat with no outboard but it will hurt performance otherwise.

x2. Also make sure the bunks are set at the correct width so the boat does not rest on the ribs, rather on the flat. If the trailer doesn't have guide bunks ratchet the rear of the boat down.
 
A question about the hull hook problem...

My bunks don't to all the way to my transom. They end about 6 or 8" forward of the transom. My boat is a 2004 model and I am the 2nd owner. If this boat has been carried around like that on this trailer for the past 4 or 5 years, does that mean that I likely have this problem? If so, is there a way to correct it? Will I be able to look at my hull and tell if my hull is 'hooked'?

Thanks!!
 
Quick check is to lower the tongue and place two jackstands at the rear hull corners then jack the tongue up to lift the boat off the bunks and eyeball the bottom of the hull. Shouldn't be an issue on a newer lighter boat, but the old tinfoil boats would do it pretty quick.

Jamie
 
Alumifisher said:
A question about the hull hook problem...

My bunks don't to all the way to my transom. They end about 6 or 8" forward of the transom. My boat is a 2004 model and I am the 2nd owner. If this boat has been carried around like that on this trailer for the past 4 or 5 years, does that mean that I likely have this problem? If so, is there a way to correct it? Will I be able to look at my hull and tell if my hull is 'hooked'?

Thanks!!
I wouldn't worry about it, and just extend the bunks to keep from any further damage. You can check for a hooked hull with a long straight edge down the keel, but fixing it isn't practical, so if you don't look at it, you can give it the benefit of the doubt as to it not being bent, but if you do check it, and find it is hooked, you will fret about it for months.


To the original question, on jon boats, I find that longer bunks make it easier for loading. Not only should they extend to or past the transom, but I found that on a 14 foot boat, 8 - 10 foot bunks make it load so much easier than 4 foot bunks and the little block or roller that a lot of trailers have.
 
You can generally get the hook out by going slow with a 2x4 and a hammer from the inside (if you can get to it).

Sometimes a hooked hull is a good thing for max performance but on the flip side, it may be bad and negativley affect speed, planing and handling.
 
Alumifisher said:
A question about the hull hook problem...

My bunks don't to all the way to my transom. They end about 6 or 8" forward of the transom. My boat is a 2004 model and I am the 2nd owner. If this boat has been carried around like that on this trailer for the past 4 or 5 years, does that mean that I likely have this problem? If so, is there a way to correct it? Will I be able to look at my hull and tell if my hull is 'hooked'?

Thanks!!


Hooked hull causes porpoising at speed.This can be dangerous.If your boat doesn't have problems with the bow going up and down uncontrollably,like a porpoise jump out of the water,I wouldn't worry about it.Just slide the boat forward on the trailer if possible.Hull hook is the caving in of the hull at the transom.A straight edge running fore and aft will tell the tale.
 
When I built out my trailer, I made my bunks 9' long holding up a 14' boat. They extend 2" or 3" past the transom. They set just outside the two outermost ribs in the floor.
 

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ben2go said:
Keep the bunks and boat as low down on the trailer as possible and you will not have to back down the ramp as far to launch.

that sounds like a good point.
 
TrackerTom said:
ben2go said:
Keep the bunks and boat as low down on the trailer as possible and you will not have to back down the ramp as far to launch.

that sounds like a good point.
Yep. On trailers with flat crossbars under, like the Continental someone posted a few posts up, under flat bottom boats, I forgo any sort of brackets, and bolt the bunk straight to the frame with a couple countersunk carriage bolts. A 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 laying flat gets you as low as you can safely go.
 
Bassboy, I'm the guy with the Continental above. Do you think I made a mistake setting up my trailer with the bunks that high? I haven't tried launching yet, as I am still working on the boat. I have mounted winch and bow stop, and was starting to build side guide on's. If I'm going to regret bunks that high I should change now before I go any farther. By removing mounts I would lower the bunks about 3". Is that difference worth the work (going backwards on the build)? You guys have more experience in these things than me, so I will listen to your recommendations.Thanks
 
fullmoon said:
Bassboy, I'm the guy with the Continental above. Do you think I made a mistake setting up my trailer with the bunks that high? I haven't tried launching yet, as I am still working on the boat. I have mounted winch and bow stop, and was starting to build side guide on's. If I'm going to regret bunks that high I should change now before I go any farther. By removing mounts I would lower the bunks about 3". Is that difference worth the work (going backwards on the build)? You guys have more experience in these things than me, so I will listen to your recommendations.Thanks
I don't know if it should be considered a mistake until you can recognize a problem. Since it's already installed, I would take it to the ramp first and see how it does. As far as 3" goes, because I can't powerload my boat (electric only) 3" is a big deal. Not to mention, it looks like you doubled up your 2 x 4 which added another 1.5". I am in the process of installing my bunks, and have taken bassboy's suggestion of eliminating the same brackets you have used and will use some spacers instead. Yesterday was a great example, almost everyone had to get wet to load their boats at the particular ramp we were at. Having the bunks lowere would have been helpful. I'll have pics of mine possibly today after I am done.
 
3 inches is alot...I'm considering lowering mine around an inch,ever little bit helps at times,atleast where I launch.I'm just to lazy to jack up my boat so I can get the trailer from under her.
 
I am second guessing my design now. I'm going to take your advice and try a launch and see how it does before I go any farther on the trailer. Any body need any bunk supports, never been in the water?? :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 

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