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Jim

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Hi,
Reaching out to all of you for help. I am looking for tips in what to look for when buying a used outboard. I am thinking high level, 4-5 "tips", and things to avoid.

I want this article geared to the first time buyer, but could also bring some value to anyone and everyone.

So what are some tips you would tell someone to look for if they are about to purchase their first used outboard?

Thanks,
Jim
 
If the seller says "it has good compression" - - - ask him how and when he last tested the motor
Reason: I talked with a guy on the phone the other day selling a 1961 40hp Johnson
he said "it has great compression".
Talked a little more about the motor, all seems good.... then I asked him the compression numbers.
He said, I dunno - but it will blow your finger right off the spark plug hole !!!
LOL so, ask for the numbers from an actual compression gauge . . . . and when was it tested.
I am NOT a mechanic - I learn as I go - most often, it is the hard and expensive way.

#1 - Some states require motors to be registered - know the laws in your state for registration issues.
oh - avoid the guy that tests compression with his finger
carry your own compression gauge. (be familiar with what is good and bad compression numbers).






.
 
Having bought literally dozens of motors, only 1 of which was NEW, I can write or help write something up.

To me, any prospective used OB owner should own at least a $40 compression gauge, $20 laser/infrared thermometer, and a $10 set of muffs and/or tall 33-gal or similar tall barrel. Motor stand is an option. FWIW I made one out of PT wood using exterior screws and it holds smallies to a 200# OB easily. Maybe I should post those build plans!

One thing I do now on any OB is to check the thermostat/poppit BEFORE starting, if the Seller lets you that is. It at least gives you a glimpse into the condition of the inside passages of the motor and perhaps some idea of how she was cared for - or not.

Start the OB, if it will, and check head temps as you run at fast idle. More later ...
 
Will throw in one tip for you and let others fill in the rest.
Am assuming we are speaking of a 2-stroke purchase?
Lets also assume since you are talking about a first time purchaser and that he has little knowledge and no test equipment.
I have had this question asked of me so many times that, if I had a dollar for every time.....and you know the rest of that sentence.

TIP #1 - The best test of a potential buy in a 2-stroke engine is that it will achieve a slow steady idle, in gear, on the boat and in the water.


Knowing what it takes to achieve this (good compression, good air fuel ratio, good ignition system) will put the purchaser far ahead in his confidence level on the purchase.
From that starting point acceleration can be checked, shifting, unusual noises, visual condition, and whatever else you feel is important..........etc.
 
My tips

- Understand where the motor has been used. Don't necessarily walk away from a salt-water motor, but be diligent in checking ALL moving parts. Tilt pivot, steering, throttle, reverse locking mechanism etc. If any of these are frozen or severely restricted, you can be sure that any future repairs are going to require a lot of extra work (sheared bolts, heli-coils, corroded parts).

- Pop the cover off and look at the cylinder head. If there is any browning/discoloration of the paint, be VERY cautious. If it got hot enough to burn the paint, there is most likely at least scoring in the cylinder(s). Anyone who has gone through the efforts of repairing/rebuilding bores would take the time to repaint it when it's stripped.

- Ask when the last time the water pump was changed (change it after purchase NO MATTER WHAT the answer is). This will help give you an indication of how well the owner kept up with maintenance.

- Ask the owner what the compression is. Check with a gauge when you get there, again regardless of what they tell you. To me probably one of the most important items to check on the motor. Most other items can be repaired fairly easily

- Before running the motor, remove the drain plug from the lower unit (with a rag handy) and check the color/condition of the gear oil. It should be black and pour out evenly. Any unusual bumps in black oil is likely water. If the oil is light tan/creamed coffee color, then there is a fair amount of water mixed in with the oil. Again, this speaks to the maintenance of the motor.

- While running, motor should shift smoothly and quietly. Any shifting noise (especially on muffs) is an indication of a worn dog that will be difficult to engage on the water.

- Lastly gauge the person you're buying it from. No one sells a perfect motor without reason. Did they upgrade? Are they getting out of boating? Why are they selling the motor? When did it last run? Was there a specific incident that caused them to sell it? All questions to help you understand the condition of the motor and what you may face when you get it home.

Good luck!
 
If the motor is not in running condition, assume the worst and negotiate your purchase accordingly. You can hope for something better than worst case scenario but I wouldn't recommend paying for much more than you can verify. Always test drive a motor if at all possible.
 
If the motor will not start. Try pouring a little gas or gas and oil mix into the carb. If it fires it probably just needs a carb clean.
 
I think the buyer needs to evaluate him/her self before purchasing a used outboard motor.

If any of these statements are true a used outboard may NOT be right for you...

1. I'm not handy at all.

2. I don't want to learn about maintaining or repairing a used motor.

3. I don't want to pay anyone to fix my motor.

4. I don't want any problems.

5. I want a unlimited lifetime warranty which covers everything known to man no matter how much abuse it. :lol:

...
 
How about a used outboard with a jet pump on it? Anything to look over on/in the pump? Have a line on a Johnson 88 special jet.
 
riverrat717 said:
How about a used outboard with a jet pump on it? Anything to look over on/in the pump? Have a line on a Johnson 88 special jet.
Check to see what kind of shape the impellers in and see if you can tell if there's any shims under the nut. The more shims you see the newer the impeller is once the impeller and liner start to wear you have to put more of the shims on top of the impeller. I think there's around 8 or 9 shims the best I can remember but don't quote me on that. Check to see if the liner has many grooves in it. Check for cracks in the shoe or the pump. Most of the time a good welder can fix a cracked pump.
 
I've bought a number of used outboards over the years. Normally, I won't buy one if I can't have my trusted mechanic check it out first. Sometimes that kills the deal. I don't feel that fixing outboards is in my wheel-house.

The last time I brought a boat/motor to my mechanic, he found scored pistons and we cancelled the transaction.

One time when I was looking at a boat/motor, the guy couldn't get the motor to start. It did have good compression. He hadn't changed the spark plugs in years. I had him buy (at his expense) two new plugs. Put them in and it started immediately. That one I did not have checked out and it turned out to be a fine motor for a number of years.

Another time the seller wouldn't let me take the boat to my mechanic, who was quite a distance. A local mechanic with a good reputation was just a few miles away. We made a phone call, and I agreed to pay the check-out fee. Took it in and I owned that boat that afternoon. Kept it for many years, too.

It is a gamble buying used motor, but I've been lucky and never got stuck, yet.

Biggest mistake that I ever made on a used motor was buying one that ran perfectly well. However, it was truly too small in H.P. to run the boat on which it was mounted. Even taking a test ride didn't convince me. Duhhhhh...

richg99
 
One of the simple things is to have the seller run the motor in water or on the hose with the muffs and see what the water pressure looks like coming out of the telltale. Then watch how it idles (is it shaking like it has a miss) or is it smooth. I would suggest having the seller pull a spark plug before starting it and shining a flashlight into the cylinder to look at the carbon buildup which could indicate regular maintenance or not.
 
I would also want to say, from personal experience if the motor has some age on it make sure parts are readily available. Just because it runs fine today does not mean it will not need a carb kit tomorrow. Motors like tohatsu and Nissan are great engines but if il you need a carb kit then good luck.
 
Tohatsu is one of the biggest motor manufacturers in the world. I Googled a carb kit for a Tohatsu and had a ton of options, including West Marine.

Tohatsu builds the Nissans and, I am told, also builds most of the small Mercury engines.


richg99
 
Google a carb kit for a M18C2, pre 2001 or any internal carb parts such as the main nozzle and let me know what you find. I had to resort to buying a parts motor to get mine fixed. I will tell you that tohatsu is a well built machine and is very dependable just make sure it doesn't have a lot of years on it or it. There are indeed many parts still available but there are a lot too that are not.
 
Johnny said:
If the seller says "it has good compression" - - - ask him how and when he last tested the motor
Reason: I talked with a guy on the phone the other day selling a 1961 40hp Johnson
he said "it has great compression".
Talked a little more about the motor, all seems good.... then I asked him the compression numbers.
He said, I dunno - but it will blow your finger right off the spark plug hole !!!
LOL so, ask for the numbers from an actual compression gauge . . . . and when was it tested.
I am NOT a mechanic - I learn as I go - most often, it is the hard and expensive way.

#1 - Some states require motors to be registered - know the laws in your state for registration issues.
oh - avoid the guy that tests compression with his finger
carry your own compression gauge. (be familiar with what is good and bad compression numbers).

I agree!!!!




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