Couple Motor Questions & does this gear oil look normal?

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lugoismad

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A few weeks ago I changed my impeller and found out the previous owner did not install the o-ring around the drive shaft that prevents water from getting into the gear case.

Fixed that and then drained the gear oil and it was milk white.

Today I ran the motor in a rubbermaid container in gear at idle for about 10 minutes, with a few accelerations up to mid-to-high throttle, then drained the gear oil again.

Ignore the nasty oil thats already in the pain.
Does whats coming out of there look right?
BCFlxri.jpg


I'm letting it drip out for a few hours, and then I'll re-fill it again.

Bonus youtube video of it running at idle. Does everything sound right to you?

[youtube]aKiGb_Zbe5Q[/youtube]


Also, when I would take it up from idle to mid-throttle or so, it would run fine, but then when I'd bring it back to idle it would want to die. I know 2-strokes can be temperamental. It would always fire right back up. Is this normal behavior for a 30 year old motor?
 
DaleH said:
Oil looks OK for 1st change since the other issue. Stalling at idle after higher RPMs means your carb need adjustment.

Can you point me to something that shows me how to adjust the carb? I know nothing about them. I can take them apart and clean them, but I do not know how to adjust.
 
Lugo - think about it for a moment . . . .

Your lower unit gear box is a sealed unit. If the oil is not the same color (or close to it)
as when you put it in, something is not right and you must find out what it is.
Or, risk some problems down the line.

gasoline will not make oil run milky or light color.
only WATER will turn oil to a lighter shade of poo.

take your time, do your homework,
not knowing your motor, it is hard to guess at what may cause the issue.
it make take more than an O-Ring to seal the shaft.
It make take a metal seal with a spring around the rubber shaft part.
 
Barefoot_Johnny said:
Lugo - think about it for a moment . . . .

Your lower unit gear box is a sealed unit. If the oil is not the same color (or close to it)
as when you put it in, something is not right and you must find out what it is.
Or, risk some problems down the line.

gasoline will not make oil run milky or light color.
only WATER will turn oil to a lighter shade of poo.

take your time, do your homework,
not knowing your motor, it is hard to guess at what may cause the issue.
it make take more than an O-Ring to seal the shaft.
It make take a metal seal with a spring around the rubber shaft part.

Johnny -

I should have explained more. The o-ring went under a metal plate that went under the impeller and around the drive shaft.. There was a spot for it and it was not there previously, but a new one came with the kit. I'm assuming the previous owner either misplaced it or was just an idiot. The old gear oil came out white.

Which is why I wanted to be super sure of the new stuff. I changed it once already, ran it for about 10 minutes, and then drained it immediately.

I've never dealt with gear oil before, I've never had to change a rear end in a truck or anything. Which is why I asked here, I wanted to be super sure what came out looked right.
It looked right to me, but I'd hate to grenade a $1000 motor because I didn't know.
 
The water pump seal is where most of the problems occur.
Some leaks make take months of normal use to show up . .... not 10 minutes.
That is why I asked about the color of the oil you put into the foot.
It "should be" the exact same color after 10-30 minutes of running in a tub.

here are my concerns . . . .

there is no outside pressure (to speak of) to force water INTO the lower foot outside of the water pump.
a properly installed impeller O-Ring and seat should last for years under normal use.
now, here's the rub - - - there IS a seal behind the propeller going to the gear box.
myself, I have never attempted to dive into this one !!!!!
I just never had the reason to.

Look at your shop manual at how your lower foot is assembled and where the seal is.
If you think you can remove the holding ring "cage" without damaging it, it may be a good idea
to remove it so you can inspect the seal. If you think you can replace this seal yourself, just get all your
parts on hand beforehand and have at it.
Check YouTube before you do anything. About the Propeller Shaft Seal change.
i HOPE it is a small and easy issue for you to fix !!
Johnny
 

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  • 50hp Force Foot.jpg
    50hp Force Foot.jpg
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I think maybe I didn't explain well enough.

I put a new impeller in. The previous owner did not install one of the o-rings in the impeller kit the last time it was done. So water was able to get into the gear box. I fixed this.

What I was more concerned about was because water sat for so long in the gear case. I changed the oil, ran it, then what you see in the pic is the new oil being drained again. I want to make sure I got all of the water out of there.

I think maybe I'm just being anal.
 
It's hard to tell from the pic.
When You get it back on the boat, Give it a good day of running,
Then check. If it comes out clean, then give it a week of running,
then check again. If it's clean I'd say Ya got it fixed.
By the way, what kinda motor?
Good luck.

Steve A W

 
Steve A W said:
It's hard to tell from the pic.
When You get it back on the boat, Give it a good day of running,
Then check. If it comes out clean, then give it a week of running,
then check again. If it's clean I'd say Ya got it fixed.
By the way, what kinda motor?
Good luck.

Steve A W


25hp 1984 OMC
 
being over cautious is a GOOD thing.
don't get rattled (just yet).
but after a couple more oil changes and you still have milky oil,
water is getting into the foot from somewhere.
That is where I suggested the propeller shaft seal may be the culprit.
Rare, but it does happen.

I have a 1952 Ford tractor that holds 5 gallons of hydraulic/transmission oil.
After I first got it, the oil was milky, I changed it.
a few months later, it was milky again. I freaked out. Thinking it is a head gasket or something.
took it to the tractor repair guy and he says that is "normal" because there is a big air space in the
case that allows air to accumulate moisture, which in turn, turns to water - in the oil.
It really doesn't hurt anything. All the moving parts are being lubricated as they should.

In a boat motor, a little water in the foot oil really doesn't hurt anything -IF- the motor
is run often. The damage is from water in the foot and the motor is put up for a couple of
years.
So don't freak out just yet over your oil that looks odd.
Just like Steve said - give it some time. and go from there.
Happy Boating !!
 

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