Mounting an Outboard motor question

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BassGeek54

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Since it is getting close to spring and I am seriously shopping for motors I have a question...if you are getting a tiller type outboard that is less than 25 HP is it recommended to have it professionally installed or is it as simple as bolting it to the transome? Sorry if this is dumb..first boat...first outboard...lots of enthusiasm!
 
There are no dumb questions here, only if you don't ask them. If you don't have any experience with outboards, everything is new. If you have a little mechanical ability and ask questions, you can probably mount it yourself with a little help from a friend. Even a 25HP can be pretty heavy if you are trying to wrestle it yourself. If you buy it from a dealer, they should assist you with mounting. Is it electric start? Make sure it is centered on the transom plate and secure. Consider a transom saver to keep the bouncing down and the prop off the pavement. If it will have cables for the transmission, throttle and steering, then I'd have it installed. I hope this helps.
 
Like as said above if at the dealer no reason to strain yourself let them put it on. Since you're just putting a tiller outboard on there's not much to do other making sure it has had it's oil and gear lube's been filled. If buying used I'd put it on. If buying new-the directions with a new outboard will take you step by step on what to do. The key to a good new motor is following the break in schedule (the first 10hrs of operation). I brought a new 18hp Nissan 4stroke in 2008 from https://www.onlineoutboards.com and had it shipped to my front door (best price at the time and no taxes) only took about 30 minutes to get out of the crate and on my boat.
 
Thanks you guys. I haven't actually found one yet but I am thinking probably a used motor. The boat is a 1648 Tracker Grizley, a 2010 model I got used and the guy who had it had a motor on it and it must have been bolted on some how because there are holes in the transome where it was. That bolt on thing made me a little nervous to just jump in and do it because I thought maybe there was something special I should know. I will probably have some more questions when I get it. :)
 
if there are holes in the transom then they are most likely from a jackplate . to installing your motor its simple , just make sure it is center , level and both transom bolts are tight . hook up fuel and your ready to go !! good luck with the motor hunting , try Craigslist and local outboard motor shops for good deals on used motors
 
4 holes in the transom? Top holes are spread wider then the bottom holes? Holes are 1/2 "?

That boat was designed to carry a motor large enough to not have transom screws, But you may have just two holes, because of a motor that did have transom screws. The two holes were for security reasons. 1, takes longer for someone to steal it, and 2, it insures, if the transom screws work loose as they sometimes do, the motor won't jump off the transom, as they will do.

Bolts long enough to do the job, washers on the head of the bolt inserted from the outside. Large fender washers on the inside under locking nuts or nuts, lock washers, and fender washers. Plenty of caulk in the holes and fender washers.

When you buy this motor, you need to get the right length leg on it. Measure the transom from top to bottom. If it's real close to 20" then that's the length motor you need, long shaft, if it's real close to 15" then that's the length motor you need, short shaft.

If the previous owner had a long shaft engine, 20", and that boat's transom is 15", that would be the scenario for a jack plate.
 
4 holes in the transom? Top holes are spread wider then the bottom holes? Holes are 1/2 "?

Yes, that is what they look like. According to the documentation I could put upto a 50 HP motor on this boat and the transom is almost 20" so it should be a long shaft (figures -- seems like all the good deals I see are for short shaft). I cannot afford a 50 HP motor so I am looking for one in the 15 to 25 HP size...with my budget probably closer to 15. I have been checking Craigs List, eBay and the local shops and Bass Pro for used motors. I am hoping that as springs gets rolling guys with money will trade something good in. :)

Thanks to all of you guys...this is really helping.
 
Bassgeek,

Have you looked at Lakeside Marine in Harrisburg? They have used motors for sale......a lot of people upgrade to a larger motor and Lakeside buys them, services them and then resells them. A used tiller jet would be perfect for running the Susky! :mrgreen:

Dave
 
Rpjet -- I didn't actually look there yet...was watching CL, Bowers in Wormleysburg just had a consignment 1995 40 HP that went for about $600. I have actually been talking to the one guy that had one for sale on TinBoats and that one is looking pretty good.

We need to get together and talk about fishing, go fishing or something.

Thank you.
 
If you find a motor you want to look at, be sure to check the compression on each cylinder. All should be over 100#'s and close to equal to each other. By close to each other, I mean compression within a couple of #'s of each other. Hear it run and be sure you have spark on all cylinders. Check the lower unit oil for water in it. That can be an expensive fix.
 
My Johnson 20 was as simple as putting it in the middle, tightening the clamps and hooking up a fuel line.
 
BassGeek54 said:
Thanks for the info Bobg...it there an easy way to check the lower unit for water in the oil or is it an involved process?


Fairly easy. I use an impact tool with a broad common screwdriver tip in it. Just like changing your lower unit oil, release the upper screw that shows you've got enough oil when it over flows, then release the lower screw you fill the lower unit from, and see what comes out. if water's in it, that will come out first. If you run the engine before doing this, and water's in it, the oil will be milky colored. If it's pure black it's good, but should need changing.
If it looks like clean oil, it's been changed recently.

Have a way of replacing this oil after checking it, if you don't buy it, or not.
 
Take Bobg's advise and bolt the motor down. While you may think the transom clamps are tight, motors have a way of jumpng off the back of a boat. While the obvious might be the motor jumping off into the water, they can jump off going down the highway too. (Please don't ask!) Hitting a bump going 50mph does amazing things!
 
I bought a 15 HP johnson from https://www.smalloutboards.com. The outboard has run like a top ever since. They have a big selection from 3HP folders to 225HP saltwater motors. Because I've had such good luck with them I will give them a plug...and business if I need another motor.
 
Most motors under 35 hp are just clamped to the transom with no problems at all.Just keep an eye on the transom clamps to make sure they are tight.
When checking lower unit oil make sure you take the right screw out to check oil.There is a screw in the lower unit that is the pivot screw for your shifter.If you accidentally take that screw out you may have to disassemble your lower to get it back in.
 
If your boat is rated for 50 hp .. try to get as close to that HP as you can. An underpowered boat will just make you unhappy...and you will be buying a proper motor later on. Better to wait for a good deal on an older motor of the right size, than to "settle" for the wrong one.

That said, my boat (160W Lowe) is rated for 70 hp but runs fine on my 40 with a modest load. Rich
 
Have I mentioned lately that this is the best site there is!!! Thank you guys so much for all of the advise and tips. You guys answered questions I didn't even know to ask. I truely appreciate all of the posts. You guys are the best.

Thanks,
Michael
 
crazymanme2 said:
Most motors under 35 hp are just clamped to the transom with no problems at all.Just keep an eye on the transom clamps to make sure they are tight.
When checking lower unit oil make sure you take the right screw out to check oil.There is a screw in the lower unit that is the pivot screw for your shifter.If you accidentally take that screw out you may have to disassemble your lower to get it back in.

Notice in my directions to check lower unit oil, I mentioned COMMON screwdriver. Good point mentioned above, but any other screw you see down there will have a phillips head, don't mess with them at all.
 

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