74 Johnson 50hp any good?

Is this a good outboard? Says it has 140psi on the cylinders. Anything to watch out for? From what I've seen there is no tell tale to check the water pump function. Any help is appreciated. I could go with a 40hp evenrude as he has a couple of those as well from the 60s that aren't electric shift. Thanks. If the price is right ill pick up two outboards. Both running with great compression. Thanks!

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I see old Johnson's out on the water all of the time (no pun intended) :lol:

If it has good compression, lower unit oil is clean, tell tale is pissing, I'd say go for it (if you're getting a good deal of course).

You can always find parts for cheap on eBay.

Yep says it runs great. It's a Heck of a deal. I searched and found this one doesn't have a tell tale but there's a way to add one. I'll swap pumps once a year just for good measure. I didn't know if this one was electric shift or not.

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It is not electric shift and a very good motor .... you will love it.

Put Boysen reeds in it and one size bigger jets and it will really wake up!

ACAMS said:

It is not electric shift and a very good motor .... you will love it.

Put Boysen reeds in it and one size bigger jets and it will really wake up!

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Really? I'm all for hp mods. Where can i find the reeds and jets?

Texas Prowler said:

Yep says it runs great. It's a Heck of a deal. I searched and found this one doesn't have a tell tale but there's a way to add one. I'll swap pumps once a year just for good measure. I didn't know if this one was electric shift or not.

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The 1974 ignition system was a "different" system. Kind of a blend between the older points style ignition and the newer CD ignition.
That system can be a pain when it goes out and expensive to repair. That's just a FYI.
Watch the gear oil for the first few trips.
Before purchasing I would ask to see that engine in the water and idling in gear. If it has a decent idle and will hold that idle without slowing and stalling it should be a good powerhead.
As far as the reeds and fattening up the jets go....leave it alone. Anytime you richen the mixture on a 2-stroke you take horsepower away. The reeds on that particular engine are great and not prone to cracking and breaking like the fiberglass reeds are. Boyasens also are known for warping a bit and standing open at idle which creates a lean condition. They are more work than they are worth.
On the '60s 40hp engines. Any mechanical shift one will be okay however 1960 and 61 had crank issues as in cranks will break on them. The electric shifts are great as well but you will need the harness and shifter with it. Check the gear oil.

Thanks pappy. How hard is it to change the lower unit seals?

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Seals in the older 40hp gearcases are not hard at all and usually it is the shift shaft O-ring leaking.
On the 50hp you are talking about the seals are not difficult either unless the engine is a salt water engine.
Oh, and You're welcome!

Well that sounds good. I'll check out the outboards he has this upcoming week. I'll take a compression tester and some tools with me along with a fully charged starting battery. Ever hear of a West bend outboard? He says he has one with less then 100 hours on it.

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I don't argue, unless I get a chance and then I will argue with a fence post!

Like I said , AND I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE ...... Put Boysen reeds in it and one size bigger jets and it will really wake up!

Those engines usually have "C" jets in them, put "D" and order some Boysen reeds from whoever is the cheaper and you can install them yourself if you are mechanically inclined!

ACAMS said:

I don't argue, unless I get a chance and then I will argue with a fence post!

Like I said , AND I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE ...... Put Boysen reeds in it and one size bigger jets and it will really wake up!

Those engines usually have "C" jets in them, put "D" and order some Boysen reeds from whoever is the cheaper and you can install them yourself if you are mechanically inclined!

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No need for arguing, let's just discuss this matter as that are what forums are for(discussion). Will you speak from your experience with this motor moddified with the reeds and jets how it performed throughout the rpm range please. What was the difference you experienced from idle to wot? Thanks.

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Not picking sides or stirring but I would like to add a little to the conversation. I'm not sure on the older models 2 cylinders like the one being discussed here but on the 89 up models the 40hp models had their reed stops lower so the reeds couldn't open as much so that limited hp along with a larger volume head and smaller carbs vs the 50hp model. So when adding boyseen reeds the stops are remove allowing them to open more so a 40hp will normally see some gains. I've seen a couple different test on different motors including 90hp Yamaha, v6 omc and v6 mercury. The Yamaha was timed and gps'd. The v6 were dyno tested and the reeds being tested were boyseens, Chris Carsons and TDR. I remember on one of the test the boyseens made more power but it was noted they had already began to fray some what on the ends. Which is what pappy was talking about causing idling issues. Chris Carsons and TDR where about neck and neck power whise I think Carsons made a little more power and they both looked like new after the testing. You might be able to find the test over on scream and fly. I can say from my own testing I've seen as much as 2-3mph difference from one reed to the next with modified motors. Too thick of a reed and you loose hole shot and top end and too thin a they don't last long and they might not be as good for top end because they flutter at high rpm. Just depends on what your motor wants and finding the right reed for your setup.

Ok guys how much more horse power are we talking about after reeds are installed?

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Here, found test go to page #2 and you'll see the different test result. I'm not sure what to make of Eagle One's results because these days he doesn't have the best reputation around scream and fly so I'd take his results with a grain of salt but "Racer" (Al Stoker) is one of the most knowledgeable guys on the forum.
https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?225237-Which-reeds-(CCM-Boyesen-or-TDR)/page2&highlight=reed+testing

Looks like there's nothing to be had unless more modification is done to the reed cage/block[emoji24] . I'm ok with port and polishing Chevy head's and intakes but not up to date on outboards. I would be up for a better idle though.

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Double Post.

Texas Prowler said:

Ok guys how much more horse power are we talking about after reeds are installed?

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Cranks quicker, idles better and runs smoother throughout the RPM range with increased RPM and same prop. (really night and day difference)

I will admit I heard they wear out quicker, but have not noticed a difference on the 1974 50 HP motor in question that hits the river quite often and has been running strong for over a year so far.

You may even want to get a tach and dial in the prop.

Lil' Blue Rude said:

Here, found test go to page #2 and you'll see the different test result. I'm not sure what to make of Eagle One's results because these days he doesn't have the best reputation around scream and fly so I'd take his results with a grain of salt but "Racer" (Al Stoker) is one of the most knowledgeable guys on the forum.
https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?225237-Which-reeds-(CCM-Boyesen-or-TDR)/page2&highlight=reed+testing

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Have known Al for over 30 years now. He and I work together these days since he sold the dealership and moved. I worked with the same guys at OMC that Al picked up a bunch of his knowledge from. He is a good one for sure.
Do what you like with the reeds. From an eaarlier post it seems all you would have to add is a bit of SeaFoam and a set of NGK spark plugs and most likely you would wake up in the morning and the '74 50hp would be in the kitchen making your breakfast before setting water speed records that afternoon! :wink:

At the end of the day I'm in this for reliability. You guys don't want. Me too be here with another post like the one about the 402 merc... If something makes the engine run smoother it has to be better for the engines life expectancy. Though if the trade off is that part wearing out fast is not really worth the money spent on that part...

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I had one of the electric shift models (71 if I'm not mistaken) - dunno about the availability of parts for the e-shift, nothing ever went wrong with it. Solid motor.