1986 35 HP Johnson Seahorse Electric Start - Questions

Hi there,

Been following this group for awhile and decided to join up.

I just purchased. 14 foot aluminum boat (soon to be project as i plan to install deck and seats) which came with. 1986 35 HP Johnson Seahorse, electric start motor. Previous owner said it was running well and just stopped running after he replaced the water pump, impeller, fuel lines and spark plugs.

I just pulled the cover off the engine, and it looks like some mice got into it - no issues as I plan on tearing down the carb and cleaning it up. However, there is a red lever on what I assume is the fuel solenoid, what is this for (cut off?? By pass??) and what position should it be in?

Any help is welcome!

That is a primer solenoid.
Fuel/pressure from the fuel pump is delivered via a tee to the solenoid.
When the key is pushed in during any key "ON" time the solenoid is activated and will free flow fuel to the back of the carburetor/intake manifold.
The red lever is a manual by-pass and should be kept inline with the body of the primer solenoid during normal operation.

Thanks.

Correction to my earlier post, it is a 1984 Johnson 35 Seahorse.

Cleaned the engine today and got it to start. A few questions:

A. The red lever on the solenoid when put in line on the motor, the motor will not start. When put 90. Degrees the motor starts. Is this indicative of problems with the solenoid?

B. Running rich. The motor seems to run very rich and stalls out at a slow idle.

Unfortunately I do not have the servicing manual and am "going with the basics" to clean it up and get it into working order.

Any help is appreciated.

That sounds like a problem with your carburetor being blocked. The red lever for the solenoid is allowing fuel to by-pass the carburetor jets. The reason for the red lever is to be able to pull-start the engine from a cold start with no battery. You would turn the red lever on the solenoid, wrap a rope around the flywheel and start the motor. Once it's running, you would flip the lever back inline with the solenoid.

If you leave it open, it will certainly run rich. The purpose of the choke solenoid is to richen the mixture so that the motor can start. I had the same issue when I first bought my boat. The motor would only run when the choke was open, and it would not idle. I took apart my carbs and found evidence of gelled fuel. The main jets were completely blocked.

I cleaned the carbs well and haven't had an issue since.

I would do a complete tear-down and rebuild on your carbs.

Good luck!

Thanks for the reply.

Looks like I am off to buy a few cans or carb cleaner, and piss off the wife as I spend the evening stripping down the carb.

Is your choke solenoid working? You should be able to hear it click when pushing in on the key.

Stripped and cleaned the carborator then did the same thing to the solenoid, reassembled it and she started on second turn.

Quick question for the forum, the idle screw on the front of the carborator.....what is the recommended start position for adjusting idle? For example, screw in all the way and back off two turns?

Any help is welcome

id start with 1 1/4 turns out and start there... make very very small adjustments after that until your about 600-700 rpm's. also after each very small adjustment wait about 30 seconds for the motor to respond to each adjustment... nice motor!!!! do not turn it in very hard at all before backing off the 1 1/4 turns, just seat it gently. if you nick the sharp point of the needle its ruined...

Took the boat out on the water tonight, runs very well at high speed. It seems very rough at the idle, so I have adjusted the lean/rich adjustment back 2 1/2 turns, still runs rough.
Any ideas?

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=353235#p353235 said:

DaveB496 » Yesterday, 20:18[/url]"]Took the boat out on the water tonight, runs very well at high speed. It seems very rough at the idle, so I have adjusted the lean/rich adjustment back 2 1/2 turns, still runs rough.
Any ideas?

Click to expand...

2 1/2 turns is too much... im surprised it ran at all. you may have another issue going on. johnny25 will chime in sooner or later and he knows these motors very well. I would do a rebuild on the carb for sure if you have not already.....but like I said 2 1/2 turns backed out on my 1980 25hp and I know my motor would not even start... both our motors are for the most part exactly the same besides the lower units, exhaust tubes and the carbs. same carb but your throat is just a bit bigger making it able to feed more fuel and that's where you get ten more horsepower.

This motor is driving me to drink (well actually I stopped to have a beer).
Starts great with 1/3 throttle (starting lever)
Runs great at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full out
When you stop to idle , it begins to run rough, and sputter. I have taken out the rich/lean needle, ensured the area was clean and rest it at 1 1/4 turns, I have worked it from 3/4 to 2 full turns out, and the motor still continues to idle rough and cough.

Any ideas?