right prop

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frydaddy

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bought a 2014 merc 30hp tiller with no prop. I have read the owners manuel and it is talking about using a tach to get right pitch and size so motor isn't over reving. is it really that difficult. I mean seems like you would have to buy a couple and try each one or take it to a boat shop.

surely it is easier than that. I have a 1854 flatbottom monark any suggestions?
thanks
 
FWIW I have pitched many small boats & OBs so far (9.9 Nissan, 18hp Nissan, 25 OMC, and 40hp Yamaha) using Turning Points props and their prop calculator here and the results have been phenomenal! I then buy the props from https://www.lowcostboatingstore.com .

Link = https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37433&hilit=Prop+calculator

I also used it to pitch my new-to-me Merc 40hp, but I haven't run the boat yet ...

Edit - TIP, if your hull isn't listed in their database, use an equivalent length/beam model that is listed that is similar to your ...
 
To do it properly, yes it is that "complicated". But it's not rocket science.

Everything else is a guess. They may be an educated guess, but the correct way to do it is with a working, calibrated tachometer.

But to argue my own point, prop selection is not a science so much as it is a guess. The tach just give you more education so that you can choose more effectively.

More pitch=less RPM. Less pitch=more RPM. Simple.

If your motor is specified as having a maximum RPM of, say, 5500 for example, and you have a 15" pitch on it....with no tach, how do you know what RPM you're currently turning? It could be 3800. It could be 6500.

Under propping is just as bad...if not worse...than over propping.

You want your maximum RPM to be right on what your motor specifies. If it's specified 5500 RPM, you'll want to prop it to 5500 or real close. The motor will thank you with a long life. Overloading the engine with a prop that has too much pitch overheats the engine, carbons up the pistons and cylinders and heads, sticks the rings, and generally hurts it in the long run. Too little pitch tends to stretch rods, overheat in some cases, stresses the engine and the drive system, etc.

Good story. When I worked at a dealer, a customer came in and bought a really nice 860 War Eagle duck boat, rigged with a Yamaha F90 4 stroke. 25hp and up do not come from the factory with a prop, so it's up to either the dealer or the customer to select a prop. He wanted a 15" Turbo 1. 15" is not nearly enough pitch. I told him that when he picked it up and advised him that if something were to happen to the motor due to incorrect prop, that Yamaha could decide not to honor the warranty (not likely, but they could based on the warranty statement). He said he'd been doing all the research and said that 15" was what everyone suggested. There was no tachometer in the boat, he did no purchase one-said he didn't need it since he'd been running boats all his life (but never had a 4 stroke....)

Couple weeks later guy shows up saying his motor is like running rough when he's got the throttle pinned, and sometimes it wants to cut the speed back to about 1/2 of what it's supposed to do. He says his max speed is right around 28 mph, which he accepted. I knew already what the problem was, so I took off with him to the river and we ran the boat. I also took my portable inductive tachometer. I was driving, he was holding the tach. I pinned the throttle and we were on plane almost instantly. Impressive planing time. By 25 mph, we were at 6400 RPM. max is 6000. At 28, we were on the 6600RPM limiter. Tach was bouncing between 6600 and 6400, and I could hear the motor missing. He says that's exactly what he was talking about, something was wrong with it. Turning point (at the time) suggested 15", but the F90 was a new motor...which hadn't been on the market long. I called the shop and asked them if they had a 19" in any sort. Parts guy had one in stock, Solas 4 blade aluminum...which I didn't really want to use, but we loaded up, drove back to the shop, and I told him we'd switch the prop and head back to the river. 20 min later we're back in the water with the Solas. Pinned the throttle, it was a little slower to get on plane but once it was up, it stayed up at a much lower RPM (right around 3500 vs 4200). Then we ran down river at full throttle, him holding the tach. We were right at 6100 full throttle, which is acceptable to go over a hundred with a light load. But the big news is that his speed picked up from 28-ish to around 37 or 8. 10mph improvement. And the motor was MUCH quieter, smoother, he absolutely loved the way it ran. And to this day still does, though, he switched from the 4 blade 19 to a 20" 3 blade stainless Turbo which is a shade faster.

The tach, if it reads correct, does not lie. If you find your hull and your motor on a setup bulletin, how do you know yours is loaded the same? How do you know that your motor is at the same height? Same fuel? Same elevation, air pressure, humidity, temperature, etc? All these things play into it, some more than others. Elevation is a big part. Higher elevation=less oxygen=less power=you would need less pitch.
 
My story..Bought a tiny tach in 2006 cause the f2.5 yami's prop was wrong. Had that tiny tach for 5 years and was the key to the right blade, even for my 18ft canoe. Then the battery died. no more tach.

Forward to fall of 2014. got a Johnson 15hp 1976 apart in a box for 100 bucks. Put it together and use it on a 1232 jon. Bought 4blade 10p solas for it. Motor seemed to rev slower than 6500 rpm. Bought a tiny tach, a $10 with shipping from china. Motor was at 5600 or so with 10p. Bought a 8p and it ran 6600 nothing in the boat except me and gallon of gas. Shortly after using 8p the blade showed erosion on back side just in from the trailing edge. Then the tiny tach got "stuck" at 3550. Bad tach, 3 weeks of use. So back went the 10p and was looking at a 9p blade. I looked at the 10p alittle closer to see if the prop was cupped. I couldn't see if the cup was paint drip or cup. I removed the cup and worked on the leading edge and got to 6000.

So yea, finding the exact perfect prop usually takes time and some effort. And sometimes elbow grease.
 

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