WOW! Somebody had a bad day.

Recently acquired Tohatsu m25c2. Any suggestions other than a new lower unit?
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1393982538688.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1393982583041.jpg[/attachment]

Straighten with an adjustable wrench and add this
https://simage1.sportsmansguide.com/adimgs/l/2/206103_ts.jpg

If the housing isn't cracked then it's rebuildable. It's generally cheaper to rebuild vs brand new lower unit. If the gears and every thing works fine I would just bend the skeg back and put a protective cover on it.

My skeg is also probably that bad (previous owner) but I was afraid to try and straighten it because I was afraid I would break it off. Other than that it seems ok, thinking that heating it would screw up the seals too. Thought of taking it to a prop repair place to see if it would be a simple job for them.
Tim

huntinfool said:

Straighten with an adjustable wrench and add this
https://simage1.sportsmansguide.com/adimgs/l/2/206103_ts.jpg

Click to expand...

Tried straightening with a dead blow hammer. Didn't get too wild, but it's a little better. I really hate beating on anything that is cast.

Most any shop the repairs aluminum props will fix it. Typically they will simply cut it off and weld a new skeg on.

This is the guy that I use for my props.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVS6qfveLG4

They use a backer and a dead blow to straighten the skag. If it is not leaking, leave it.

I've straighten out quit a few skegs like that. If you have a 6'' C-clamp and a couple of 4 or 5 ft (longer is better ) 2x4's , Clamp 2x4's together with skeg in the middle like a sandwich. Tilt the motor way up put the boards in line with the motor. ( like its an extension of the skeg ) This part is kinda hard to explain but grab the very end and bounce the 2x4's in the right direction to straighten it out. Kinda like 1,2,3, and on 4 push it a bit more. Don't be in a rush and take your time. It will take several trys, move it a LITTLE at a time. Be careful not to go too far on 4 or it will snap . If it does snap,well you're no worse off that taking it to a prop shop cause they're going to cut it off anyway.

Like the old saying goes: "It's easy to bend metal, the hard part is bending it back."


I tend to use a really big adjustable wrench for these procedures. The trick is to get the skeg to bend back along the same line. Otherwise you wind up with an 'S' shaped skeg. By varying how much the jaw is open on the wrench you adjust where the force is applied. Try to start around the heaviest cross section and finish up with the thinnest. You can even use two such wrenches together. Like was mentioned, take your time and work carefully.

Lower unit housings are very precise. The gear-trains inside are shimmed exactly within thousandths. I can't visualize a long bead of hot weld along one side without a lot of distortion. The amount of heat would destroy seals too. If you have to take it all apart anyway; why put it all back together into a twisted housing. If careful straightening won't do the trick, I'd start looking for another housing.

I removed the lower unit as I needed to replace the water pump too. I then placed the scag on top of a 2 X 4 and beat it with a small sledge. The skag straightened right out without using heat.

Well......how'd I do?

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1394237351554.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1394237362474.jpg[/attachment]


Used a 2x4 backer and a 2# dead blow. Good enough for me....for now.

Thanks for all the advice guys, I really appreciate it.

Looks **** good to me waterman =D> good job !!

Looks pretty straight to me.