Salt water motor???

Would any of you guys hesitate buying a motor run in saltwater before. The motor is an 89 model one owner, it's been run in salt and fresh water and he says he's flushed the motor every time out salt or fresh water and the motor show no signs of corrosion or rust of any kind. I can't beat the price on it but the saltwater thing is my only hang up on it. Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks.

Living on the edge of it here it's almost impossible to find a motor that hasn't been run in the salt. I look for obvious corrosion but it sounds like the motor you're looking at is pretty clean. I wouldn't hesitate if the deal is good.

Check out the sacrificial anodes and take the thermostat out if motor is equipt with them. This will give you an idea of what it is like inside. Being an 89' you might want to have it gone through by a mechanic.

You said it showed no signs of corrosion. That is a good sign. Usually when a motor has not been cleaned properly after running in saltwater too many times corrosion starts in the nook and cranny's inside the cowling and at the seams of the mating parts. Being on the coast here in SC there are not too many that have not seen saltwater around. The first thing I would do is replace the impeller even if the previous owner say's that it was just replaced. You can get a good idea on how well the water jackets look from your observation of the impeller. If he did just replace the impeller you will have a good spare. You can also tell if the water it was run in was pretty clear or had a lot of sand and debris in it. If it looks as good as you say it should not be a problem.

I'm gonna take a shot in the dark on it. There's enough parts to make my money back. The motor has low compression so it will need rebuilt but that's just half the fun for me. I've been into these motors enough times I could do it with my eyes closed.
I figured I would just make sure there wasn't something that I've missed about motors being run in salt water.
Thanks a million guys

Things I look for are fasteners that need to come out on a periodic basis. I will ask about the maintenance on the engine and then take tools and see if gearcase bolts will loosen, etc. In your case you may want to check headbolts, powerhead mounting bolts, etc. before jumping on it if it is not too late already.

Bought and paid for. Like I said I'm getting it for nothing so I'm not worried about. It's in Florida and I'm having a guy I know pick it up when he goes down in two weeks so I guess we will see if if I luck out or lost out.

That's funny....I own an engine up in Springfield, Mo that I would love to have down here! Is he anywhere near Springfield?

If you've never worked on salt water engines before, get ready to either break some bolts due to corrosion around the threads, or learn to use heat on those bolts. Minimum heat would be MAPP gas, I use acetylene. Penetrating oil is useless on aluminum oxide corrosion.

Mapp gas isn't too bad to use, but might not be hot enough to break down the aluminum oxide in the threads. Acetylene is definitely hot enough, but will make your aluminum disappear right before your eyes. It takes some practice. Propane is useless in many cases, but might work.

Springfield is out of his way so I don't think he will be interested.
I think I can manage to get this motor apart just fine, not my first rodeo with these motors. Like I said the motor had no signs of rust or corrosion on anything. I don't have to worry about a lower unit because it doesn't have it and I will be replacing it with a jet pump anyway. This motor didn't see a whole lot of saltwater so I think it will be all right. Most saltwater motors I've looked at have atleast one place on the powerhead that shows corrosion or rust and I can't see any. Two weeks and I'll find out.

"I figured I would just make sure there wasn't something that I've missed about motors being run in salt water."

Well, you're the one that asked, BTW, you didn't mention what make of motor this is or hp. Could you, just for curiosity?

I love to get a hold of freshwater run engines, like night and day working on them as apposed to salt engines. I don't get that luxury often.

Sorry, didn't mean it like a smart @$%. I just posted this to get a quick idea if there was anything that was missing anbout salt water motors. Most guys said no big deals so I bought and paid for it tuesday. I've dealt with my fair share of tough bolts (red lock tight on aluminium) #-o things like that. The motor is a 1989 70hp johnson with tilt trim, low compression on one cylinder and the lower unit was removed. I'll be putting a jet on it so no big deal. Bore it over and three new pistons should have it purrin like a kitten again.

I expect a full report on this build. Sounds like a fun project.

Lil' Blue Rude said:

Sorry, didn't mean it like a smart @$%. I just posted this to get a quick idea if there was anything that was missing anbout salt water motors. Most guys said no big deals so I bought and paid for it tuesday. I've dealt with my fair share of tough bolts (red lock tight on aluminium) #-o things like that. The motor is a 1989 70hp johnson with tilt trim, low compression on one cylinder and the lower unit was removed. I'll be putting a jet on it so no big deal. Bore it over and three new pistons should have it purrin like a kitten again.

Click to expand...

All is good here.

Tough bolts are a problem anywhere. Red locktite only requires some heat to break free. so I've been told by instructors when in school many years ago. If you don't cuss, you might start, when you deal with salt engines, even though they look good. I hope the best for you.

I'd give it a close inspection first on that low compression cylinder. With any luck it could be just a head gasket. With the change made to the 70's, by putting the pee tube to the top of the exhaust side, instead of it being originally at the bottom, those engines were nearly bullet proof.
Love those 70 hp OMC engines.

Glad to hear.
Personally I hope it isn't the head gasket. That could turn out to be a night mare if it flooded the crank bearings, plus the motors head wasn't removed so the water would probably still be in it rusting away at things. I would say a ring finally stuck and snapped. He said he had the compression checked a year or two back, the summer after that he didn't get much of a chance to drive it. Then the last time he got it out it lost power and he put it on the trailor. It was still running when it lost power. It's one of these things where it can be a fine line. Hopefully the if it did snap a ring it just went out the exhaust port without chewing up the head or and of the ports on it's way out. I'm a paceint guy but I'm ready to tear into this thing and see what I've bought. It's gonna be a long two weeks.

Hey Rude, what is the difference between the 70 and 60. I have been seeing more 70s running around on the upper end of Wappapello Lake but all with props. Is the 70 more beefy. Is there some dang stamp on it that will hender you on the upper Current River for what you want it for.

There are two diffrent 3 cylinder OMC's a 49cu (dogs with a pump) and a 56cu (run great on a pump). The diffrence in the 60,65,70,75hp motors are the carbs. I'll have to get something figured out about it being a 70hp because the water patrol like to make a stink about it even though it is the same motor as the 60. I'm probably just gonna rebuild it and sell it. I've got a great running 40hp and I'm having a hard time justifying selling a great running 40hp to dump alot more money into a 70hp that probably won't even out run my current 40hp. Plus the 70 will drink more gas. Might change my mind. Who knows?

I was wondering if it was just the carbs. Do they check you and get pretty picky with you guys over there.

They'll try to give you a ticket for anything they can. I say that but it depends on the officer, some don't care other are pain. I think the first time you get caught with oversized carbs they'll give you a warning.

I hope we'll hear back from you on this. I'm looking forward to it.