Force 40hp...another problem, won't start!

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euroshowoff

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So on top of the first cylinder not wanting to fire a few weeks ago, now she refuses to start. I'll post a link below, but the first video is with a brand new batter that I just purchased. (had not been charged previously to installing). The second video is when I am attempt to jump it with my truck. Any ideas on where I should start? I should also note that the trim up is not working, relay clicks but does not want to trim up. Trim down works without a problem.


Installed a new battery: https://goo.gl/photos/pzb47iK8KoLq3CWg7

Jumping it with my truck: https://goo.gl/photos/5g5vWKUkeJoWBw366

cuMdb3ehUHGBWM186
 
DaleH said:
I'd get a spark tester, Force CDIs were notorious for intermittent operation, as in one say she'd start up and the next day it wouldn't ...

Motor lost all power while out on the water one day, so thats when I tested the plugs, old school method to basically touch the plug to a good ground while cranking the motor, thats how i found out the top cyclinder had no spark. that was a few weeks ago. after testing, the motor will not crank even with a new battery. can the plugs be the cause that the motor will not crank?
 
SumDumGuy said:
DaleH said:
I'd get a spark tester, ...

^^^

Thanks but wouldn't the motor need to crank before the plugs become an issue? How can I test for spark when the motor won't turn over?

The gear on top of the starter only pulsates and does not turn the flywheel.
 
euroshowoff said:
The gear on top of the starter only pulsates and does not turn the flywheel.
Your starter could have worn brushes, is being engergized, but is not making enough contact to use all the amps.

Try this ... have someone rap (hardwood block or plastic mallet) on the starter housing while you start it. The rapping helps the brushes make contact. That's a sure sign it needs a rebuild.

Remember not to crank, crank on starters - take it easy on them and allow time to rest & recover (cool off).
 
DaleH said:
euroshowoff said:
The gear on top of the starter only pulsates and does not turn the flywheel.
Your starter could have worn brushes, is being engergized, but is not making enough contact to use all the amps.

Try this ... have someone rap (hardwood block or plastic mallet) on the starter housing while you start it. The rapping helps the brushes make contact. That's a sure sign it needs a rebuild.

Remember not to crank, crank on starters - take it easy on them and allow time to rest & recover (cool off).

Thanks. is there a way to bypass the starter cables to rule those out?
 
Do a resistance check! I had a boat where I ended up replacing the battery cables and battery switch, but it would crank (V6) ... just not provide enough volts to light off the computer ECM.
 
SumDumGuy said:
Can you easily pull the starter motor? If so hook it to a battery external and see if it spins.

I haven't had a chance to, but I was gonna try jumper cables and connect the starter motor to the battery on my truck to see if it spins.
 
DaleH said:
I'd get a spark tester, Force CDIs were notorious for intermittent operation, as in one say she'd start up and the next day it wouldn't ...

Hmmm, I had a 1997, 40hp Force for several years and never had this problem. Guess maybe I had a good one?
 
Have it hooked up to a new charged battery. Cleaned the connections on the starter cables on the battery side but it just won't crank. I did notice that the gear that turns the flywheel is stuck in the upright position, is that normal?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445185248.625182.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445185262.147203.jpg
 
on my 35hp and 50hp Force - - - NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
no bueno - the bendix is stuck. If it does start in that position, it will toast your starter.
drop some oil on the shaft, turn it by hand, loosen it up. Tap it with something to get it down.
Then, after you get it all loosened up and working properly,
REMEMBER that moving things need a regular maintenance.
it should only be in the up position when engaging to start.
then, it goes back down to below the flywheel position.
starter 001.JPG
It should look like this 50hp starter - you should be able to
pick up the bendix freely up and down.

oh, and if after you get the bendix all loosened up and it still sticks in the up position,
you may have a bad bendix, or the starter is loose and misaligned with the flywheel.


and my Dos Centavos on replacing the battery cables - my vote is YES. (for both).
to err on the side of caution. They may look good on the outside,
but can be pretty bad on the inside. After you get the new cables,
cut the old ones open . . . . then report back with your findings.




.
 
Thanks it managed to go back down, and I applied some marine grease to the shaft now. It does turn freely and go up and down only when engaged

I did notice that the negative side of the battery is getting really hot when cranking and starts to smoke, is that because I'm not allowing it to rest when I crank? I'm only cranking for a few seconds.
 
Edit: the battery is smoking or the starter ???


I have had only one starter smoke like that. then, one day, it caught fire......
well, not actually fire, but a smoking stinking mess that burned all the internals.
Smell of the starter when it is hot - if it stinks like burnt really bad,
I would start looking for a new starter when you have the extra funds.

Don't know what to tell you if it is the battery that is hot and smoking..... never experienced that one.
Many of us have run trolling motors on the cranking battery without any issues.
And I am sure they draw as much if not more amps than a starter (?)......
If you can, check the fluid levels in the battery. If it is a sealed battery, you may
have some serious stuff going on inside of it.

jus my Dos Centavos
 
I recall that only light viscosity oils should be used to lubricate bendix starter shafts, not the gear or teeth. I always used a fine oil like that made for Singer sewing machines.
 
So I tried bypassing the solenoid to test the starter. Assuming I did this correctly. I wired a positive lead off the battery and tapped the red/yellow connection on the solenoid to attempt a start. I'm still experiencing the same behavior for a very weak crank. Did I do this test correctly. Did this bypass the solenoid and send power directly to the starter?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445195324.832940.jpg
 
If going through the solenoid does not work,
use a heavy wire or jumper cable and go from the battery positive terminal
directly to the starter positive bolt. Don't touch anything else.
It should jump up and try to start the motor. With the motor out of gear, of course.
Then, you an focus on (1) your boat battery cables and (2) the solenoid.
I am the furthest out of any kind electrical know-how, but, this is what
I have done in the past to narrow down the gremlins.
The most aggravating things in boat issues are the fuel delivery and electrical !!!!!

good luck
 
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