Eliminate hood rattle

1955 Evinrude 7.5.

Seen its share of days.

However, the hood rattle is killing me...

At low speed and idle, it is just like someone jackhammering it...

At full throttle, it seems to just disappear and hum like it should...

Was thinking two things...

1. try to tighten the clamps of the hood by either bending the hooking mechanism and or locking mechanism.

2. Adding some sort of exterior grade weather stripping to the hood where the two pieces meet...

Anyone?

Buy new rubber hood mounts for it....Simple as that!

https://www.nymarine.ca/bumpersandstraps.htm

Sincerely hope you are running that engine on no less than 24:1 fuel/oil mix. 20:1 even better.

I have had this discussion before...and I have heard it from all angles...

I think I am actually running it at 50:1 with fuel stabilizer and some special Evinrude/Johnson outboard 2 cycle oil.

I think 24:1 would be too rich.

I have a buddy who runs a early 70's Johnson 25hp who runs the same ratio...

We both noticed that with 24:1 or there abouts, things start to get gunked up...

Thanks for the tip on the rubber mounts... will look at mine and see what shape they are in.

That's too little oil. Try 33:1 or 40:1. You can find a sweet spot. Most power in a two stroke is made at 16:1 but good luck keeping it running. Mine likes 40:1. I've got some good 3M medical grade weather strip if you need a hunk. It's 3/8" wide and 1/4 thick.

So, is Stumpalump or your buddy going to pay for the repairs to the engine when it blows?

Which one of your buddies (or Stumpalump) knows what the differences are between a plain bearing engine and a fully jeweled engine? And why there is a need for the extra oil on one of the above listed engines?
Are you aware of the differences of factory recommended ratios between an engine manufactured in the 1950's vs one manufactured in the 1970's? Differences in bearing materials and design, piston materials, # and type of piston rings, and design, etc. ? And, no, the oil is not that much better these days.

The 1955 7 1/2hp already has a reputation for throwing #1 rod out the side as it is. Am sure your buddy was aware of that as well though. Maybe stumpalump was?

It amazes me that people will post an answer, not knowing the proper information to back that answer, that may cause further damage to an engine rather than defer to those who may be better informed.

Your best bet at this point would be to a site located at https://www.aomci.org That is the website for antique and vintage engine experts. Tell them what you have and see what they recommend for an all important oil ratio for your particular engine.
When you get to the site go to the ask-a-member section and post away. This will give you, at this point, an unbiased opinion. At least do yourself a favor and try and learn something about your old classic!
Or you may want to do a search on the profiles of people here who post and try and help to see what their qualifications are....just a thought.

Am done.

fwiw - 16:1 is what I would run.

16:1? Where are you buying non detergent straight 30? Some call for 40. Today it's sold as compressor oil if your looking. If you run that or any other oil at that ratio you are running as lean an air fuel mix as you can. You are also coking up your engine ports and exhaust. Lean is hot and coked up is hotter. Heat blows engines. Running less oil is a richer fuel mixture so rejet or find a sweet spot compromise as I suggested. PITA no mater how you look at it. Old tcw3 was crap. It was biodegradable two stroke oil only for use in water cooled outboards. Run the old stuff 50:1 and you were on you own. Today's oil is actually backward compatible to even cover air cooled engines. It may not say it but it is. Read between the lines and if does not burn up in air cooled then it's staying oil in your outboard a whole lot longer thru the combustion process because it's water cooled. Translation..You don't need as much. But the internet and pappy knows best so run what the web says or call the engineers at the major oil company's laboratories. If you call customer service you will get a nice person reading from a script prepared by sales and marketing. If you want the guy mixing the oil that will be released in a few years you need the lab. To get that you need the MSDS sheet. Call that number on any chemical and you will get the phone to the desk of those in the know. In the case of oil it's the oil lab. Here is a good one... Guess what oil the mobil one engineered told me to run in every flat tapped cam engine below the artic circle year round? 15w50. Call them and be creative to get answers. What will blow you away are the things taken as gospel on the web that are really wrong.

opcorn:

16:1 simply equals 8 ounces of oil to 1 gallon of fuel. Why would I run 30W?
De-carb once or twice a year, no issues, motor runs great and it will definitely not die due to lack of lubrication (heat, due to carbon buildup, is also not an issue).
BTW this is on a '55 10hp. Although not always strictly 16:1, I never run it higher than 24:1 and usually it is somewhere between the two ratios.

A fully jeweled engine means all moving surfaces have ball/needle bearings? Am I right, am I?

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=359082#p359082 said:

SumDumGuy » 10 Jul 2014, 12:21[/url]"]16:1 simply equals 8 ounces of oil to 1 gallon of fuel. Why would I run 30W?
De-carb once or twice a year, no issues, motor runs great and it will definitely not die due to lack of lubrication (heat, due to carbon buildup, is also not an issue).
BTW this is on a '55 10hp. Although not always strictly 16:1, I never run it higher than 24:1 and usually it is somewhere between the two ratios.

A fully jeweled engine means all moving surfaces have ball/needle bearings? Am I right, am I?

Click to expand...

Your right. It may have come from Timken since they made the bearings. It was not exclusive to outboards. I hear it on the Yesterday's tractor website from time to time. I don't fool with old cars but they may use the term as well. If you say jeweled today outside of old boat or tractor terms it means decorative tooling like scrollwork on a shotgun. You may hear jeweled Harley cylinders where they doll up the cooling fins with machine work.

Decorated stuff.... that is funny (guess it makes sense).

I did see an old chainsaw advertisement that listed the motor as "jeweled."