I painted a merc outboard a while back and it came out fantastic,my question is this time I just plan on roughing the paint up and spraying it with phantom black paint. I pretty much know what I'm doing,only question I have is if I get down to any bare aluminum on the outboard and I use zc primer over it will over spraying the aluminum were a little gets on the roughed up paint hurt anything, in order word's will it adhere to the existing paint without issue because it's going to get on some of the paint.
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paint my merc outboard
- Thread starter scoobeb
- Start date
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The only issue would be with "Self Etching" primer
as it has been reported to have a characteristic of
tunneling under existing paint creating a pathway
for corrosion - regular ZC or automotive primer is very okay.
as it has been reported to have a characteristic of
tunneling under existing paint creating a pathway
for corrosion - regular ZC or automotive primer is very okay.
So i should have no issues with ZC?The outboard has nice paint on it but there is some spots that don't look to good,little spots that is why i'm in no rush.Plus i want to run this outboard till the fall here in fl to make sure it runs well and will last for the long run then i will just do a really light rough up and the whole outboard then shoot one or 2 coats on it,then wet sand the whole thing to take any imperfections out,clean it up one more time with vinegar and shoot 2 nice thin coats of black and i'm done with it.Let it dry for a few days and go have fun.
Now i use the merc phantom paint,is there any paint that will adhere much better that is the same exact black?I'm always open to help.I have had good luck with the merc paint.This is the one and only merc i have ever painted,tell me what you think,i have never ever had painted before so i think it came out good to me,lol.
Now i use the merc phantom paint,is there any paint that will adhere much better that is the same exact black?I'm always open to help.I have had good luck with the merc paint.This is the one and only merc i have ever painted,tell me what you think,i have never ever had painted before so i think it came out good to me,lol.
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do it just as you described - rough it up - paint it - go have fun.
Unless, you want that show-room finish to enter in boat shows and
win trophies. Once in the water, it will accumulate the oils and acids
that come with boating.......
ZC is fine . . . IMHO, vinegar does not remove all the oil and contaminants.
(you will probably never find vinegar in a automotive paint n body shop).
Personally, I use mineral spirits, naptha, xylene or acetone.
Depending on what I am painting.
Go to AutoZone - - - they have a nice selection of cleaners, primers and paints.
Do Not use self etching primers on painted surfaces.
If you are comfortable with the merc phantom paint, stick with it.
stripping it down to bare metal for a complete renovation is a different
set of rules altogether.
photos of your progress and completed project would be nice to see.
.
Unless, you want that show-room finish to enter in boat shows and
win trophies. Once in the water, it will accumulate the oils and acids
that come with boating.......
ZC is fine . . . IMHO, vinegar does not remove all the oil and contaminants.
(you will probably never find vinegar in a automotive paint n body shop).
Personally, I use mineral spirits, naptha, xylene or acetone.
Depending on what I am painting.
Go to AutoZone - - - they have a nice selection of cleaners, primers and paints.
Do Not use self etching primers on painted surfaces.
If you are comfortable with the merc phantom paint, stick with it.
stripping it down to bare metal for a complete renovation is a different
set of rules altogether.
photos of your progress and completed project would be nice to see.
.
Kismet
Well-known member
Looks pristine.
Nice job.
=D>
Nice job.
=D>
Ok johnny,I will use acetone instead. This is my plan, degrease the whole engine from top to bottom, then wet sand it just to rough it up a bit,clean it with acetone, spray one or two coats of spray paint, let it set for a while till it dries(how long should I wait to wet sand after the first 2 coats),wet sand again,clean with acetone again,shoot the final 2 coats, is that correct johnny? Please chime in if you can add anything I'm doing wrong or if it's perfect the way I just explained it? I want to do this so it will last for many, many yrs . I will take pics of the outboard while I'm working on it.
Kismet said:
Thanks, I worked extremely hard on it to,many man hrs and my hands were raw from all the wet sanding I did. It took me a few times to get It right but I eventually got it. 1st outboard I ever painted and I learned fast that more paint isn't always better.
I have one more question,I noticed some deeper scratches in some of the paint that go as deep as the metal.Do i just wet sand all the way till i hit it smooth on all the deep scratches,then just ZC any bare metal and then let it dry for a bit,then just spray away?I'm doing almost the whole motor except for were the metal shift shaft go and were the brackets are because of how much grease i put in all the little crevices and the inside of the bracket,it would be to much of a PITA to degrease every milk and cranny.I am going to do the outside of the brackets because like i said i loaded down the grease on the inside areas so the pin and tilt stuff would move freely and easily so i will just cover all that with like taped up newspaper.I'm concerned with like the whole body,lower cowling and the top cowling,tiller handle and lower unit.I just want to rough up the paint by wet sanding it the best i can get without going into the bare metal.
Looks great! Hours and hours and hours of prep and a few minutes painting. =D>
I painted just the lower and mid sections on one of mine back in Jan. Link https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=39780
Did the mount and T&T finally last week. 5 hours of sanding, 3 hours of taping and only 30 minutes of rattle canning.
Finally done with the engine, hull next.
Before.
After.
I painted just the lower and mid sections on one of mine back in Jan. Link https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=39780
Did the mount and T&T finally last week. 5 hours of sanding, 3 hours of taping and only 30 minutes of rattle canning.
Finally done with the engine, hull next.
Before.
After.
Looks cherry,very nice job. I could probably leave mine alone as it looks good but I know and see were the previous owner just did a sloppy job by trying to touch it up,he used crappy paint,the wrong paint,etc....I believe if your going to paint it do it right the first time,take your sweet time and make it as nice as possible. I'm actually going to repaint nearly the whole engine, all I'm leaving off is like behind the mounting brackets because they are all lubed up with fresh grease and you can't see it anyways. So 95% of it will be repainted. It's to much of a PITA to clean every crevice that has grease on it like I said especially since you can't see any of it. Once I get going I will post pics before and after,it looks cherry now to the naked eye but close up you can see every imperfection and all the crappy over spray onto the original factory paint,oh well,gives me a project to do for when it cools down here in like oct,Nov. I want low humidity and like a 75-80 degree day to work on it so it makes it fun to do and not miserable in the heat,you know how hot it gets here,lol. Ok once I start I will post start to finish. Like I said to most people it would be good to go but I plan on keeping this a very long time so I may as well invest my time in it.nowgrn4 said:Looks great! Hours and hours and hours of prep and a few minutes painting. =D>
I painted just the lower and mid sections on one of mine back in Jan. Link https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=39780
Did the mount and T&T finally last week. 5 hours of sanding, 3 hours of taping and only 30 minutes of rattle canning.
Finally done with the engine, hull next.
Before.
After.
I took a tooth brush and mineral spirits to the greasy bits then Simple Green and a pressure washer to it before I started sanding. It's all in the prep. Guess your prior owner skipped the PITA hard part, prep. Spraying is the easy part.
no need to use a hot solvent after every cleaning......
soap and water or degreaser just to check your progress
is all that is needed.
not a wet dripping rag of hot solvent - just a damp rag
prior to painting is all that is needed.
Too much hot solvent may (or not) weaken the bond
on existing paint that has been sanded.
If you want a solvent wash after each sanding, use mineral spirits.
much less aggressive than acetone.
jus my Dos Centavos
.
soap and water or degreaser just to check your progress
is all that is needed.
not a wet dripping rag of hot solvent - just a damp rag
prior to painting is all that is needed.
Too much hot solvent may (or not) weaken the bond
on existing paint that has been sanded.
If you want a solvent wash after each sanding, use mineral spirits.
much less aggressive than acetone.
jus my Dos Centavos
.
Excellent, I will use mineral spirits or dawn soap and water between the coats and my final one were I'm ready to finish coat it would acetone be ok then? I did use alcohol and vinegar on that merc you see and the paint came out I mean good and strong from what I saw, along different situations,I did mostly bare metal last time,this time I just want to rough up the paint a bit,clean and paint. Wet sand, paint,wait I believe an hr or so,wet sand any imperfections,clean again,spray 2 more thin coats and if it looks as good as my last one I'm done, let it fry thoroughly Before taking her out
Once completely painted should I wax it?
Once completely painted should I wax it?
Scoob - after you get finished with all that you describe,
yes - wax it, put it on the appropriate motor stand and
put it in your office and never use it on a boat again.
yes - wax it, put it on the appropriate motor stand and
put it in your office and never use it on a boat again.
I keep wanting to try to fix up my 1994 Mercury 60/45 jet (hood is cracked thanks to a tree branch falling on it during Sandy) but since the boat sits in the water 24/7 from Apr through Oct I think it's better off leaving it look beat up so nobody will have the urge to try to steal it off the boat. I do have a very good condition Mariner/Tracker hood that I might try to restore.
Boat insurance my friend,it's so cheap to insure a boat that i can't understand for the life of me why everyone doesn't do it.It makes me laugh when i see these ads on craigslist $1000 reward for the person who finds my stolen outboard.Yet they could of bought 5yrs worth of insurance for that.I will never understand.You insure your car,you should insure a nice boat at least imo. m y engine or whole rig gets stolen i get a check in the mail within a week.I pay $185 a yr for a brand new jon boat rig i paid near $6k for.Anything gets stolen off of it i'm covered as long as it's on my boat.Coolers,fishing tackle,rods and reels,etc....It's all covered.
Now i make it hard for a thief to steal as i have cables and locks all over my boat but if a thief wants it he's going to get it no matter what you do.
Now i make it hard for a thief to steal as i have cables and locks all over my boat but if a thief wants it he's going to get it no matter what you do.
scoobeb said:
I have insurance, but replacing a 1994 short shaft jet 60/45 outboard probably won't be easy. Insurance probably wouldn't cover 1/6 the price of a new jet outboard. But on the up side, everyone else out on the river has a newer motor than me so if somebody wanted to steal a motor, it would most likely be someone else.
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