1962 Elgin (Sears) 14.1 HP resuscitation

Hello; new to the boards but have followed the 'project' forum for a while...Love It!



I recently picked up a 1962 Elgin (Sears) Outboard.
6013 / Model no. 574.60131
Serial no. 62601410-3534
1962 McCulloch 12hp/14.1hp(@5000rpm)

It was seized from sitting in the owner's basement for 20+ years.
He said it was running fine when he put it away.

I soaked the pistons in a 50:50 2-cycle/fuel mix overnight and was able to turn the flywheel by hand the next day.
Propeller spins freely in neutral and the flywheel turns the propeller in both directions with ease
I have drained the gear oil and it is shiny black.

My list of rehab includes, but is not limited to...
1. Clean the carb and replace the fuel lines
- Carter Type N; 3198 or 3199 unable to narrow it down any further
2. Replace the gear oil with Penzoil Synthetic
3. Replace the spark plugs with Champion or AC/Delco equivalent
4. Check compression and spark
5. If all goes well, mix some fuel and test it in the big recycle bin


Hoping to get some ideas on what else I may need/want to do to get this motor on the water.
Carb kit, Magnetos, etc

Hope to get this running by the time I finish putting the deck on my 14' Jon; got some bent up street signs from public works.

You may want to check the spark before continuing on.

Might as well check the compression as well.

Pistons that have rusted in place may have stuck rings. Even though the pistons are now moving, the rings could be rusted tight in their grooves. This can quickly ruin the pistons, rings, and bores. The rusty residue can also quickly ruin parts.

This is a difficult situation because there is no real good way to clean up the mess without taking the whole engine apart, cleaning/inspecting all the parts, and reassembling with new gaskets and seals.

The other things that can give trouble are the crank seals. If they leak air, they will disrupt the low-speed mixture for the closest cylinder. Rubber seals from the 50s and 60s and ethanol fuel often make trouble. New seals at least would give a running start and let the engine serve for a while.

In for a penny, in for a pound.

Would a shot of 'Seafoam' help in a case this. Check 'Search' at the top of the page. Might help you.

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=351446#p351446 said:

SumDumGuy » 06 May 2014, 13:09[/url]"]You may want to check the spark before continuing on.

Might as well check the compression as well.

Click to expand...

Tested the spark...during repeated pulls
Top plug has the flickering amber light on the tester during each pull
Bottom plug has the amber light, but it just blinks on, then off on each pull

Removed the flywheel and tested the condensers...

From How to test bad capacitor with digital multimeter?
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17592 - Badcaps Forums

Reverse the leads - watch the resistance go low and then go high.
Should go over 20kOhms and more is better.
[This is cap discharging then charging in the reverse direction.
-
Reverse the leads again - watch the resistance go low low and then go high again.
Should go over 20kOhms and more is better.
[This is cap discharging then charging in the other direction.]

Click to expand...

Condenser on the 'top' plug performs exactly as the poster inidcated
Condenser on the 'bottom' plug just flashes a value and goes blank

Does this sound right to any of you?
I do not have much experience with capacitors/condensers, but I'm inclined to think one, at least one of them is bad.

Note:
There is good continuity, from where the point attaches to the condenser, to where the plug wire is attached to the coil.
However, I get no reading from the coil to the plug wire end that attaches to the plug, on either wire.

Cleaned and set the points.
Compression checks out at 100psi @ cylinder
Actually started up but died.

Carb/fuel related?

Should no be much to rebuild the carb and fuel pump, so I will start there.
I will also replace the bad condenser.

You have yet to mention the impeller.
Change it at the least or the complete pump assy if needed.
All the work you are putting into it can go up in smoke pretty quick on a 50 year old impeller.
Clean and rebuild the carb.
As far as the rings go....they may indeed be stuck but run a heavy fuel/oil mix and run your favorite de-carbon agent straight down the carb when the engine is warm. Lots of it....meaning at least half a can then let it soak in the engine overnight. Keep the engine at the RPM where it will almost but not quite stall when shooting it down the throat.

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=352496#p352496 said:

Pappy » 16 May 2014, 09:32[/url]"]You have yet to mention the impeller.
Change it at the least or the complete pump assy if needed.
All the work you are putting into it can go up in smoke pretty quick on a 50 year old impeller.
Clean and rebuild the carb.
As far as the rings go....they may indeed be stuck but run a heavy fuel/oil mix and run your favorite de-carbon agent straight down the carb when the engine is warm. Lots of it....meaning at least half a can then let it soak in the engine overnight. Keep the engine at the RPM where it will almost but not quite stall when shooting it down the throat.

Click to expand...

Thanks Pappy,
I was hoping to get it running before started taking it apart.
I made a temporary diaphragm; the old one was cracked and brittle

Now the motor starts and runs


This leak is troubling; looks like fuel/oil diluted with water


Carb is clean and functioning properly accept...
The Main screw needle is loose and will vibrate open if you don't pay attention.
If I turn it all the way closed, the motor will not start/run. Turn it any more than 1-turn and it just vibrates until its wide open.

Your recommendation?
1. Change impellers; this model has two
2. Change ALL lower seals; there is not water in the gear oil

As far as the needle goes it should have a packing around the needle. Is there a nut that the needle goes through? if so tighten it up.
Didn't know there were two impellers in that one. Yes both should be changed.
Don't know about the leak until you pinpoint it and go from there.
I see you have a Johnson/Evinrude dealer near you judging from the fuel line.
You may have to visit www.aomci.org and go in the ask-a-member section to find someone with impellers or at least a lead to them.