Motor direction lock or travel restriction?

After almost going for a swim while out trolling, I'm wondering if there's any way to add some kind of a "motor direction lock" to an older motor like mine.

Usually I don't seem to have issues - but on Monday with the wind up and quite a bit of chop out I had an episode where I was reeling in a large sheep. Seemed simple like I've done a hundred times before; set course and speed on the tiller, stand up, prop the rod, remove the inline planer, continue reeling and net fish. Problem was, with the chop/wind/whatever the motor decided it didn't want to continue straight and turned instead. The combination of the unexpected turn with a wave and looking at the planer board instead of the horizon was what did it - got a little veritgo for a second and had to kneel to the bench.

I know my BIL's new Merc 9.9hp motor has a turn lock that will either lock the motor or greatly increase the amount of force necessary to turn it. I'd sure like to add this feature to my motor.

Any suggestions gang?

Glad you stayed dry, or at least in the boat!
I can't help with the turn lock, though I do use a bungee strap to hold the tiller is fixed position when I absolutely positively need to use both hands to get a cup of coffee. It is a different story when the boat is in a cross-wind or current...frequent tiller adjustment are necessary to maintain a fixed heading. At the least, I always have the kill-switch lanyard attached to the PFD, and the PFD on.

I know there's no hope of maintaining a heading when the waves are up and the wind is pushing if you're going to "ghost ride" the boat :lol: but honestly, I'm trolling at 2.4mph or less (usually less) so some drift is inevitable.

I'm just hoping to keep the motor from deciding that port looks better than straight on and wandering over - thus spinning the boat slightly into or out of the waves.

I was hoping for something a little more elegant than a bungee, but bungee's I've got! Now to see how I can mount it so it will be easily removable.

What motor?

Have you thought about just making a flip up bracket on both sides that just bolts to your transom mount?

One for each side with a wing nut on one and fixed bolt on the other. When you have the handle down you can just flip them up, pop the wing nut on and be done with it. All the while for safety reasons have an open top so if SHTF you can just lift the handle out of the clamp and get to turning.

Seems like a good idea to me.

Maybe I should just do custom Jon boat accessories?

Photo diagrams for understanding



Basically just a open turn lock that you can lift and turn if need be but will stay straight

Sorry I forgot the pivot, also add two wing nuts and bolts on the left and right to keep it straight.

You need to let use know what kind of motor you have.

There should be an adjustment for tiller friction.

1970's (?) Evinrude 7.5hp - Serial number E0008156. I did a lot of looking around at the motor to make sure it didn't have some kind of lever for the tiller friction (based on what I saw from the BIL's motor), and I couldn't find anything. It's pretty stripped down, no frills - weighs less than 40#'s I know.

BC i think you may be on to something, but nothing that complicated - I think a simple 4" spring clamp with an "L" bracket oriented so there's a "U" shape for the handle to rest in would be more than sufficient. Anything that could restrict movement and be easily by passed would be best - and I don't need a lot of restriction, just enough to keep it from wandering for 30-40sec or so.

Ultimately I just want to do it safely. If that's even possible. :?

I'm not that familiar with rude engines but looking through the parts diagrams, the first 7.5hp I could find was produced in 1980 using this site. https://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/41246.cfm In looking through the parts breakdown, there appears to be a steering friction setup of some sort with parts 31-33 etc.

JMichael said:

I'm not that familiar with rude engines but looking through the parts diagrams, the first 7.5hp I could find was produced in 1980 using this site. https://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/41246.cfm In looking through the parts breakdown, there appears to be a steering friction setup of some sort with parts 31-33 etc.

Click to expand...

That looks like the motor -

Looking at the exploded diagram the bushing/collar on the shaft only has two points for tension - either part#38 (screw on the backside of a spring) or #66, but that looks like the tilt lock though the shaft has enough length in the pic to reach the bushing/collar assembly.

I'll monkey around with both tonight and see where it gets me.

Thanks for the exploded pic! I couldn't find one for the life of me!

Go to Boats.net and find your engine. That's where I ordered all of my parts and they have the same diagram!

I have never had any complaints at all from them after 15+ orders they are fantastic and the shipping is fast and prices are reasonable.

Buddychrist said:

View attachment 1

Photo diagrams for understanding



Basically just a open turn lock that you can lift and turn if need be but will stay straight

Sorry I forgot the pivot, also add two wing nuts and bolts on the left and right to keep it straight.

Click to expand...

Forget that friction crap.
I want a detailed design for the warp drive, my 6hp rude will only hit 22 mph now with me, my cousin, uncle, brother and broinlaw in our 22 ft thompson. Warp drive is needed, under $50 if possible, thats all the obama money I got til next month.
Tim

:lol:

Man I wish I could get CLOSE to 22mph with my 7.5 - 15mph with a tailwind, stripped down on a mirror is more like it.

:lol:

I think with most OMC the screw is on the starboard side of the engine. Its a screw with a spring at the "hinge" of the motor

Yep, per the diagram it's the spring/screw combination (P#38), and of course it's down as tight as it could go - so either there's wear on the bushing collar (possible with a 20+ year old motor) or it's just at max tight and wasn't designed to go any tighter.

Played with it tonight, just a half turn off the screw makes movement REALLY EASY. Full tight makes it firm, but still loose enough that a good wave could move it's position with little effort.

Well, back to the drawing board. Thanks for the help, again, gang.

I know it's not the "approved" method, but you might try finding a longer replacement screw or removing the spring for now. Just until you can fix it properly at least. That extra ½ turn you gain from removing the spring might just get you by for a while.