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Kustrud

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Braselton GA
Hey guys, new here, picking up a 2015 War Eagle 648 tomorrow. I need a motor and some places have a 25 HP limit. Found a 1972 Chrysler the guy says it runs great. I'm pretty good with motors and mechanics, but not too familiar with outboards. Is this too old to bother with or if it's in good shape should I be OK? I can get it with a gas tank for $300.
 
Hello, I don't have much experience with chrysler outboards but I have heard that it can be hard to get parts for those motors that are earlier than 1975 or 74. Not sure if that is true but I would look to see if they still make impellers, ignition parts, and carb kits just in case something goes bad down the line. Also, even if parts are available and the motor runs good, I think $300 is a bit high. Where I'm from a motor like that would probably go for $200 or so but your market may be different. Best of luck with your new purchases!
 
The ignition system is points & condenser not electronic just like the old cars had points distributors. Some people like them but I prefer electronic. However, that wouldn't deter me from buying it if the price was right & it was in good shape.
 
Ok so I did some research. No thanks on the Chrysler. How about this? Anyone know what year this would roughly be? I'm thinking mid to late 70's, the guy doesn't know but just from the pics it wasn't used hard. Anyone know anything about this motor please let me know. Good era? Stay away? Still get parts? Easy/cheap to fix? Thanks!

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/boa/4812634887.html
 
Well my personal preference is the old Johnson's and Evinrude's. What ever you buy you should run a compression check. Tune up parts are readily available for the old OMC motors and they are easy to work on if you buy a manual. Good move staying away from the Chrysler and Force motors in my opinion. I like the old Mercury's also but they are harder for me to work on.
 
Kustrud said:
Hey guys, new here, picking up a 2015 War Eagle 648 tomorrow. I need a motor and some places have a 25 HP limit. Found a 1972 Chrysler the guy says it runs great. I'm pretty good with motors and mechanics, but not too familiar with outboards. Is this too old to bother with or if it's in good shape should I be OK? I can get it with a gas tank for $300.

STAY AWAY!
Chrysler's are in general a real B*tch to find parts for & when you do, it's usually bend over time $$. Plus, the Chrysler Marine division went belly up almost 30 years ago. Not a big fan of older Mercs either (mid 70's-80's), the parts aren't as hard to find as a Chrysler but, they sure ain't cheap either (usually). Even though I've never owned a "Force" motor, I've heard more often than not, that they're just crap. Imo better to stick to the 1978 & newer Evinrudes & Johnsons (dependable IF they've been at least halfway cared for). Most "JohnnyRudes" are pretty easy to find parts for & the parts generally won't bust your bank account either. OR...If money isn't too much of an issue, it's really tough to beat a Honda 4 stroke (of almost any year). I currently own a 25hp Mariner & a 40hp Nissan (both non-tiller) & so far I love both.
 
Thanks and that's kinda what I'm gathering from reading as well. So help me here, I want to spend around $500 and will spend up to $1,000 on a good deal/motor. What should I look for and where can I look besides CL?
 
Kustrud said:
Ok so I did some research. No thanks on the Chrysler. How about this? Anyone know what year this would roughly be? I'm thinking mid to late 70's, the guy doesn't know but just from the pics it wasn't used hard. Anyone know anything about this motor please let me know. Good era? Stay away? Still get parts? Easy/cheap to fix? Thanks!

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/boa/4812634887.html
That appears to be a 1974 model. I acquired a 75 model a few years back. Converted it from remote to tiller steer and added electric start (not that it needed it, it started so easy). After sprucing it up a bit and running it for one season, I decided I wanted more power on my boat. I found a Mariner 25hp and ended up selling my Merc to a friend. He's been running it hard for 2 years now and last I spoke to him, he said it was still purring like a kitten.



I had to search ebay for most of the parts I needed but they weren't difficult to find. You just have to be willing to use second hand parts for some things like the tiller, but water and fuel pump kits/parts were easy to find and from what I could tell, comparably priced to other mfg parts. BTW, I sold that motor for $650 as it appears in the pic.
 
Keep your eyes out for a Yamaha.

3 cylinder 25 would be ideal (basically a de-tuned 30hp). But a twin cylinder twin carb 25 is a really lightweight motor that, if cared for, is one tough motor. And don't discount a good 4 stroke 25 either. That is what I have and I wouldn't go back to a 2 stroke unless I was paid to. Mine's on a 548 LDV War Eagle. Love that rig. VERY little maintenance is needed and by far my favorite boat I've had, and I've had a bunch. Funny, I was talking to my dad about it the other day and he was saying that he thought I'd never get rid of the 14 footer (1432) that's got the old evinrude 9.9 on it. I kept it-still got it actually (I gave it to dad to use) but I hate the recoil starter, I hate how slow it is, the throttle linkages are worn out, and I drown in smoke when I fire it up the first time. Owned it since it was 2 months old, 1984 model, about 25 hours run time on it total. We never used it much other than idling onto the and off of the trailer and that's about it. Clean the carb twice a year, which is a pain in the butt compared to most of the Yamaha's I've worked on. Last time I had dad's on the lake, I had to put a rope on the starter....hate that design. And that little thing is tough to start via rope starter. For whatever reason, it seems like it's got 500 psi compression. Gauge says 120 on both. Also had an older 25 johnson, hated it too. Single carb/twin cylinder. Rougher running than I'm used to, liked gas, liked to be fixed from time to time. And smoked horribly when it was cold. Once you made a wide open run, it'd clear up and was good to go all the rest of the day, but sometimes I didn't get that opportunity to run wide open (stumps, rocks, etc). Always had to carry some extra spark plugs. I actually traded that thing on the water (well at the ramp)...guy in anotherhboat had a 25 Yamaha twin cylinder twin carb motor that sat for a long time, he commented how clean the Johnson was and I told him I'd trade...jokingly...and he said ok yeah. The Yamaha ran perfect. And being it was a 100:1 fuel/oil mix, lot less smoke.

I saw a 25 triple (3 cylinder) Yamaha with a Panther PT&T on another site for $3,000...surprised it hasn't sold yet. Sometimes you can drive a little and pick up stuff cheap. 25's in this area are gold because of the public hunting areas' 25hp limits. I had 2 of the 4 strokes, kept one, sold the other the same day it went on CL, $2400. Elsewhere in the country, it'd have been a $1000 motor, at best. The other side of that deal is that a lot of the used 25' s are used up. The flooded timber takes it's toll. Skegs busted, bent/broken props, foots that are destroyed, etc. Another advantage of Yamaha, the shift dog pin in the foot is cheezy...little 5mm piece of steel, it will break if you hit something hard enough, and it gets hard to shift into/out of gear. Takes 10 minutes to fix it due to the design of the foot.

the older points ignition motors are headaches, unless you know how to work on 'em and keep 'em running. Most of the Chrysler stuff needs to be in the scrap iron pile. Some guys still collect them, though.
 
Just FYI I bout a 90 model precision blend 30hp 3cyl yamaha in near mint condition (hood was faded) for a grand on CL. Prob best 1k I've ever spent.
 
Kustrud said:
Thanks and that's kinda what I'm gathering from reading as well. So help me here, I want to spend around $500 and will spend up to $1,000 on a good deal/motor. What should I look for and where can I look besides CL?

Well CL is almost always my 1st choice. Then Ebay & if no luck there maybe a "boat broker" or auction. However, I strongly suggest that with Ebay that you choose a somewhat local seller so you can see & hear the motor running 1st hand BEFORE you plunk down your $$ (never buy 'blind'). If possible, make sure they tank test the OB to see if it's pumping water & how it well it performs on a higher RPM (misses, stall outs etc..). A compression test is a must (make sure all [examined] spark plugs are removed before you start testing each cylinder). If the cylinders are within 5-10psi variations of each other, then it's ok (should read no lower than 80psi per cylinder imo, better to be 100psi plus ). Also very important, is to check the Lower Unit gear lube & see what color & texture it is (usually two small big headed bolts on the side of the LU near the prop). If the lube comes out looking like a vanilla milk shake, or water comes out first before the oil...NOT good! Walk away (if any of the 3 previously mentioned undesirable scenarios happen to play out). And for a grand, you MIGHT be able to snag an older 25hp Honda (my 1st choice) or like a previous poster said, a Yamaha. Nissan would be my next choice (I own 2) & are usually are cheaper in price than a Honda or Yamaha but, are still pretty **** good motors. If no luck on the previously mention OB fronts, I'd then go with as new a Johnson or Evinrude as I could afford. A final bit of trivial info; Johnsons usually start better stone cold than Mercs but, once Mercs are warmed up good, they start pretty easily from then on (well, that's the case with my Mariner anyway). The newer Mercs (2000-2014), I am not familiar with.
 
Awesome, and great info guys! I appreciate all of the help.....here are some eBay deals I have found:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-25HP-Outboard-Motor-Remote-Short-Shaft-/171605823243?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item27f4810f0b&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHNSON-EVINRUDE-25-hp-2-STROKE-OUTBOARD-15-BOAT-MOTOR-Short-Shaft-Remote-/351260022189?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item51c8ba95ad&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-25-HP-short-shaft-outboard-motor-/281512736516?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item418b777704&vxp=mtr

Give me soem feedback on these so I know what to look for!

I will most likely go the CL route. What kind of compression tester do I need, how do I use it, and where do I get it?

Thanks!
 
Are you looking for a tiller or remote? The first 2 are remotes. Does your War Eagle have a console, or is it set up for a tiller?
 
You gotta run it.

There is no way to tell how good a motor is without running it. Perfect compression is good unless the bearings are making noises. If the powerhead is tight it will sound tight, nice and quiet. If it's loose and slappy or buzzy or rappy, clicky, whiny, thumpy....

Take someone with you who has experience.

If you stumble into a situation where the motor is obviously hardly used, an estate sale or other long term storage scenario, then it may be wise to take a chance right away. It's an immediate decision. Can go really well or not.

Sellers will often lie...or at least talk around the truth. They will tell you everything there is to know about the motor except what they fear is wrong with it. Ask lots of questions. Beware of answers like: "It ran fine last time I used it." or "I think it needs a tune up.", "The carb needs cleaning", "It might need a water pump".
If you can't hear it AND like it, then the next step is to figure it for parts or repair. The step below that is scrap value minus handling cost.

Other things to check:
(1)Paint and finish. How an engine appears reflects considerably on its value. You can get an excellent idea how it was treated by the surface condition. I see engines all the time owner telling me what low hours it has. I look down and all the paint is worn off the skeg. It takes a lot of hours to do that. Either that or someone ran it through the bottom all the time.
(2)Steering/mounting bracket. Look for looseness and play. Look for evidence of lubrication. Is everything dry and stiff? Do the clamps turn sticky or jam up? Tilt linkage loose or rusted? Shift linkage nice? Stains/leaks?
(3)Lower unit. Take out the lower fluid screw enough to let a few drops seep out on your finger. Any water? Milky colored oil? Metal sparkles?
(4)Look for evidence of overheating like scorched paint toward the back of the cylinders. Look for salt corrosion. Motors from salt environments are terrible to take apart for service.

Spend as much time with the engine as you can BEFORE handing over the cash. That's when you want to find the problems. Don't jump on the first old piece of junk you run across just because you want one quick. Wait for the right engine at the right price. It's out there.
 
Thanks for the reply 2fast. Good info! Check out this motor in the link. I'm gonna call and ask some questions tomorrow. Anyone know what year, good/bad, model, general info. from looking at the pic?

I can't tell if it's a long or short, I need a short though.

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/boa/4814994196.html
 
Give me soem feedback on these so I know what to look for!
I will most likely go the CL route. What kind of compression tester do I need, how do I use it, and where do I get it?
Thanks!


Boat2Fast gave you some good sound advise (same as mine only he elaborated more & gave you other things to watch out for).
In regards to..https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/boa/4814994196.html; that motor looks like a long shaft & looks decent enough but again, follow Boat2Fast's sage advise & chances are you'll be ok.
Harbor Freight has a compression tester kit with 3 hoses with 3 different size ends.
The kit should contain instructions on how to use the tester, just make sure ALL the spark plugs are out before you start testing. If you have no Harbor Freight near you, try a Sears or your local auto parts place or simply borrow one.
In regards to the motors/links you provided to various Ebay auctions, imo I think they're all a little over-priced.
I'd try CL thoroughly first before I decided on going the Ebay route. But keep in mind, you're hunting for an OB at really the wrong time of the year (winter). Kinda like looking for snowmobiles during the summer time. Spring is the best time to start hunting for deals on boats & OB motors imo (well here in the Midwest it is, I don't know about down south).
Good luck!
 

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