1953 Evinrude lighttwin 3hp

I am having problems getting this baby to start within say 10-15 pulls, and then today for the first time it would die as soon as i pushed the choke back in, I believe (???) that the carburetor is clean, not sure if it is the external settings maybe for the highspeed and lowspeeds? by the time i started thinking about that my arms were to wore out to start it anymore and play with them. I have very minimal knowledge of these things so please feel free to make it Army proof for me

10-15 is too many.

Check points, condensor, and coils. Look at plugs and replace,not clean, them. This is the easy stuff.


Choke issue:
When starting, a very rich air/fuel mixture is required because cold fuel vaporizes slowly. The "choke" at the top of the carburetor provides the richer mixture by closing and "choking off" the carburetor's air supply. The choking effect also creates an area of low pressure inside the throat of the carburetor that helps to pull additional fuel through the main metering circuit.

Could be fouled plugs, or something which necessitates a richer fuel supply.

Start with plugs and points.

Best wishes.

GREAT 3 hp tune up-site. Print it out for your future reference.

https://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/evinrude%203%20hp%20lightwin%20outboard%20boat%20motor/Evinrude%20Johnson%203%20HP%201952-1967%20Carburetor%20Tune-UP.htm

cleaned and reset the points and now it is starting in 2-3 pulls, much better. also took out and reset the high speed and low speed needles, and it runs great, thanks for the help guys and that is a great website, just what the doctor ordered.

Make sure this engine is running on a 24:1 fuel mixture! It has bushings instead of roller bearings in it. A 50:1 mixture will wear this engine out fairly quickly. One of the key indicators is being hard to start. In your case you have found the issue but if not running the correct mixture it would be wise to change to it. Other things to check and change in that engine would be the impeller......an easy part change and well worth it. Check the tiny vent hole in the fuel cap and make sure it is completely clean and when you get the chance remove the screen in the tank and clean it. Good time to re pack the fuel valve with packing also.

i am running a 24:1 ratio, but that is not to say what it was before i got it. also the fuel valve, is that the piece that turns the fuel on and off? because that is only turning it to a slow drip, not off completly, i took it apart and didn't see a packing in it at all, that could very well be why thanks for the help pappy

Pappy?

seen a couple of different opinions on the old motors. One side says 24:1, but doesn't specify if it should be TC-W3 or chain saw 2-stroke oil. Others are adamant about it being the 2-stroke oil, because of the need for the lubrication over the slickness of the newer stuff.


Whaddya think?

Never use chain saw oil in a two stroke water cooled engine! That oil is designed for engines operating at very different running temps than what we have. The use of any engine manufacturers TCW3 oil at the ratio recommended for that engine's model year is what is recommended. Never go leaner. Plug fouling is simply not an issue.
If you are going back into the older opposed engines then the use of Aircraft ashless dispersant oil, such as Aeroshell, is a good alternative. That is around 50W oil and usually it is mixed at a ratio of around 16:1. I usually do a 50/50 mixture of that and TCW3 to keep the smoke down in those engines.

I am using marine 2 stroke oil, it says it is special for outboards, is this not the same as TCW 3? again thanks for the help guys, it's a learning curve for me, and i hope i learn before i ruin the motor so i appreciate all the help