15 HP gamefisher problem

I bought a boat used that had been sitting for several years with this motor and took it out for the first time and had trouble with it.

The guy said he pulled apart the carb and cleaned it, but did not rebuild it. He put in new plugs and a new gas line and primer bulb. When I looked at it, he ran the motor on a hose collar and he kept it revved up pretty high but didn't think much about it. There was about a 1/2 or 3/4 gallon of gas in the tank that he said was just bought.

I bought non ethanol gas, marine stabil and quiksilver oil and topped up the gas tank. (Should have thrown out the old gas)

First time out I had a heck of time getting it started. When I finally did get it going it would choke itself down unless I kept it revved up.

The bulb got firm at first but later would not get firm. At one point I removed the hood and noticed a little fuel had leaked out of somewhere.

Eventually I got it running well enough to leave the dock and it was difficult to shift in gear due to needing to keep the rpms up ... I had to pick my moment to idle it down to shift. When I finally got it going forward and I opened up the throttle it would want to go and then start bogging down... then get going a little and then bog down again.

Also I noticed the fitting between the gas line and tank would leak a little when priming the bulb. Not gushing out but noticeable. Could this introduce air and keep it from picking up enough fuel? I have ordered some form-a-gasket to correct this.

Sorry this is rambling, hopefully it makes sense. Any ideas on what I should do?

I'm really hoping correcting the leaking fuel fitting will make it work better, but I can't imagine that's the only problem.

I'd go just like you are and get any potential air leaks fixed with the fuel system. If that doesn't solve the problem I'd look into rebuilding the carb next. IMO the poor running at low RPM's was probably already present when you bought it and the main reason he ran it at high RPM's for you.

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=343692#p343692 said:

JMichael » 04 Mar 2014, 17:03[/url]"]I'd go just like you are and get any potential air leaks fixed with the fuel system. If that doesn't solve the problem I'd look into rebuilding the carb next. IMO the poor running at low RPM's was probably already present when you bought it and the main reason he ran it at high RPM's for you.

Click to expand...

I agree 100%

clean and rebuild the carb and i bet all your problems go away.

Yeah I should have had him idle it down... foolish on my part.

Could that small of an air leak cause the problem? I'm hoping so.

I guess I should have mentioned I am not familiar with working on outboards or even small engines, but I am fairly handy, so hopefully I can figure this out. I have a week long trip coming up soon and need to get this motor running right.

It only takes a tiny air leak in the fuel system to cause you more problems and headaches than you'll want to see again for a long time to come.

a small airleak would make the motor run faster at idle speed, not cut out at idle. as i read your post, the connector connecting the tank and gas line is leaking? why not just get a barb fitting and hose clamp to connect the fuel line directly to the tank. any auto part store will have these. form a gasket likely wont do anything to help the fitting problem. there are internal o rings that break down. likewise, the fitting connectors are only a few dollars.

Thanks.

The brass male connection that the hose clamps to is fine but the plastic piece on the tank is cracked. I took it apart, carefully cleaned out the Teflon tape (ughhh) and hit it good with the form a gasket. Once connected, the plastic fitting still had some visible cracks so I forced some of the form a gasket into them.

Hopefully that will allow it work well enough to tell if that was the problem. I found a withdrawal assembly on amazon that will replace the problem piece, but its $10-11. The gas cap gasket has also deteriorated, $12-13 replacement. The float/gauge also doesnt work (not that big of a deal though).

All this to say, I'm going to replace the tank. There's nowhere local to buy the same tank (only the suction vented type that I've heard don't work well). Has anyone used the automatic suction vent type of tank?

Ok so good news is the form a gasket is holding. Bad news is I'm still having problems. It ran a little then shut off, now nothing.

I fiddled with the carb adjustment screw and now it won't even fire a little. I tried in and out and then back to where it was. Nada

I took the spark plugs out. They were filthy. Very gunked up with black junk. I cleaned them with a toothbrush and put them on the wire, pulled the cord and they both have spark. Put the plugs back in and pulled the cord. Nothing doing at all.

Took the carb off. Float is fine. Needle is fine. Seat seems fine best I can tell. The gasket needs to be replaced because it is cut completely through making it a big C shape instead of a ring.

Obviously the gasket needs to be replaced but will this cause it to not run? I can't figure why it was running and now it won't.

OK got the carb all cleaned up and reinstalled. Got a new gasket from the cub cadet dealer .... not a perfect fit but it looks like it will make a good seal. Hopefully I put it back together properly.

A small engine mechanic (doesn't do outboards) told me to adjust the tab on the float so that when the carb is held upside down the float is level/parallel with the housing. Hopefully that is correct because I made the adjustment. I bent the tab on the float up (existing condition had the end away from the :hinge well above parallel when upside down). The needle has a lot more travel now depending on the gas level in the carb.

Going to buy new sparkplugs tomorrow and hopefully that did the trick.

Pretty bummed right now.... got the new plugs put in and after a few pulls it seemed to want to crank.

Then I pulled the rope again and it didn't retract. Pulled that mechanism apart and the spring stripped out a little plastic piece that holds the spring in position so it can build tension

marineengine.com should have what you need I thing 25$ I was looking at them last night. I own a 25 force these engines are very similar

Well... pretty pleased with myself right now haha.

I bent the male end of the spring into a hook and slipped it through the plastic piece. Looks like it will be a better solution than the factory brass collar on it.

Pulled it a few times and it fired up and idled very good.

Took it to the lake today and it ran great. 17 mph top speed and planes very quickly.

I was THIS close to buying a new outboard because I have a trip coming up at the end of the month.