1966 evinrude 18hp won't start

Hello everyone. I have a 1966 evinrude 18hp fastwin that had been sitting for 5 years. I tried to start it the other day and it wouldn't fire at all. I thought the coils or the plugs. I am currently trying to get the flywheel off to check the coils. It will not budge. when the flywheel turns i hear a soft sizzle sound. Is that the kind of sound bad coils would make? And if so any advice on getting that flywheel off? I got the nut off and put a 3 prong puller on it and stripped the bolts. I am about to load it with explosives and blow it off, haha. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.

Are you trying to pull the flywheel by lifting up on the edges of it with puller arms? If so, you either will or have warped the flywheel.
Or are the threaded holes that puller bolts go into near the center hub stripped?
The sound you hear is probably that of the magnets dragging on the coil laminates as the flywheel rotates.
If the center holes are stripped your option is to drill and tap, or drill, tap, and install a threaded insert. The first one would be my choice then use larger bolts.
When you have this done put tension on the flywheel and smack the center bolt pushing against the crank with a hammer. The shock usually frees the flywheel.
If not....leave the tension there overnight. Sometimes the flywheel will come loose. Can also apply a bit of heat around the hub with a propane torch to help then smack it with a hammer.

Thank you. I got the flywheel off with the screw on puller and a sledge. I plan on replacing all i can and praying she fires up after. Your post helped a lot.

A new set of points and condensers would be in order now that you have the flywheel off. They are located under a cover around the crank. They can be the cause of your no start issue.

You will need a locating ring for the coils. It is an OMC tool that fits around the coil locating bosses. Once in place the coils are pushed out in contact with the ring. The coil screws are then tightened. The coils are now placed in exactly the right place in relation to the flywheel.

Doing the coils without the tool is possible but if the coils are out too far they will contact the flywheel. If they are pushed in too far you will lose low rpm spark.

Before any of that take the whole ignition plate off and clean out the old hardened grease. Re-lube with OMC type 'A' or equivalent. I used Triple-Guard a few times but it is too thick to allow smooth throttle action. Good time to do the tower shaft and all the tiller parts too...clean em, inspect everything, and lube em.

Check around the crankshaft seal to note any oily discharge. A leaky seal will cause the cylinder to run lean at idle and it will backfire and spit. When it does, it spits out a mist of fuel and you will see it around the crank. Don't even bother to run the engine with a bad crank seal. The top cylinder wont idle. If the crank seals are both leaking badly, top and bottom, the engine may not even start even though everything else checks out.

Set the points with the timing tool and an ohmeter, or test light, or buzzer. If both cylinders are timed exactly 180 degrees apart, the engine will run as smooth as it can. Setting both point sets at .020 only gets you reasonably close.

Clean the points of all traces of oil, not even finger prints...

Most mechanics never go to these lengths, except on their own engines. Customers usually don't want to pay the hours.