Outboard initial set up

Hello everyone.
I have a build going on another forum and am close to the end.
My question is setting up the outboard angle initially.
When I bought the boat and ran it last summer she seemed to plow a bit before getting on plane, only got to about 22 mph yet acted like she wanted to go more.

1968 Mirro Craft, 14' Deep Fisherman.
2001 Johnson 2-cycle outboard.

The motor was originally set up one hole above the middle one, seems to extreme.
Advice is welcome at this point.

What was your question as you didn't really ask one? Aren't you able to adjust the trim to find your best ride??? You'll have to stop the boat every time to adjust it since you don't have PT&T.

You can get a powertrim for that engine. Panther model 25.

Using the tilt pin only...it's experiment time. The tilt pin adjusts the thrust angle of the outboard. Every boat/motor rig is different. Only the operator can decide which setting works best.

There are only a couple of really usable choices for pin setting. After trying them out, you will quickly see the best 'compromise' for all around use. Tilt pin setting, prop selection, and boat loading all have to work together to fine tune the rig.

Worst thing here is dropping the pin while you are changing it's position. Not so bad in 2 feet of water...

Here are a couple of videos. The boat is similar to yours: 14ft Mirrocraft rowboat. The engine is similar too. Note GPS readings. This boat liked the second and third tilt pin locations. It was faster in the third hole out. It handled better on the second hole out.


https://www.dropshots.com/boat2fast#albums/Running Videos/2011-05-17/14:27:44

https://www.dropshots.com/boat2fast#albums/Running Videos/2011-05-17/14:33:46

If asked, use guest password: twist'er

Start with the motor perpendicular to the bottom of the boat and go from there.

The bottom picture looks like the best starting point to me.

Every boat is a little different, though.

-TH

something I have run into on mine is that one pin hole is too far in, causing "plowing" and the very next hole out is too far out, causing porpoising. I found some round spacers that fit over the pin and tilt the motor about halfway between the 2 holes, and it's "almost" perfect.

PT&T is where it's at. Infinite, and you will have tilt with a button. If I could afford one, I'd have one.

turbotodd said:

something I have run into on mine is that one pin hole is too far in, causing "plowing" and the very next hole out is too far out, causing porpoising. I found some round spacers that fit over the pin and tilt the motor about halfway between the 2 holes, and it's "almost" perfect.

PT&T is where it's at. Infinite, and you will have tilt with a button. If I could afford one, I'd have one.

Click to expand...

Yes, I have had hulls that did this too. Unfortunately it's almost impossible to predict how a hull will behave. Until you buy it, power it, and run it fast...it's all just guesswork. Hulls that plow or porpoise consistently are usually fitted with a small engine and relegated to fishing duty. Hulls that prove to 'fly' straight and fast are valued highly. A good hull has a tendency to lift the bow without the porpoise affect.

Even with a great running hull there are limits. Power trim extends these limits. Like TT said, it's a worthy investment if you need to run light and fast.

If you want to go slow and stay on plane, trim in. If you want to bring the bow up for top speed, trim out. If you need to make a fast corner, trim it back in. Gotta love power trim.