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17ft'r

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I have a 18 hp Johnson. It has not been started for along time.
I pulled the (flywheel) to check the points and found the (outer) casing of the (coils) to be cracked,
Does that mean they will not function? Replacement cost is not that bad. I just don't know anything about outboard coils. Is this casing an (insulation)?

Anyway I would like to get your (take) on this condition.

Thanks in advance,

17ft'r
 
i would check the compression first. if the compression isnt good, then there is no use in repairing the motor.
pull the plugs, then pull the rope at least 3 pulls for each cylinder. compression should be with in 10%.

as for the coils, yes replace them and the points/condensers too. might as well add a carb rebuild kit and impeller for the water pump.

dino
 
The compression is great.
I am also wondering, (if) the spark plug "wires" look good, (do the ends) pull out of the coils when I replace the coils?

I am on the way to get the new coils now so I guess I'll find out how the wires go in, probably like an auto does?

Thanks for the answers,

17ft'r
 
if its cracked just replace it instead of fighting with it during the fishing season. or getting stranded on the water. while you are at it points and condensor too.
 
I seem to have the coils out of position. [-X
In not having the tool to set them properly, what is the next best trick?

I see a (machined) step just below the (base) of the coils and it seems I can (push) the coils inboard abit and I mean just abit to allow the (step & base of the coils to be flush. Is that the procedure?

I did not start the motor but just hand rotated it, but when I took off the (flywheel) I could see some (point of contact) from the coil to the ID of the flywheel the contact looks to be about .003 deep? is that a problem? :oops:

I need to blow out the metal flakes and clean the points and if you agree the above procedure is whats correct I'll see how that works. :)

Thanks,

17ft'r #-o
 
A picture of the coils in the 63" 18hp Johnson.
I am having fun working on the motor but I am not having fun uploading pictures of it, bear w/me.

The coil on the left is 7 - 12 yrs in the motor (not) running, the new is obviously on the right.
Replacing the coils and cleaning up abit made the motor run great coming out of its (shed hybernation). The points I reset and the condensers I took a chance on since they did not sell them without the points.

Next business is to boil the carb and rebuild and take the boat to the water.

Thanks,

17ft'rCOILS(1).jpg
 
That machined step is the line up indicator for you. Make the coil laminations vertically parallel with that boss. your indicator will be to watch the mag plate while rotating the flywheel. If it stays stationary the flywheel is not hitting. Check spark with a 1'4" gap. Spark should be crisp and blue.
Make sure the engine is run on 24:1 fuel oil mix.
Replace all soft parts in the carb with a new OEM kit.
Water pump absolutely needs to be serviced. Rule of thumb is that if you can hook a fingernail in the upper or lower plate grooving then it is time for a complete pump assembly.
 
I will be using a (carb cleaning) kit put out by "Gunk" it came with a basket and the solution that has words I can not even pronounce.
I have cleaned with before after removing any and all gasket matl. rubber etc. it does a good job.

17ft'r
 
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