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when you take the reed block out, shine a light on the back side. no light should be seen around the reeds, they need to be flush with the "cage". if they arnt, gently bend them in. finding new ones or used reeds in better condition than yours is probably going to be tuff. reeds are like the valves on a 4stroke, they're supposed to open and close with vacuum on piston strokesI don't really know how it works
pull your carb off. blow threw the fuel nipple. you should be able to blow threwAm I going to have to take off the carb and clean that out too?
now flip the carb upside down gently, and blow threw the gas nipple (blow gently, only about 2psi). you shouldnt be able to blow threw. this means your float is set correctly and jets arnt blocked, though they still may have a restriction
the biggest problem i had with my motor was blowing them stupid designed pump fuel diaphrams
Like I said, I took off the carb and got it running. It fires up on the 1st or 2nd pull. I am afraid to run it too long without it being in some water. Here are some pictures of the motor. When I removed the bottom and drain the oil it looked like chocolate pudding... yuck. I removed the fill screw and filled it up to till it came out of the fill hole. I ran it really quick and looked down and saw muddy fluid leaking out of some of the holes... that normal?
ever feel like a worm on the end of a big hook?
I don't think I would worry about either of those dilemmas. The seal isn't your problem. Those are exhaust holes (on some motors, both for cooling water and exhaust - others just for exhaust - I'm not real familiar with eskas). Without looking at it closely, it could be one of two things. It could be merely mud from the cooling passages. If the motor was run in shallow water, and sucked up mud, it often dries during storage, and it took you running it to flush it out. Or, it could be unburned 2 stroke oil. Often times, carburated two strokes won't burn all the way at low RPM's, and will spit out what is left. Usually, it takes a little while for this to run all the way down, so it isn't noticeable until after the motor is shut off. Also, if your motor hasn't been used in a while, I imagine there is build up from old fuel residue, that could also exit at this point.VBTravisD wrote:
Ahhhhhh! I wonder how hard that seal is going to be to replace... or purchase even!?!?!
Those little holes are in no way connected to the lower end lube. Think about it - those holes are underwater, so if they were connected to the gear lube, it would leak out, and replace with water. You have to have a heavily cracked gearcase housing to see gear lube out of those - I personally have never seen that, as they don't usually crack up there, but further down, instead.
One interesting tidbit about those motors is they are both air and water cooled. A "conventional" outboard circulates lake water through the entire powerhead for cooling. On your motor, the powerhead is air cooled, much like a lawnmower. The exhaust housing is water cooled. Your motor will have a very similar water pump as a conventional motor, but instead of circulating through the whole motor, it merely runs through the midsection, cooling the exhaust passage. You shouldn't run that (or any) outboard out of water. While it won't overheat the motor in the short time you run it, you very likely will melt the little rubber impeller. Mere seconds can toast one of those.
Alright, I see what your saying now. You mentioned "main shaft." I read it as "prop shaft." My apologies there.1436delta wrote:THE MAIN SHAFT FROM THE ENGINE TO THE LOWER UNIT HAS A SEAL THAT SEALS LOWER UNIT OIL IN THE CASE IF THAT SEAL IS BAD IT WILL COME OUT OF THESE HOLE
As mentioned, I'm not an Eska guy - just happened to know that little tidbit from an Eska 7 hp I almost bought earlier in the year. Just for kicks and giggles, I did the research, and found that some Eska motors didn't have a pump, just a tube that stuck into the water, and used the boats speed to push water up the motor. From the pictures I found, that motor looks like ones I've seen with a pump.DO THE RESEARCH I DONT THINK A 7 HP HAS A PUMP
Without being there to touch, smell, taste the leakage, etc, it is impossible for me to tell what it is. I'm still doubtful as to the idea that the oil is gear lube, especially when it was pointed out that the motor was not run in water. I could be wrong. But, that looks much more like crud that would come out of a motors powerhead after sitting, than brand new gear lube.
With the color of the oil that is coming out it looks like it has been mixed with water. Is that common? Also if the seal was bad there would not be the light color oil right. I have a small evinrude that seeps out where the lower unit comes together and it is the dark color, I thought that my problem was the seal.
Here is a picture of unburned gas/oil/carbon exiting out on a 1988 Evinrude 4 deluxe.hamar507 wrote:With the color of the oil that is coming out it looks like it has been mixed with water. Is that common? Also if the seal was bad there would not be the light color oil right. I have a small evinrude that seeps out where the lower unit comes together and it is the dark color, I thought that my problem was the seal.
Clearly looks like something to worry about, but in reality, it is nothing.
Sorry, I with held info. I did stick it in a big trashcan I filled with water and ran it once... The fluid is fuel with a bit of mud in it.bassboy1 wrote:Without being there to touch, smell, taste the leakage, etc, it is impossible for me to tell what it is. I'm still doubtful as to the idea that the oil is gear lube, especially when it was pointed out that the motor was not run in water. I could be wrong. But, that looks much more like crud that would come out of a motors powerhead after sitting, than brand new gear lube.
ever feel like a worm on the end of a big hook?
Then, it is a good thing it is coming out, not bad. It is merely cleaning out the insides. A good decarb with Seafoam, or just mixing some seafoam in with each tank will be beneficial.VBTravisD wrote:
The fluid is fuel with a bit of mud in it.
sounds like a good deal but if the only problem is the shifter handle then i cant figure out y it woud only be 100$ sounds fishy make sure you hear it run before you buy it and you could use vice grips as a temporary solution for the shifter handle if you buy it
aint no stoppin once the deer start droppin
I know he went with the Eska, but I have to remark on the GameFisher. I owned a 15 horse for ten years never having a problem. They are good motors as long as you take care of them. They are getting harder to find parts for but not impossible.
Hold my beer and watch this.