1954 Evinrude Super Fastwin 15

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jake11

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2014
Messages
122
Reaction score
0
Location
Highlandtown, OH.
Good evening all! So.... I recently picked up an older sea nymph 14K on a decent trailer for a steal. Shortly after I went on the hunt for a motor to slap on this majestic vessel. I came across an add on my local CL for a 1954 evinrude 15 that looks amazing for its age and after having amazing luck with my last old evinrude (64 9.5) I decided I must have it. Did some bartering and got it for some stuff I had laying around and no longer needed. The guy had the original compression tank and fuel line with it to my surprise. I get it home, check it over. It has great spark and the compression is dead even on both cylinders. Turns out the guy replaced the points condensers wires and plugs before he put it away three years ago. So I cleaned up the plugs a bit put some mix gas in the tank, prime the tank and, again to my surprise it holds pressure. Pulled it three times and it fired. Got it to run with some coaxing but it wouldn't idle very well. Popped the drain screw on the lower unit and to my dread it has some water in the lube.... So at this point I think I need a carb kit and lower unit seals. The carb I've done a few of by the lower unit gear case is something I've never had the guts to tear into. I need a manual for it but I don't want one of the generic manuals that cover 30 different motors. Any suggestions? Any advice on this lower unit tear down, tips, tricks or special tools? Oh and last but not least what's your opinion of these motors? Worth some time and money to get it back to where it should be? Thanks in advance.
 
I think it will run forever.

How's the stream? If it seems strong, why not run it a bit while looking for someone who can replace the impeller WHILE you watch. It is not rocket science, but there's a few bits that would nice to see someone else do the first time.

You have done very well.
 
:WELCOME: aboard!
I hope you find this site as interesting and helpful as I. Every one on here is friendly and eager to share their knowledge.

Those motors are a twin to the Johnson. Most parts are interchangeable. Carb kit is easy and not very expensive ($25). The impeller is not that hard. Take the nose cone off, the nut, the prop, and go from there. No special tools needed for that one.

There is a fantastic old site on all kinds of old motors. Here is the link:
https://www.leroysramblings.com

The old gent as passed away, but his family keeps the site up and going. His way of explaining in layman's terms are not only knowledgeable but extremely funny. :D

Hope this helps. Good luck with your motor!
M
Tyler, Texas
 
Thanks for the responses. It is pumping water pretty well. I will be changing the impeller anyway but that's no a big deal I've done several of them. Its the tearing into the actual gear case to change seals that scares me.... Not sure how complex it is in there... Idk maybe I'm over thinking it. Just don't want to get it apart and not be able to figure out how to put it back together. Also, does anyone know if the cover from a 10 horse of a similar year will mount on here? Thanks.
 
Those engines are built like tanks.
Very little difference in performance between that engine and the later 18hp engines. I think that engine weighs only 68# !
As far as care goes, first and foremost is the oil ratio. Never, never run less than a 24:1 mixture in it. Do not listen to Bubba and Billy Bob tell you any differently.
It should run like a watch at idle. An OEM carb kit is what I would recommend as it is the only complete kit on the market. It likes Champion spark plugs.
As far as water in the gearcase goes the main culprit is the shift rod seal. Until you get this taken care of change the LU oil religiously to keep the water at bay. Use a manufacturers gearcase oil such as BRP (Johnson/Evinrude) which will mix with as much as a 25% by volume solution of water and maintain 100% protection.
Obviously change the impeller or complete water pump out as necessary. The rule of thumb here is that if you can hook a fingernail in the grooves in the pump housing or lower wear plate then replace the complete pump assy.
If you can, run the engine on non-ethanol fuel. Nothing more than 87 to 89 octane is needed.
If you follow the oil recommendations and service the engine you will find excellent performance, decent economy, and you will be able to hand it down to your grandchildren when you are done with it. I have had several of these engines in the past and have enjoyed the heck out of them.
 
Thanks for the information. I'm glad you mentioned the mix. I put the heavy mix in it but had been reading a lot since that with modern oils its OK to go 40 or 50 to 1. I doubt I would have went that light on the mix but I was considering lightening it up a bit. Thanks for the save.

Since I don't have a parts dealer in reasonable driving distance of me I guess I'll just order the entire water pump assembly and omc carb kit along with prop shaft seal, drive shaft seal, shift linkage seal and a bunch of Johnson LU oil.

I'll post some pictures tonight and some more this weekend as I start the work. Should liven the post up a bit. Thanks again for all the info.
 
I remembered how to post pictures so here are a few of her the way I got her. Hopefully after I get it running well I will try to clean it up and maybe touch up the paint this winter.

 
Saweet! :mrgreen:

Told you there would be some guys pop up on here that would have the knowledge. Kis is telling you right, Pappy knows!

Thanks for sharing the pics. Sweet little motor.

:USA1: Thank you for your service, Sir!

M
Tyler, Texas
 
Do yourself a favor and go to this site.
www.aomci.org
Introduce yourself there and have a look around. Be very careful who you take advice from in the "ask a member" section. Lots of information there if you just sift through it.
Am thinking you may enjoy becoming a member there and making some meets.
There are tons in there who would love to have that engine you just found. Take good care of it and don't leave it out in the sun to fade away.
Also, thank you for your service!
 
Thanks for the link! I'll definitely check it out.
I'm picking up the stuff to build a stand for it today and will be making a spot for her in the garage. Just ou of curiosity... Any idea what a "good" compression would be on one of these?
 
Wow, that motor looks great!

Not too long ago I picked up a pile of crap that turned out to be a '53 Evin 15. The lower gears were seized on it so I had to take it all apart and get them moving. Luckily the lower is very simple to work on.
BTW the motor now looks purdy and runs great.
 
Oh BTW since you had your lower off.... I read that the smaller 5.5 and 7.5 of this era have to have the power head pulled off to free up the shift linkage. Is it the same with these or do they have a connector mid shaft like the later models? Thanks
 
I ended up having the power head off and apart.....

but to answer your question there is a connection mid-shaft.

Really easy, fun motors to work on.
 

Latest posts

Top