Suzuki PU40 problem starting

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PA Delaware Fisher

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I have a Suzuki PU40 that doesn't want to start without a quick spray of 2x2. Once its ran it will start first pull for the rest of the day. But the initial start up is a pain. I thought maybe it wasn't getting a good prime but i cant hear gas being pumped into it. I don't know what it could be! Anyone have a idea? I didn't have this problem until this year.
 
PA Delaware Fisher said:
I have a Suzuki PU40 that doesn't want to start without a quick spray of 2x2. Once its ran it will start first pull for the rest of the day. But the initial start up is a pain. I thought maybe it wasn't getting a good prime but i cant hear gas being pumped into it. I don't know what it could be! Anyone have a idea? I didn't have this problem until this year.

I assume you mean "you can hear gas being pumped" but pull the hose off primer and turn it over and check. Also check for good spark.

After that I would pull carb(s) and clean them.

Don't know what 2x2 is? but if starting fluid, use sparingly if at all on a 2-cycle.

Tim
 
2x2 is starting fluid for a 2 stroke. It has a lubricant in it. If it was the carb wouldn't it not idle or start back up or any of that? once its ran it will start first pull and runs fine. But I don't know why i didn't think to check the plugs... I'm sure the 2x2 ignites at a lower temp than gas/oil
 
PA Delaware Fisher said:
2x2 is starting fluid for a 2 stroke. It has a lubricant in it. If it was the carb wouldn't it not idle or start back up or any of that? once its ran it will start first pull and runs fine. But I don't know why i didn't think to check the plugs... I'm sure the 2x2 ignites at a lower temp than gas/oil

You are correct. Darn new motors. My new lawn mower has no primer choke or anything yet it starts somehow.
Look at the front of your carb and see if the engine throttle works the choke as you turn it to start. It might just need to be adjusted closed a hair more. Might have worked loose.
If the carb even has a choke valve :roll:
 
Try using your hand over the mouth of the carb as additional choke and see if that helps. If it does then you found your problem
 
I'm assuming it's a 30hp jet (IIRC, the PU40 was a jet, rated at 30hp).

I haven't seen one in probably 20 years. Best I remember, they were prime start. Meaning no choke plate in the carburetor, but it had a "solenoid" type deal that opened up an air and fuel passage, which enriches the engine when cold, automatically, and then the plunger drops down to cover the air/fuel passage as the motor warms up. IF that is the case, then it's entirely possible that the passage in the carb is clogged which controls the prime starter. And that would 100% explain why it won't start when cold, and in some cases (I'm familiar with Yamaha's prime starter setup) makes them even harder to start when cold because the air passage is open but not the fuel passage...which makes an already lean engine even leaner (no enrichment). The Yam F25's were known for this. Thousands of carbs and/or bowls were replaced, IMO unnecessarily, because the passage is down in the bowl and is "not accessible" to clean it (it is, but you have to drill out a plug and then tap the hole for a 4mm screw).
 
I am not familiar with the suzuki at all. All I can offer is Yamaha experience, and I can't imagine it being much different.


Anyway, the prime starter unit has a plunger on the end of it. It retracts into it's housing when cold, and extends when hot. When it's retracted, it opens up a fuel and air passage. When it extends, it closes off the passages as the wax inside of the prime starter warms up. It doesn't click in and out, it is slow and usually works off of alternator voltage. Higher voltage from a faster spinning flywheel=faster closing prime starter. Anyway, that passage leads into the carb bowl, through the gasket usually, and down inside the bowl usually lives a jet-or at least an orifice. Something to control the volume of fuel passing through it, and that could be where the problem lies. Pull the carb apart and take a good look at how everything works and I bet you'll find the problem. I've run into some Yamaha's that had 4 carbs and 2 prime starters, and some 3 cylinder engines with 3 carbs and only one prime starter, and twin cylinder motors with a single carb and one prime starter unit. They're all different it seems like. The F50 carb'd motor, for example (as well as the very early 4 cylinder F40) both have 4 carbs and only 2 prime starters. The primer passage had a nipple on it which leads to the other 2 carbs that do not have the primers. Also, some of those I've had experience with also have 4 different main jet sizes, 4 different pilot jet sizes, etc. I had one at one point (and absolutely loved it) and it took me a couple years of fiddling with it to find out that the jetting was staggered and that the prime start bowls (and gaskets) were DIFFERENT than the non prime start bowls. Pretty complicated setup but worth mentioning in a case like this. Some of the 2 stroke 40's also had prime start, 3 cylinders, one prime starter. Bowls look identical and they'll fit on either carb body. But there is a difference internally and when pulling one of those apart, the bowls need to be marked, etched, stamped, whatever. Then there was yet another 40 that had a remote prime starter...which bolted to the side of the center carb, and had teeny tiny passages inside of both the bowl, the carb body, and the primer assembly....if one of them was severely plugged, the entire carb had to be replaced (which ain't cheap).

Best bet is to pull the carbs apart, find the one that has a prime starter (it usually looks like a solenoid sticking out of the carb, with a wire or two on it), pull it apart and then have a look-see how it works. Bet you'll find your problem once you figure how how everything functions.

I sure wish that they all had choke plates like the days of old, but thanks to the good ol' US EPA, that ain't gonna happen anytime soon.
 

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