Anti-Seize and Stuck Bolts in Aluminum (a reprint).

While working on a recently gifted 1966 33hp Johnson, most of the
bolts came out fine, fresh water only and well taken care of is making
it a fun and easy project ......
on the other hand, I have a 1960 40hp Johnson Super Sea Horse
that I started on the lower unit today and it appears to be a salt water
motor, the P/O ran it with water in the gear case, and also the bushings
are charred indicating that also possibly with no oil in the gear case . . .
I don't know what kind of Anti-Seize he used, but, it seems like there was
JB Weld in every screw and bolt on the lower unit.
It took most of the afternoon to get everything loose for new parts. Luckily, none broke off.
then to top it off - he put a steel (yes, STEEL) shear pin in the prop and it had to be drilled out.

So I would like to reiterate what Pappy strongly suggests about the anti-seize.

Originally Posted: 13 Jun 2012
When removing stuck bolts you can try the penetrating oil but if they still wont budge get at least a MAPP torch and heat the thread area until the paint is burned off or until the bolt starts moving. When the bolt stops rotating apply more heat.........go slowly and gently.
Never apply an anti-seize compound to an outboard unless you can find it with no metallic make-up. Anti-seize will add a third metal to the bond between the stainless bolt and the aluminum casting and immediately begin to corrode the casting. One of the best thread lubricants to use these days is the common Teflon Thread Sealant (PTFE) in liquid form. Even in salt water applications this stuff is used below the waterline on gearcase attachment hardware and water pump bolts and these bolts can be removed easily 2-3 years down the road. Freshwater much longer.

Click to expand...

So after today, I will swear off using any kind of Anti-Seize that has the metal content such as copper or aluminum.

I've used neversieze. moly type and never had an issue. But since I'm a plumber I have used teflon paste alot for under water protection.

One thing though if using a torque wrench or need exact setting be sure you can go back later to retorque as the paste will settle out and the fastener will have lost some of the tension. Takes about a day for the paste to work around.