1956 Evinrude Lark 30 HP Tear down

Largely unimportant motor news update...I used my fathers day privilege to work out in the garage and FINALLY get a couple of motor stands built (one for the Lark, and one for my '57 Evinrude Sportwin 10HP).  I built them a little taller than the plans called for to give me easier access to work on them without bending over at funny angles; it also gave me enough vertical clearance that I should (knock on wood) be able to drop the lower unit without too much of a fight (but that's a project for another day).  After I finished cleaning up my mess in the garage, in order to get the wife's car back in the garage, I grabbed a screwdriver and pulled the oil plug on the lower unit...unfortunately, just oil residue. Otherwise it was dry as a bone.  So once I have decent access to my work bench I will start tearing into this thing for real!

Most likely the oil just leaked out over time.

I just rebuilt a friends 68 9.5 and was unimpressed with the way the lower units on these motors seal.

It was also completely empty.

Looking good. Lock the motor down on the stand then tilt it all the way forward to make working on the lower end easier.... you might need to weigh down the stand so it won't tip forward.

Well Shaugh, clamping it down is a bit of an issue right now as both clamps are seized, but I'm working on that. I did take the time this afternoon to pull the cylinder head again and take a look...it's not pretty...nearly 100% certain this was an over heating situation.

I don’t see anything terminal. Looks fairly normal actually.

You’ve had penetrating oil on those clamps and they’re still frozen? That thing must have sat for years. Soak the pistons, clamps and pivots down with liquid wrench and get it loosened up.

The bathing procedure I described will also help.

That is encouraging to hear! I have sprayed some WD-40 Penetrating Oil on it a couple of times but haven't made a real concerted effort to get them loosened up yet. When I do get them loosened and the motor secured what is the process I need to do to drop the lower unit and gear case? I am having trouble locating my Clymer guide and even with it, I find it hard to read beacuse it's trying to explain the process of 10 slightly different motor's simultaneously.

Edit:...I found my Clymer guide

Youtube is by far your best resource... multiple videos on almost everything you're going to do.

This guy's 18 part video from start to finish is a good one.. It's a later 18hp but your motor is completely similar.

Gearcase removal:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcjx_qd2TuM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwiWDhW_nPY

Thanks for the video links Shaugh...I will be reviewing them frequently!

So I was able to get in a little wrench time on the Lark this afternoon and I am starting the process of stripping the powerhead for disassembly (not ready for the lower unit yet...nowhere it put it).  I still don't have a great work space but I have a little room to work.  I pulled the starter (had to drop the cam on the flywheel to get to the bolt), and put a flywheel puller on the flywheel.  Does anyone have any tips for getting this 65 year old flywheel off this motor??  I have the puller on, and it is tightened down and under pressure but it will not budge!  it's bending the washers on the bolts before any movement on the flywheel.  I have tapped on the center bolt of the puller with a hammer, I have pried up with a flat-head, I have done both simultaneously, I have put loads of penetrating oil on the shaft...nothing!  I have it under load for the night, we'll see if anything changes by tomorrow. I think I may need to get shorter bolts for the puller and extra washers to keep them from bending so badly.

I also pulled the access panels on the cylinders again and actually got a look down in the crank case...it is surprisingly and pleasantly clean and rust free!  Any help on the stubborn flywheel is appreciated! 

I use a propane torch to heat the flywheel around the shaft. Don't heat the shaft. Apply the heat in a circle around the shaft about 1 1/2 inches out from center. This will allow the flywheel to expand a bit and break loose, especially with tension on the puller.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Sometimes it can be difficult... If you have a compressor and impact gun it usually surrenders easily... double up your washers and keep on turning... it will pop eventually... does the flywheel want to spin ? Heat can help, but you will need to turn the ratchet .... harder than you want to...

Be ready for the "POP"! :LOL2:

Pappy, I wish i would’ve read this before...I went back and tried it again with the new shorter bolts and sure enough...one of the bolts popped and pulled the threads with it. I lucked out however, I didn’t have them screwed in all that far so it only pulled out the top 1/3 or so. I put the original bolt back in to check the threads and it still closes just fine...I got lucky! I will be taking it to an outboard shop to get it off at some point.

Piomarine,
This should be something you can do at home. It's just a little difficult on some motors that have sat a long time. The puller needs to have grade 8 bolts. Check that first. Then put double washers under the head and don't worry about a little bending... all pullers look like that.

When you screw the bolts in make sure they go all the way to the bottom of the flywheel threading... about 3/4" screwed in. Make sure all the bolts are threaded in the same amount. Then tighten the puller to the point where it seems like you're at the limit and smack the top like Pappy suggested. If it didn't work try it again... tighten... smack.... You shouldn't worry that something is going to explode or create a dangerous situation... it will just pop... and stay right where it is...

Like I said if you have an air or electric impact gun... (like they use for tire lug nuts) the whole process is painless and quick... it's just that the socket wrench / hammer method is right at the max capability of those hand tools.

Shaugh, I did what you suggested and put heat and the impact gun on the puller. I did not get any movement in the flywheel and unfortunately it pulled the remaining threads out of the damaged hole. So now I am left with a flywheel that is still stuck but only 2 good mounting holes for the puller...I don’t know what to do now. I really don’t want to drill and tap a new hole but I don’t really see another option...

Tap the wheel the next size up...its okay. Just do not let the tap drill grab and feed into the coil below. When shocking the end of the puller have one hold up the wheel so there is some play on the crank thrust area below.

I guess I will be tapping a bigger hole...joy...

I have determined that it is the powerhead. The lower unit is off but it is still locked up. Kinda what I figured so no real surprise there. I also pulled the whole carb assembly and the front half of the engine housing base. Once I can get this God forsaken flywheel off I can pull the rest of the electrical system and finally get the powerhead off of the exhaust housing and really start getting things cleaned up.

Any chance you can rent/borrow a large 3 jaw puller?

Thats what I use and that flywheel looks substantial enough.

Several problems in those photos.

What do I need to do to correct these problems? Outside of buying an OMC puller (which probably won’t work now anyways with the stripped out threads) and which I can’t really afford right now anyways. I did everything you suggested, heat, steady pressure, let it rest, impact gun, etc. I’m at a loss and don’t want to do any more damage than I already have.