impeller, 1958 10 hp Johnson ...

Need some help from someone, anyone.
I have a 1958 Johnson 10 HP QD-19 with a bad impeller.
I ordered the replacement part from NAPA and installed it today, sort of.

The inner diameter of the replacement impeller is larger than the one I took out.
I rechecked the part number and it shows I ordered the right one.

Also the numb on the drive shaft that should turn the impeller did not engage the impeller as well as i thought it should have. It also looked a little mashed.

I have put it all back together, but have not tried it out yet.
Anybody have any thoughts on this. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
KillerKilgore



UPDATE: Just saw a pic of what the impeller key should look like. mine looks nothing like.
so guess who gets gets to take it all back apart again, this guy
at least there is no damage done it hasn't been started since last time i tore it down

UPDATE 9.30.11 1650hrs: Just got back from NAPA and looks like they changed the impeller from model years 57 and 58. The guy at NAPA is ordering the 57 10hp impeller and is going to see if it is the right one. Like he said I may have a 58 year model with parts left over from 57. We'll see.
The impeller key was not mashed.
If any body cares.
The part number that I ordered was 183003 that is for the 58.
The part number that is on its way is 183002 that is for the 57.

Why not buy an original equipment impeller from any Johnson/Evinrude dealer? They fit, they are available, and there is a 1 year guarantee on the part.

No dealer close. NAPA only 3 mile round trip.

Wouldn't have made any difference unless that dealer had both parts in stock.
I looked up the parts on marineengine and they are different between the 57 and 58 models.

But thanks for the reply.

KillerKilgore

Definitely different. The 1957 gearcase had a large rear bolt holding the gearcase on in addition to the 2 on each of the sides. Everything including propellers was larger on that gearcase.

Well got the new impeller today. IT FITS

Come to find out I have a 1957 QD-18 10hp Johnson not a 58. (at least the lower unit is 57)

I do have another question.
On the 57 there is NO cap on top of the impeller housing. Just an O-ring.
Thought that it was just missing when I thought I had the 58.
Yes there is the 5th bolt thanks Pappy.

Does the O-ring fit down inside the outer portion of the water pump housing or just on the drive shaft somewhere. The O-ring was missing as well and had to get from a local hardware store.
It is a little thick to fit around the drive shaft and still fit down snug on the outside water pump housing.

I think I will have to wait til Monday and get a thinner O-ring.
It helps to bounce something off someone even if I'm just talking to myself.

UPDATE:10.03.11 6:30pm IT'S ALIVE

The o-ring fits in the groove on the top of the driveshaft and is there to retain grease in the splines while running. Am hoping you greased the daylights out of the splines before installing the gearcase? If not, well worth dropping the case real quick and greasing them. There should be a grommet that fits in the top of the waterpump housing for the water tube to seal against. The grommet should have two nipples, one on each side, that fit in corresponding holes in the sides of the water tube tower.

Pappy said:

The o-ring fits in the groove on the top of the driveshaft and is there to retain grease in the splines while running.

Click to expand...

I put the o-ring there. How do I get grease in there?

Pappy said:

Am hoping you greased the daylights out of the splines before installing the gearcase? If not, well worth dropping the case real quick and greasing them.

Click to expand...

Didn't drain the lube out of gearcase. I did check and fill the gearcase after reassembly. Do I still need to put grease?

Pappy said:

There should be a grommet that fits in the top of the waterpump housing for the water tube to seal against. The grommet should have two nipples, one on each side, that fit in corresponding holes in the sides of the water tube tower.

Click to expand...

I reused the old grommets.
If I have to disassemble it again I think I will put a little silicone about 1/4 in from the end of the water tube.
But I think now I can take it apart and put it back in 30 minutes or so.
I took it out yesterday and had a good time. Stripers [EDITED] are hitting chicken liver about 3-4 feet from the surface. Just put on a float and had a ball. We, my son and I, had about 30 in the boat under 2 hours. CPR

Well worth dropping the gearcase again and greasing the splines above the oring. That is potentially a high wear area without the grease and will usually take the splines out of the crankshaft if not lubed. Would absolutely drain and refill the gearcase as well. Try and get some of the lube from Johnson/Evinrude product, well worth it even if you have to have some sent to you. Any other such as Merc or Yamaha will work just try not to do generic stuff. Keep an eye on the gearlube every trip for a while until you reseal the gearcase. Those old seals can and will let go at any time. Should be no need for silicon above the grommet. You should have alot of water exiting the exhaust housing.
BTW how did you get the "strippers" to eat chicken liver.....the ones I remember only ate $1 dollar bills and that was in a bar! Congrats on your day fishing with your son, hope you have many more. You should post those striper pictures in the Fishing report section. I have a few posts in there from some fishing I do down here.

My bad on the spelling I will fix it.
Plan on going out today. I will make the corrections you advised me of Thanks again

Was just messin' with ya' on the spelling!

Well, 30 minutes turned into 2 hrs. That includes getting parts and making gaskets.
I took the drive shaft out of the water pump and used it push as much grease (Marine grade) up into
the bottom of the engine bearing. I replaced the o-ring just to be safe. I pushed grease down into the spline connections of the gear case as well. I replaced the gear lube in the gear case. I made gaskets for the screws for the fill and drain holes for the gear case. I even made a gasket where the water tower meets the gear case.

It's a little late to go out but I will hit the lake in the morning.

Pappy said:

Was just messin' with ya' on the spelling!

Click to expand...

If you can't laugh at yourself you can't laugh at others. I get a good kick out of myself at times.

Might have messed up a little but don't think it will hurt.
Didn't put a lot of grease down into the gear case, but don't think I should have put any. Oh well.
Any way this guy here filled the gear case with grease
https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/index1.htm
But as he said he didn't plan on using it too much he just wanted to keep it from leaking all the lube out.
I hope it will be OK. If not that will give me something to do this winter.

Shouldn't be grease in the gearcase. Shold be gearlube. Pretty much the same viscosity as differential fluid in automotive applications. Any good outboard manufaturer's fluid wil work. I happen to like the BRP/OMC fluid.

That's what I thought after I done it. #-o Too late now. Live and Learn.

It is starting to get chilly here at night so there won't to many more trips out. I have a lot of stuff on the honey-do list before it really gets cold. If not, might have to put the old impeller back so the engine can keep me and the dog warm.

But the main problem has been solved and that is water flow, overheating.
Before, when the engine was cold I got good water flow. After about 10 minutes of runnin in a tank, flow would almost stop. Now, 45 minute trip up the lake and the engine is still cool as a cucumber.

I plan to do a lot of part replacin over the winter. Points, coils, GEAR CASE SEALS, and maybe even some paint.
The guy that had the boat and motor before me painted everything brown.
I found some graphics on the net, expensive but think I will get a local print shop here to do what I need, maybe. The plate on the front of the motor, where the idle needles adjustments and choke, is what I would like to have painted and looking as close to factory the most.

Can I paint the plate, print out the graphic on sticky paper, apply to plate, and then put clear coat over it?
I'm cheap. I could try it and see what happens. There's nothing like a try and a failure.
Guess that is another thread.

Anyway, Pappy thanks for all your help. I'm sure that I will be buggin you again when I get the engine
torn completely down and can't get back together or runnin like it should.
But I have a 1982? 5 hp goodyear? sea bee? (engine locked up and soaking in a bucket of used motor oil), a 1979 7.5 sears gamefisher and a 19?? electric start 7.5 gamefisher (my brothers) that I can also tear up.

Pappy, THANKS again.=D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
Kilgore