1989 johnson 25hp problems....please help

I have a 1989 johnson 25hp model TJ25ELCEB. I have a really hard time getting it started.....once started it runs smooth at idle and up till the last time i used it it ran pretty good threw all rpm ranges.....Once warm it would start right back up USUALLY with out choking.....sometimes i would have to choke it and it would run rough for a few seconds than smooth out......now the last time i had it out last year after already warm it was a PITA to get started and when i would give it some throttle it would die.....I figured out by holding the choke it would run smooth and seemed to run just fine till i got to the dock to load up......

Now i have alot of mechanical ability as i am a automotive mechanic and it seems to be a fuel/carb problem......my question is how hard is it to remove clean/rebuild carb with NO prior outboard repair experience????? Is this something i should be able to do on my own or would you guys recommend i just take it in and have a professional work on it?

Any info would be appreciated and thank you in advance

I agree it sounds like a carb issue but I'd also check the compression just to be sure. Cleaning carbs on these smaller outboards is fairly easy once you get it off. Some are more of a challenge to remove than others. They aren't much different than a carb on a honda lawn mower or motorcycle carbs, if you've ever torn in to one of those. Being a mechanic, I'd say you should be able to tackle it with no problem.

im sure it's not a compression problem but i will check it tomorrow....the carb looks like a pain to get off....think i have to remove the starter to get it out of there....thanks for you reply

Yes you will have to remove the starter which is the hardest part of the entire process.
I like to soak my carbs in paint thinner or pine sol over night. Pine Sol will make the carb look like new. After the carb soaks blow it out with a can of carb cleaner and then blow the carb out with compressed air.
Adjust the low speed needle about 1 1/8 turns out and fine tune it from there.

Ever rebuild a Rochester four barrel? An outboard carb is a walk in the park.

I was just sent a service manual from jim and it says in there do not soak it in a solvent due to coating that keeps the metal from getting porous?

Its funny i have never rebuilt a carb on a car....im only 28 years old and carbs on a cars are really a thing of the past that i have not had much experience with.....gotta love fuel injection! but on the other hand i own several dirtbikes and quads and have done some carb work on those....but those are about as basic as it gets! hell my harley is even fuel inected

Thanks for the info guys

I worked on my buddy's boat last summer that had the exact same motor.

As stated above, the starter is the hardest part of the whole process. Once you get the starter off, it's pretty simple and straight forward. To clean his carb, I just used a can of carb cleaner and some compressed air.

May look alittle different from your quad but its the same principle you won't have any trouble

I chickend out and took it to the local marine shop.....at least i know it will be done right...

I personally try to avoid use carb cleaner on an assembled carb. When I clean carbs I remove the bowl and any removable jets, needle valve and float. I'll soak it all in alcohol for a few hours and blow it out with air. If its still dirty I'll soak it again, overnight. Blow it out and reassemble. Very easy and cheap.

Only reason i stay away from carb cleaner is because I hear that it is bad on seals and plastics. Could be a rumor but I like to be safe.

vahunter said:

I personally try to avoid use carb cleaner on an assembled carb. When I clean carbs I remove the bowl and any removable jets, needle valve and float. I'll soak it all in alcohol for a few hours and blow it out with air. If its still dirty I'll soak it again, overnight. Blow it out and reassemble. Very easy and cheap.

Only reason i stay away from carb cleaner is because I hear that it is bad on seals and plastics. Could be a rumor but I like to be safe.

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I don't avoid using it, but I do avoid getting it on anything that's not metal without being sure I can get the part dried off very quickly. Like putting some on a rag and then wiping the tip of a float needle with the rag briefly, and then wiping the needle dry. And it's not a rumor about the effects it has on non metal items. I've belonged to a motorcycle forum for many years and some of the guys on there have done test and demos showing the results of different pieces exposed to it for prolonged periods. In some cases over night. While some of them were exaggerated, it was more to show the cumulative effects of exposure over time. Worst of all was probably the rubber parts like o-rings and rubber tips on needle valves.