What is good paint for an outboard?

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

G Lap

Active member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
41
Reaction score
1
Location
Hockley, TX
I have a 1988 Suzuki 20hp outboard that I have been using for about 8 yrs. The motor has done very well for me, but as far as appearance . . . it has seen better days. The paint has chipped off in many places on the lower unit, and the fiberglass engine cover has most of the original paint peeled off. I want to repaint the motor, but I want to take the time and do it right so it will last.
What type of paint is the most durable for this application, and where can they be purchased?
Also, I would appreciated any tips from you guys who have experiece repainting outboard motors . . . thanks.
 
you should be able to get the original paint colors from suzuki, i got mine from evinrude/johnson. you can also get the original decals from them or online, they're out there you just have to hunt for them. my buddy bought over the counter spray paint and some clear coat(poly,) and used it and it looks great, he said he was careful to tape everywhere he thought the paint or poly should not get into. good luck!
 
Shawnfish -
Has the over the counter paint that your friend used, or the Evinrude paint that you used held up over time? I don't really care if the paint that I use matches the factory original. It seems that I heard somewhere that epoxy paints are real durable, but I do not know anything about these, if it would be a good application for them, or where to buy them.
 
G Lap said:
Shawnfish -
Has the over the counter paint that your friend used, or the Evinrude paint that you used held up over time? I don't really care if the paint that I use matches the factory original. It seems that I heard somewhere that epoxy paints are real durable, but I do not know anything about these, if it would be a good application for them, or where to buy them.

the over the counter paint he used has held up great for the 3 yrs its been on, he used gloss protective enamel and minwax clear semi-gloss polyurethane applying several light coats of each. he took it apart because as you know there are some spots you would not be able to reach without and you can do a better job doing it in peices, i just got my paint a while back and am going to do it this winter. one more thing, he had the peices sandblasted and did use rust oleum stops rust primer. i actually think he would have been better off in the long run using a epoxy paint but his still looks good and hasnt faded or chipped. a paint store or a online store will sell you epoxy paint but you will probally need a airless or gravity fed sprayer to apply...
 
Figure that you pretty much get what you pay for in paint quality. I never do the spraying, only the prep work. In talking to the paint/body guy that I have had work done by the better paints seem to be any of the name brand two part urethanes. Always use the recommended primers and prep solvents with these paints and they will be very durable. Apparently the stuff is pretty toxic so I am happy to leave that aspect to the guy in the know. I am sure somebody on here will chime in and know more about the safety side of it.
 
Haven't read threw the responses so sorry if this is a rehash....I've done two motors and I went to the local auto paint store and had them match up the color and put it in a spray can. Get a good can of the closest color primer and a good can of the right kind of clear paint. Prep it as best you can and wipe it down with the little tack cloths they sell at the stores tape up any areas you don't want paint and don't get any runs while painting and you should be good to go. Take your time and put on more than one coat so you don't get runs put on light coates of paint....several if needed.
 
I'm with pappy, you gt what you pay for. I use urethane base coat and then use a urethane clear. Same stuff they use on cars. Make sure that you have a good resperator once the chemicals get in your system they don't come out. They're there until you die and if you get to many of them any your system you react to the paint fumes if you get anywhere near them. Make sure to deagrase every part hte best you can and knock off any f the old flaking paint and scuff everything so the paint has something to bite on to.
 
i painted my motor with krylon the first time was not impressed repainted w/ duplicolor and put thier clearcoat on it as well i am much more impressed.
 
Top