9.5 Johnson

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ENIRB

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2010
Messages
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Location
NW PA


Picked this up from CL, so I could hopefully get out into more prime waters.
I checked the top cylinder for spark before buying, but got lost in conversation and didn't check the bottom one.

Johnson 9.5hp Short Shaft Tiller
Model- MQ-14D (Unsure what the D stands for?)
Serial- J2965779
From what I have seen that puts this as a 1968 motor...

Long story short, will fire for a moment with the aid of starting fluid (I know bad ju-ju).
Top cylinder is sparking.
Bottom cylinder is not.

Spark plug holes have been sleeved- so a new head is on the shopping list as well.
Hint Hint if someone has one or knows of one lying around.
For the time being since I don't have the cash to throw at a new head I would like to get by without replacing that immediately as the plugs look good as of now.

I would like to fix the spark issue, but am new to working on outboards and am unsure where to begin.
Will I need special tools to remove/install new condenser/magneto/points?
How long does it typically take to change these items out?

I appreciate any insight!
 
With no spark, I would certainly lean towards the coils if they've not been replaced recently. The coils, points and condensers are relatively easy to replace once you get the flywheel off. If I were you, I would go ahead and replace them all while you're in there especially if you don't know the last time they were changed. The parts are inexpensive (coils are $20 or so a piece and a tune-up kit with new points and condensers is around $20 as well) and pretty easy to find. Your local NAPA store can order most of these parts (Sierra) for you. The only special tools you should need are a flywheel puller (make sure to use the kind that uses the 3 bolt holes) and a torque wrench (can borrow from AutoZone if needed). When you replace the flywheel, be sure to torque the flywheel nut to the recommended factory specs or you risk damaging the crankshaft, woodruff key and/or flywheel. I learned this the hard way once!
 
f1maxis said:
With no spark, I would certainly lean towards the coils if they've not been replaced recently. The coils, points and condensers are relatively easy to replace once you get the flywheel off. If I were you, I would go ahead and replace them all while you're in there especially if you don't know the last time they were changed. The parts are inexpensive (coils are $20 or so a piece and a tune-up kit with new points and condensers is around $20 as well) and pretty easy to find. Your local NAPA store can order most of these parts (Sierra) for you. The only special tools you should need are a flywheel puller (make sure to use the kind that uses the 3 bolt holes) and a torque wrench (can borrow from AutoZone if needed). When you replace the flywheel, be sure to torque the flywheel nut to the recommended factory specs or you risk damaging the crankshaft, woodruff key and/or flywheel. I learned this the hard way once!

Thanks for the advice, I will most likely just replace everything like you mentioned, since I'm in there anyways.

This link:
https://www.maxrules.com/fixtuneitup.html
... shows them using a steering wheel puller/harmonic puller, is that sufficient?
 
Yep, that one should work just fine. Basically just about any puller that uses the 3 bolts holes in the flywheel instead of pulling on the outside surface of it. I use a $10 "harmonic balancer" puller from NAPA and it works great.
 
I'm ordering parts on friday, any special torque value's or specifics that need loc-tited?

Trying to have everything in order beforehand so I don't have to keep coming inside to post questions, and wait for responses #-o

I'll do my best to remember to take pictures...
 
Another question:
Found a new cylinder head: $60 + $5 shipping.
Proclaimed to be in GREAT shape.

Reasonable?
 
ENIRB said:
...any special torque value's...?

Tightening torques (Inch-Pounds)

Connecting Rod...90-100
Crankcase Halves...120-145
Cylinder Head...96-120
Flywheel...480-540
Spark Plug...240-246

To convert to Foot-Pounds divide by 12.
 
Your local NAPA can order most of these pieces (Sierra) for you. The only special tools you need is a flywheel puller (be sure to use the type that uses the 3 bolt holes) and a torque wrench (can borrow from AutoZone, if necessary). When replacing the wheel, be sure to tighten the flywheel nut to factory specifications recommended as it can damage the crankshaft key and / or steering wheel. I learned the hard way once!
 
F1Maxis - Thanks for the link to the parts diagram, ordered from that company (sierra parts), saved me 10$ or so compared to other websites.

I ordered new coils, points, condensers.
As soon as I get the parts in I'll begin the repairs.

Also, do you think $60 for the used cylinder head is reasonable?
 
ENIRB said:
F1Maxis -

Also, do you think $60 for the used cylinder head is reasonable?


Try posting a webvertise ad on AOMCI website, it is free and the members are honest and have decent prices. I certainly think you could do much cheaper than $60 for a good condition cylinder head cover, even with shipping.

https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=Webvertize

This fellow may have some at a decent price. I have dealt with him the past and have had fair dealing with him.

BLC Marine

Bobby "BLC" Chapman
Buy & Sell Marine Equipment
Any condition
Specializing in OMC outboard
Dickinson, Texas

[email protected]

281-337-1805
713-705-0664
806-256-2089


Here is a list of outboard savage yards around the US that you can contact by email.
www.sea-way.com
www.outboard-parts.com
www.laingsoutboards.com
www.tcoutboard.com
www.fairwindsmarina.com
www.salvagemarine.com
www.marinepartsoutlet.com
www.outboardexchange.com
www.Superior Marine (800-338-9281)
www.budgetboats.net
www.americanoutboard.com
www.piratemarinesalvage.com
www.trixieslanding.com
www.mmmarinesalvage.com


Good luck
 
cajuncook1 said:
ENIRB said:
F1Maxis -

Also, do you think $60 for the used cylinder head is reasonable?


Try posting a webvertise ad on AOMCI website, it is free and the members are honest and have decent prices. I certainly think you could do much cheaper than $60 for a good condition cylinder head cover, even with shipping.

https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=Webvertize

This fellow may have some at a decent price. I have dealt with him the past and have had fair dealing with him.

BLC Marine

Bobby "BLC" Chapman
Buy & Sell Marine Equipment
Any condition
Specializing in OMC outboard
Dickinson, Texas

[email protected]

281-337-1805
713-705-0664
806-256-2089


Here is a list of outboard savage yards around the US that you can contact by email.
https://www.sea-way.com
https://www.outboard-parts.com
https://www.laingsoutboards.com
https://www.tcoutboard.com
https://www.fairwindsmarina.com
https://www.salvagemarine.com
https://www.marinepartsoutlet.com
https://www.outboardexchange.com
https://www.Superior Marine (800-338-9281)
https://www.budgetboats.net
https://www.americanoutboard.com
https://www.piratemarinesalvage.com
https://www.trixieslanding.com
https://www.mmmarinesalvage.com


Good luck


Thanks great information, I will email that gentleman as well.
 




I got all the new parts installed, going to pickup a torque wrench/feeler guage tomorrow so I can check gap, and put the flywheel back on.

There is a small wick type part that I replaced as well, is that supposed to keep the cam clean, or should I lubricate it to ensure lubrication?
 
Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam.

Ignitionplateandoilwick.jpg


FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. (Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting)

You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.***

When you go to set the point's gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance....poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.

Here is a picture of a spark check...Cheap $6

sparktesterpic.jpg



Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder.


TopCyl.jpg



If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.

***** Please make sure two things*****

1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!! Be sure to reconnect the stop wires back on correctly.

2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.

Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)

wrongcoilmount.jpg


rightwaytomountcoil.jpg


Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.


I hope this helps ya out! Might have gone overboard a bit but wanted to make sure you had a good idea.
 
cajuncook1 said:
Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam.

Ignitionplateandoilwick.jpg


FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. (Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting)

You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.***

When you go to set the point's gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance....poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.

Here is a picture of a spark check...Cheap $6

sparktesterpic.jpg



Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder.


TopCyl.jpg



If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.

***** Please make sure two things*****

1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!! Be sure to reconnect the stop wires back on correctly.

2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.

Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)

wrongcoilmount.jpg


rightwaytomountcoil.jpg


Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.


I hope this helps ya out! Might have gone overboard a bit but wanted to make sure you had a good idea.

Cajun GREAT INSTRUCTIONS!
Thanks, I did install the new wicker, but it didn't seem oiled to me (granted I had gloves on).

I will be finishing this tomorrow evening hopefully.
Would like to be using motor Tues weather permitting.

Thanks again, that was very very helpful!
 
If your oil wicker is dry, you can add a couple of drops of light oil on it. If you are ever back in the ignition system at a later date you can always refresh the oil wicker as stated above.

Hope things go well.
 
Well, I went back and checked to make sure the coils were seated properly so as not to contact the flywheel... good thing I did, thanks for the tip.
Torqued everything down, spark was incredible.

Hook up the fuel line, pump to build pressure, pull, pull, pull, pull, pull... nothing.
Squirt of Starting Fluid (I know I know), pull *sputter*, pull *idle for 2 seconds*.
Drain carb to make sure fuels at least getting there.
Pull, pull, pull, pull... nothing.

WAIT A SECOND...

wtf...

 
So...

The low speed mixture knob is obviously missing, but that adjustment wouldn't have an immediate effect of the engine starting would it?

I know what's coming next, a removal and overhaul of the carb, I've got the Carb Dip ready, but would like a walk-through, or an exploded view.

This is just an example of my luck, seriously.

Any help would be appreciated guys, or donations to the fund (jk).
 

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