fuel tank suggestion

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jovush

Active member
Joined
Jul 4, 2010
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Location
SouthWest, MO
I'm so new to boating I haven't even tried to start the old Johnson. 1966 20 hp. My question is can someone recommend a new fuel tank to replace the old dual line that was used as a single? I don't want to use this because motor wasn't started in 2 years. Received the Bass Pro flier in the mail today and it has a 6 gallon Moeller for $28.99. Is this a good tank? Good price? Can I even use this on my motor?
 
Try walmart I think their 6 gal tank is $16 or $19. You can also get a new fuel line and bulb, connectors and hose clamps there.
 
Local Academy will have what you need.(It's funny the price of the tank and hose was each about $5.00 cheaper at Academy than WalMart....Wally World is losing there touch)

Fuel tank:(tank is universal, so you will have to get an fuel fitting)

https://www.academy.com/index.php?page=content&target=products/outdoors/marine/fuel_containers&start=8&selectedSKU=0103-40485-1106 (click this link)

fuel tank adaptor (picture)

0772681.jpg


Fuel line with connectors (those connectors are the correct ones for your motor). Fuel bulb connects to tank and there is a line on the bulb that points to direction of the flow fuel to the tank.

https://www.academy.com/index.php?page=content&target=products/outdoors/marine/outboard_accessories&start=0&selectedSKU=0148-00165-9367 (click this link)

Marine 2 cycle oil TCW-3 type (your choice on the brand) ....just make sure it is TWC-3 Marine 2cycle oil (The stuff for chain saws and weedeaters is not acceptable)


You must mix your oil and fuel together. Your motor is a 2cycle and does not have a oil reservoir like the 4 cycle engines.(lawner mower type)

Fuel to oil ratio is 50:1 (Never run your motor on straight gas...you will burn up your motor, it needs the oil to lubricate the cylinders, pistons, rings, etc...)

Basically 1 gallon of gas and 2.67 ounces of TWC-3 Marine 2 cycle oil

3 gallons of gas(87oct) and 8 ounces of TWC-3 Marine 2 cycle oil

6 gallons of gas(87oct) and 16 ounces of TWC-3 Marine 2 cycle oil

Mix up the oil and gas well in the tank.

Connect the hose to the tank and then to the motor. (Make sure the bulb portion is connected to the tank and squeeze it until it is somewhat firm)

Your tank has a vent screw (open it up while the motor is running and close it when transporting and storing. Please don't forget to open up the vent when running the motor or outboard will run poorly.

Going to supply a quote from a mechanic about checking out your outboard.

Awakening a Sleeping Outboard by JB
Frequently Asked Question (FAQ): I got this motor and it hasn’t been run in several years. What do I need to do to get it going?

I see a lot of posts from folks who have a motor that has been in storage, belonged to their dad or granddad, or for another reason, hasn’t been started for quite some time. It occurred to me that this would be a good topic for a FAQ. I recently went through most of these steps myself in preparing a motor which hadn’t been used for 15 years. Following is an attempt to provide a concise list of steps, an expanded bullet-list if you will, that have been suggested by the many experts on this forum to prepare that motor for the water.

First get yourself a manual, there is a ton of help on this board but to be fair, and so that you can learn, a reference book is a must. They can be found for sale on many sites, a few of which are kencook.com, marineengine.com theoutboardwizard.bizhosting.com, maxrules.com, and iboats.com. Although some folks use Seloc or Clymer manuals, they cover a range of engines and sometimes details are omitted. The reprints of the original OMC manuals are the most specific to your particular engine. Get one of them.

If any steps prove challenging or if there are questions about any of the processes, post a question in the applicable forum here at iboats using the red "search" selection at the top of each forum. You will receive an answer from one or more of the many experienced veterans here.

Let’s get started.

Lower Unit – Remove the prop and any fishing line that may be tangled, wound around the prop shaft. If the shaft is splined, apply a coat of marine bearing grease to it before re-installing the prop. If an inspection of the prop indicates any damage that could cause a vibration or imbalance, replace it or have it repaired. The rubber bushing securing the hub to the prop itself may also need replacing, but that probably cannot be determined until boat-tested.

Remove the drain screw (bottom) from the lower unit and observe the quality of the lube as it exits. If it is milky, there has been water intrusion. If you observe metal shards, there may be gear damage requiring a re-build of the lower unit. If it is empty, there may be other problems. Remove the vent screw (top screw) to allow complete draining. If none of the above mentioned situations exists, fill with lube from the bottom screw hole until lube emerges from the vent hole. Lube should be available from any oil outlet and labeled as suitable for outboard lower units.

Note: Electric shift lower units require different lube than manual shift units. Check your manual.

After unit has been filled, replace vent screw using an appropriate new screw-head gasket. Then do the same for the fill screw, trying to prevent as little loss of lube as possible.

Water Pump – Using your manual as a reference, replace the water pump – if not the complete pump, by all means replace the rubber impeller. This is absolutely necessary on motors of unknown history or on motors that haven’t had a new one in a couple of years. Before re-assembling mid-section (lower leg), see next step.

Cylinder Walls – If not already, lay the motor so the sparkplugs are up. Remove them and put in a few squirts from an oil can filled with TCW-3 oil. Move the engine around so that the oil will contact cylinder walls. Allow it to soak for a day or two. By hand, rotate the flywheel a couple of times. If it resists rotating, allow to soak longer. When flywheel finally rotates freely, install new sparkplugs.

Spark – Pull the plug wires from the sparkplugs. Your spark should jump a minimum of a 3/8" gap with a hot thick spark. If it doesn’t, you need maintenance on the ignition system. Check the sparkplug cables for cracked insulation. Otherwise, the needed maintenance will be determined by type and year of motor you’re working on. Refer to your manual. Replace the spark plugs with the manufacturer's recommended plugs, keeping the old ones as spares.

Wiring – Check all engine wiring for brittle insulation or fraying. This would necessitate re-wiring or installation of a new wiring harness.

Lubrication – Lube all moving parts including throttle linkage (white lithium) and steering shaft (chassis lube is OK).


Carburetors – Remove and disassemble carburetor(s). Soak in carb. cleaner or spray with aerosol carb. cleaner, paying particular attention to all small passages and fuel-ways. Blow dry with compressed air, again, paying particular attention to internal passages. Reassemble using an appropriate carburetor rebuild kit. If kit doesn't include a new needle and seat, get one. If the float is cork, replace it with a plastic one. Some kits include them. If the float is plastic, make sure the integrity has not been compromised. Re-install and link and sync according to your manual. Replace all under-cowl fuel lines.

Fuel pump – Using your manual as reference, remove fuel pump and clean metal parts with carb. cleaner. Install a new fuel pump kit, or replace fuel pump entirely. Replace fuel filter and any vacuum hoses that may be connected.

Fuel tank – Replace the fuel line along with the squeeze bulb (OEM bulb preferred). Note: on dual-line tank, there is no squeeze bulb. Drain fuel tank. With a flashlight, inspect for dirt, debris, or rust. If OK, rinse and refill with correct fuel/oil mix. If there are quick release connectors on the fuel lines, check the small o-rings at either end. Replace if necessary.

Controls - If remote control, check throttle and gearshift cables for proper operation. Mine were frayed and rusted and had to be replaced.

Carburetor Adjustment - For Johnson, Evinrude and Gayle motors with a low speed needle or a low and high speed needle, see the FAQ by Joe Reeves, "Carb Needle Valve Adjustment for Assorted Carb Variations".


Make sure when you run your motor the lower unit is in water, because the motor is water cooled and the water level must be a least half way up the midsection when in a barrel.

To start the motor

turn the tiller handle to start position or a little past that mark (turning the grip counter clockwise)

Pull the choke out

Pull the starter handle and rope (eat your wheaties...lol)

When the motor starts, then push in the choke

Make sure your motor is pumping water (it will come out an exhaust relief hole slightly above the midway area of the outboard leg. It will come out like a thick spray! If after about 20 to 30sec of running and you don't see any water coming out, then shut the motor down.

No water pumping
-could be clogged water inlet at the foot of motor
-Old or worn water pump


Hope this gets you started....please get a service manual for your motor. The 20 or 30 bucks you spend will save alot of headaches and you can change your own gear oil, waterpump and bunch of other thing that will save you money in the long run!!!

Best of Luck to you!! (You have a great motor there)

cajuncook1
 
Thanks for the great info, really appreciate the help. I'm searching now for a service manual because I plan to do all the work on this motor. I just don't have much experience with outboards. I would probably already have this in the water except for the fact that the guy I got it from screwed up the titles a bit. I'm waiting till I get these all straightened out before I get too serious. Without the titles the boat is useless. Can't wait till I can get going. I plan to document the rebuild with pictures and a video or two.

Thanks again,

Joe
 
Jovush said:
Thanks for the great info, really appreciate the help. I'm searching now for a service manual because I plan to do all the work on this motor. I just don't have much experience with outboards. I would probably already have this in the water except for the fact that the guy I got it from screwed up the titles a bit. I'm waiting till I get these all straightened out before I get too serious. Without the titles the boat is useless. Can't wait till I can get going. I plan to document the rebuild with pictures and a video or two.

Thanks again,

Joe

Does your motor have a fuel pump? Those old 1960's vintage motors usually require the pressurized kind of tank. I don't think the tanks you are looking at are pressurized. A non-pressurized tank won'r wrk unless you have a fuel pump on your motor.
 
The current tank is an old pressure tank but the motor has a pump. I understand the previous owner used the pressure tank as a single line, guess it can be done. He didn't even use a bulb, used the button on tank to prime. I prefer to use a new tank, no telling what lurks in the bottom of that 50's era tank.
 
The 20hp Johnson he has definitely has a fuel pump, no pressured tank required. Fuel pumps started becoming standard around late 1959(don't quote me on that). The 1960 motors definitely had fuel pumps and there after. I looked up the breakdown for a 18hp Johnson/Evinrude for year 1960 and it showed a fuel pump. I think the Johnson manufactured the 20hp starting in 1966 (during that decade era).
 
cajuncook1 said:
The 20hp Johnson he has definitely has a fuel pump, no pressured tank required. Fuel pumps started becoming standard around late 1959(don't quote me on that). The 1960 motors definitely had fuel pumps and there after. I looked up the breakdown for a 18hp Johnson/Evinrude for year 1960 and it showed a fuel pump. I think the Johnson manufactured the 20hp starting in 1966 (during that decade era).

I stand corrected! #-o
 

Latest posts

Top