water/fuel separator

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scoobeb

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I'm installing a new water/fuel separator in my boat,the thing is i need to know do you install the fuel line with the primer bulb before the fuel filter or after the filter?Maybe it doesn't matter,who knows but i like to know how most people install them.It's going on a 20hp 4stroke suzuki.Thanks.
 
Here is a pic of the unit i'm installing.
 

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I would think it should go after the bulb, so fuel gets pushed into it.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=343314#p343314 said:
lckstckn2smknbrls » Yesterday, 23:37[/url]"]I would think it should go after the bulb, so fuel gets pushed into it.

I agree, it better to push a liquid through a filter rather than to pull it .
 
So going on the inlet(in arrow) is the fuel line with the primer bulb,then on the outlet(out arrow) to the fuel tank just use the remaining straight line that was cut in half.

What stinks is the fuel line is long but from the actual gas tank to the bulb is like 4ft and then that leaves like not even barely 2ft after the bulb so the bulb will be close to the filter,i don't know why they just don't put the primer bulb right in the middle.
 
your fuel line track should be from tank to bulb from bulb to filter from filter to motor
You can get fuel line to make the length you need at the auto parts store, I think I paid .43 a ft for it
 
Ok so i have some people saying put the bulb before and after the filter,now i'm confused :? .I guess i'm just going to have to look on the net,maybe it doesn't matter which way it goes.
 
no you are reading it wrong everyone has said the bulb before the filter like I am saying
line runs from your tank to the bulb from bulb to the filter from the filter to the motor
 
Got it.I have been looking on youtube to find someone who shows how to install a fuel/water system,i got better then that.I watched several people change their filters and it showed how it was hooked up,you got it,all of them ran the line with the bulb up to the inlet(the primer bulb was actually like 6inches away from the inlet arrow) and the rest of the remaining like 2 feet of hose was ran from the outlet to the engine.Thanks for all the help.
 
Sorry one more question?I am going to mount it on the back of my transom as we all know it's just a bit slanted,will that affect the way it works or can it be mounted on a slight slant with no issues?That seems to be the only place i can put it to keep it out of the way of everything.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=343780#p343780 said:
scoobeb » Yesterday, 05:58[/url]"]Sorry one more question?I am going to mount it on the back of my transom as we all know it's just a bit slanted,will that affect the way it works or can it be mounted on a slight slant with no issues?That seems to be the only place i can put it to keep it out of the way of everything.

I'm sure that will be fine.
 
Slanted is fine

Always carry and extra filter and o-ring - they will dry out / go bad usually at the worst possible moment (and never before you launch and are 1/2 way across the lake :)
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=343968#p343968 said:
Captain Ahab » 06 Mar 2014, 12:24[/url]"]Slanted is fine

Always carry and extra filter and o-ring - they will dry out / go bad usually at the worst possible moment (and never before you launch and are 1/2 way across the lake :)


Aint that the truth !, 1/2 way across the lake on when your down river from the ramp with an OUT going tide :LOL2: :LOL2: :LOL2:
 
Ok i'm confused on what you mean by the oring.The only oring is on the filter itself which is disposable after i throw the whole filter out in 6mths.Unless i'm missing something.That's the only oring i see on the whole kit.I don't understand how it could dry out in 3 to 6mths.Your suppose to coat it with oil before you put it on to so how would it dry out unless your talking about something else i'm missing.
 
some filters come with a clear cup on the bottom that can be removed and drained giving the filter a longer life
the one you have is fine replace it every year and your fine
 
I just changed all the factory clamps on my fuel line and installed a new visible
fuel filter up near the engine so it would hang vertical .... like the primer pump bulb was.
Now that there is more fuel line, the primer bulb now lays almost horizontal and it took
me almost FOREVER to get it primed again .....
I took the primer bulb completely apart to find the problem ....
all my years boating with this OMC primer bulb, I always thought there was a spring
that held the check ball in place.
Also, inside the bulb is a bladder,,,, similar to a football air bladder. so the fuel never
actually touches the outside rubber bulb.
WELL GUESS WHAT BOYS N GURLS !!!!!
there is NO spring in the primer pump bulb check valves ... only two plastic balls (one in each end)
that allows the fuel to only flow one way .... there is NO SPRING to keep it in place.
so, as I have seen in other posts .... the primer bulb must be held in the VERTICAL position
to get a good prime. This allows the check valve balls to activate with gravity.
After the prime is established with pressure in the bulb, then the line can lay down horizontal.
 

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I got it all hooked up and it works great,i didn't know how tight to make it,it said only a 2/3 turn after the gasket hits the metal part and it was so loose after a 2/3 extra turn so i tightened down a bit more.I know the system works on pressure but i also don't want it to leak either.

I have one small issue not related to this but maybe someone can chime in.I have an electric start but i just don't have room for the battery right now,i have to rig it up later.It says when the engine is running to make sure the 2 terminal leads don't touch each other.Can i just put some liquid electric tape over the both of them so if they hit they won't interfere?Will that work or do i need something else to put over the ends?
 

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