70's Evinrude Mate 1.5hp

Going to look at this 1.5hp Evinrude and not sure what I should look for except making sure it turns over and not siezed, along with checking for anything in the tank. Any help before I pick it up. It has been sitting and the person that has it is has no knowledge of engines or how long its bin sitting.

This motor is very simple in design. Check for compression with a compression gauge. It is a single cylinder motor.

- Check to make sure the spark plug hole threads are not stripped or damage.
- This motor is direct drive system so when you pull the cord then the propeller will turn as well.
- Check for spark with a spark checker. ( This will give a idea if the ignition system is ok)
- check the lower unit oil for water or bits of metal (this can give you an idea if there is possible trouble in the lower unit.
- look for possible cracks are holes in the power head. The motor could have been overheated or run with poor oil mixture and thrown a connection rod.
- Check the tank for rust or severe gumming.
- If your compression is less than 70mmhg then the rings may have excessive wear.

The reason I reviewed all these points is for you to evaluate the motor and to decide if the asking price is worth it. With the above information you can negotiate a price.

Your motor uses the typical coil, condenser and points system. Carb kit is standard and easily obtained as well.

You can probably get a good running motor for about $200 to $300.

Couple of things for you to think about if you have no spark and if owner is unable to start the motor to evaluate.

No spark

1 coil $19.87, 1 set of points $7.97, 1 condenser $3.42 , 1 spark plug $2.36

Fuel

carb kit OMC kit with float $15.30

Water pump (should change regardless)

impeller omc impeller $9.30

Total (not including shipping or taxes) = 58.22

That is if you have no other issue. (These are the most typical parts and kits purchased to restore a outboard to running condition)

It is a good running little motor when properly maintained. Proper fuel to oil ratio is 50:1. Would not hurt it to run a little richer on the oil maybe 40:1 or 32:1.

I have 1972 2hp Johnson and it is great for a canoe or pirogue.

oops a resend...just deleted

Well I got the motor and cleaned it up. It actually has no rust any where in the tank or on the body itself. I can turn the motor over smoothly and before I did for the first time I pulled the plug and it was very clean with only minimal signs of usage. Could not find my spark tester.so I have not done that yet. I am slightly confused about the throttle though. Is it controled on the top where it says STOP START FAST with the slider?

Dice1 said:

Well I got the motor and cleaned it up. It actually has no rust any where in the tank or on the body itself. I can turn the motor over smoothly and before I did for the first time I pulled the plug and it was very clean with only minimal signs of usage. Could not find my spark tester.so I have not done that yet. I am slightly confused about the throttle though. Is it controled on the top where it says STOP START FAST with the slider?

Click to expand...

Glad to hear there is no rust. Yes the lever on top that slides from stop to fast is your throttle.

So now I have to check for spark and if she has spark replace plug and put fuel in tank the I should be able to kick the motor over. Should I hit it with a small amount of Starting Fluid or just crank it. Also to check the lower unit oil what should I do and how do I do it?

You can put some premix gas in the tank. (Fuel to oil ratio 50:1....... that is about 3 ounce of TWC-3 marine 2cycle oil to 1 gallon of gas). Do not use starting fluid it has no lubrication for the motor. The premix fuel is the fuel only source of oil/lubrication. Unlike 4 cycle motors, like your lawn mower, 2cycle motors require to mix oil with the gas for lubrication.

Remember to open the vent cap on the tank cap

open the fuel petcock on the left side of the motor facing it.

pull the choke

set the throttle lever to start

crank the motor and push the chock knob in when it starts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGpnbqMATTw&feature=grec_index

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0zw8Rut-Zs

In the second video, you will notice the operator will be pulling the choke half out for a little while until the motor in warmed up and then pushes it back in.

To drain the lower unit. Have the motor in the up right position on the boat or stand. Remove the standard head screw and let the oil drain out. When done, check the oil for water, milky coloration or tiny metal bits. If the drainage is a slightly milk color, then verify that the lower unit drain/fill screw that there has a plastic washer. The washer helps prevent water from entering the lower unit. Sometimes the washer will stay in the lower unit screw hole area and may not be noticed by the owner(because it is plastic or covered with oil) and the owner will add a second washer with the re instillation of the drain screw because they did not see the first one. This can also cause water to enter the gearcase as well, because it does not allow a good seal.

To fill the lower unit, place outboard carefully on its side, and slowly pour lower unit oil in the gear case until it fills and then replace the drain/fill screw. Lower unit oil is any 80W-90W marine gear oil.


Make sure the water pump is working when you run the motor. There will be a fine mist of water coming out of the four holes about mid way down the shaft. You will see that in the first or second video...can't remember. If not you will have to replace the water impeller.

Check for over heating on the left side of the motor, with you facing the motor. There should be a round freeze plug with the model or serial number on it. If you try and check it on the cylinder head cover or on the rightside where exhaust plate is at, you will get false hot reading. The cylinder head cover has very little water circulating near it to cool it well and the exhaust cover on the right side facing the motor (opposite side of the round freeze plug), just has hot exhaust gases behind it. So those area get blazing hot.


Hope she starts for ya. If not check out the ignition system first it there is not spark.

I have a small gas can for my 2 stroke that is almost empty. Would a small amount or regular 2 stroke oil effect the staring and running of the engine?

Well the petcok is clogged and I cant get the tank off. Took the carb off and gona order a new kit along with points and other ignition items. The stem that take the fuel line was also clogged with gunk. Its gonna be a basic rebuild of the whole thing like new. Any advice on how to take the flywheel off by myself. I cant get a good grip on it to take the nut off the top.

Hey buddy, follow this link. The article does an excellent job with pictures to tell you how to pop off the flywheel and change your ignition system. Instead of reinventing the wheel, I will just supply the link. :LOL2:

https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=294072

You will have to open account just like this site to see the pictures. (It's free just like this site!) Not trying steer you away, just an easy link to help you pop off your fly wheel. They also sell coil, points, and stuff like that for a decent price and shipping is fast. I have used them couple of times and have been satisfied with price and product.

Good luck

I still dont see how to keep the Flywheel from moving and I can not use a flywheel puller for this motor due to the rope pull start on top. I have to see if I can get a frined to lend me his shop to try and mount the motor and zip it off with an impact gun.

Dice1 said:

I still dont see how to keep the Flywheel from moving and I can not use a flywheel puller for this motor due to the rope pull start on top. I have to see if I can get a frined to lend me his shop to try and mount the motor and zip it off with an impact gun.

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You can use a strap wrench to hold it in place while you use the harmonic balancer (flywheel remover) to pop off the flywheel. Please don't try to pry off the flywheel are you will damage or warp it and then it is no good.

The portion of the flywheel that the rope wraps around comes off when you remove the flywheel nut. When you go to put the flywheel nut back on, please torque it to 25 ft pounds.

Here is a diagram of the flywheel and the ignition parts.




Here is a link to a parts diagram for your motor as well.

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1970&hp=1.5&model=1002R

Follow this link to get a free compact service manual for your motor. It not the best but it will help some.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14047&p=142776#p142776

I got that same Diagram because I ordered the coil and points set for it. Im gonna have to make a plug wire if needed because it is not avaliable any more. thanks for all the help.

Ok I see. After the the pull wheel comes off I can screw into the top of the Flywheel for the puller. Missed that on the first pass threw the image.

yep!! 8)

Dice1 said:

I got that same Diagram because I ordered the coil and points set for it. Im gonna have to make a plug wire if needed because it is not avaliable any more. thanks for all the help.

Click to expand...

You can get the spark plug wire at any auto parts store cheaply. Make sure it is 7mm copper core and you can get the plugs end as well as the boot.

The strap wrench got the nut loose and now I have to just get the Fly wheel off. Its going good so far no stuck bolts no nothing. The best part is i got the Crawdad all apart and started on the floor. so by the time the weather cools off in the fall I should be good to go.Thanks for all the Advice guys.

Well its all apart and just waiting for the new coil and points set. The coil look like it was never replace since this motor was new so I am guessing that after the coil went they just put it aside. the flywheel needed a small amount of tapping with a rubber mallet(not hard just a tap) to get her loose. Nice and clean on the inside. Now I have to pop the Tank off. Any advise to crack the Flat head screws holding it in place loose? they are very tight on there and dont want to strip the head of the screw.