A few improvements to my new motor, update 1

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Bowhunter1661

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These are a few things I have done to improve the overall usability and reliability of my 88 Johnson 25hp.
First is an angled tach mounting bracket a guy at work made for me on a 3D printer. He custom designed the bracket for me. Before, I had the gauge mounted to the front of the cowl but I could not see the gauge while driving. The new bracket made it so the gauge is angle toward me. A lot safer peeking at it now at WOT.

Second is the throttle linkage stop/adjuster. The oem park is made of brass with a steel flat head screw. After a few adjustments the thin brass piece broke. I bought some 1/4" bar, drilled and tapped for a 10 32 screw, then drilled the hole for the adjusting rod to slide in. It is a much more solid piece and I can tighten the screw quite snug without worrying about snapping it!
 
Another upgrade to my motor, I installed a home made asjustable jack plate the other day. When I took the boat to test it had wicked torque steer to the right due to the height of the motor. My 88 Johnson did not have any way to adjust for torque steer so I came up with my own solution with things around the garage. I made two 1 1/2" angle aluminum pieces, angled them for hydrodynamics, then drilled to accept a 1/4-20 screw. Thankfully the previous owner had drilled holes already for a hydrofoil. Here's the outcome, I just hope it helps. My arms can't take anymore torque steer!!
 
Well I got out this evening after work to test my home grown torque tabs. Let me tell you, they work fantastic! Zero torque steer. Also adjusted the jack plate up another 1/2", the anti vent plate now rode perfectly on top of the water yet my torque tabs still cut through. In this pic you can actually see two white streaks of water coming from under the anti vent plate from the tabs. Very happy man, it runs 32 MPH at 5400 RPM.
 
awesome! :mrgreen: what kind of speed were you getting before the installation of the jack plate?
 
That's some nifty stuff right there! =D>

Oh, get your prop reconditioned. You've got some dings that will produce vibrations . . .


CMOS
 
I was planning a tilt-trim for my 60hp, did you get anywhere with yours yet? I just can't find a cost-effective source for the hydraulics that makes it worthwhile to build myself vs. the CMC units. Though on the flip side, if I'm retrofitting an OEM hydraulic unit theoretically I should be able to find parts for it (Big plus in favor of building it myself even if the cost is comparable) which seems to be the issue with the CMC units - when they need service you're left either to try & figure out what was used on them yourself or replace the whole thing.
 
A lot of effort went into the building your steering torque equalizer.
There are ready-built tabs out there that will do the same thing and drop the parasitic drag by a bunch.
https://www.basspro.com/Torque-Tab-Steering-Stabilizer-for-Outboard-and-SternDrive-Motors/product/22972/
This is just one example. Adapt this or something similar to your skeg and free up some horsepower.
If you do your job right (and it looks like you do) you can bond it and feather it in to where it looks factory.
 
Onthewater102, I think for now I have decided to just leave good good enough. The boat just runs so well with the current setup. That being the jack plate I made. 31-32 mph isn't too shabby. Also, I ran the boat the other day with my brother in law. The motor was set in the third hole. He could barely stay in his seat from the bow hitting waves rather than cutting through them.:mrgreen:

I went to Lake Michigan yesterday to fish for smallies. Put the motor in the second hole. At that setting the bow cut through the waves rather than bouncing off of them. Much for comfortable ride. I have my hole shot, I have my top end, just don't see the need any longer for PTT.

I did end up removing the piece of 2x10 I had installed on the jack plate. The wood made eire noises when accelerating and hitting waves lol. Didn't want to risk loosing my new motor! So I picked up some 1/4"x10" plate and bolted it up, then used some 1 3/4" aluminum tube for the transom screws to tighten to, and finally bolted it through the two factory holes. She's as sturdy as can be! Also, I had them cut me 2 3"x10" plate aluminum pieces and I bolts those to the opposite side of the transom on the inside.

 
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