Phantom 'no oil' alarm on OMC w/ VRO2 - SOLVED!

Weird ... 1996 OMC 60hp, new to me, but had been running on a buddy's boat. He kept his harness for his new motor. I bought new harness and installed the motor, all connections appear sound and 'no leftover' wires or connections anywhere.

Only I did was disconnect the VRO2 system. Yes, these allegedly are supposed to be bullet-proof on these models, but 2 things influenced my decision: (1) No room in the stern of my skiff for the oil reservoir and (2) I run other skiffs with OMC tanks and connections - that are pre-mix - so I was thinking if I was in need of fuel, I could just grab another full pre-mixed tank.

Anyway, I do have the OMC original OEM service manual and capped off the VRO2 system as stated. Motor started and ran on muffs in driveway, with no alarms, but I know better than to diagnose things when running on muffs. I do get the confirmation 'self diagnosis' beep when the ignition key is 1st turned to ON.

Launched (finally!) for this season on SAT and 15-mins into the motor running at high idle (1000 to 1200 RPMs) at the dock to warm up, while I did other chores to get ready to set out ... and I get an intermittent warning horn BEEP every 1-1/2 seconds or so. Wot the .. ??? As per my service manual, this motor only has 3 alarms - overheat (SLOW mode, constant warning horn beep, low oil (short beep every 40 seconds) and no oil (continuous short beeps). With the VRO disconnected, I should have zero alarms.

So it appears I have a phantom 'no oil' alarm. Any ideas? I tested the overheat alarm circuit by grounding the OB-side of the tan lead from the powerhead to the block with the key ON and it sounded continuously as it should.

... I admit to being kafuddled ... w/ service manual and all ...and I've been around OMC motors for 40-years ... LOL.

... other than the scum line on the hull from the original boat owner that won't come off :roll: , less mechanically sanding it off ... and i was tad low on the waterline at the stern (due to 60hp weight over the 40hp it replaced) and all else was well.

Boat is moored 24/7 on a saltwater estuary ... where we have 9-1/2' tides!

I have a 96 200 hp with the VRO connected.

at one point several years ago I had a similar alarm. I dont recall all the details about it

there was an alarm switch that went bad. It was on the port side down low on the powerhead, I think it had a oil or vac line running to it and of course wires. It was hard to get to.

did you disconnect or bypass this switch? If not maybe you need to do something with it

All I remember was it was an alarm for oil delivery

may have nothing to do with your issue but it just came to mind

thanks

perchjerker said:

I have a 96 200 hp with the VRO connected.

at one point several years ago I had a similar alarm. I dont recall all the details about it

there was an alarm switch that went bad. It was on the port side down low on the powerhead, I think it had a oil or vac line running to it and of course wires. It was hard to get to.

did you disconnect or bypass this switch? If not maybe you need to do something with it

All I remember was it was an alarm for oil delivery

may have nothing to do with your issue but it just came to mind

thanks

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V6s have a vacuum switch for "fuel restrictions" but if I recall correctly this was a constant tone alarm (at 3/4s throttle and above) like the overheat, less the SLOW mode was enabled.

In fact, it ran off the same circuit with a blocking diode to prevent the SLOW mode coming on (intentionally mis-times the OB) for fuel restrictions.

This VRO2 oil system is the 2-wire one ... not the newer 4-wire with System Check, and the 2 leads are right there, low on the port side of the motor. I jut caped them with adhesive-lined heatshrink. Whereas I have the old oil tank the guy had used, maybe I should just temporarily hook it up and see what happens ...

I just snipped the #4 tan/yellow (No oil) and #5 tan/black (low oil) wires going into the system check tachometer. But, I deleted the VRO pulse pump and wiring completely on my '03 50HP and retrofitted the old style pulse type fuel pump as used on the 48HP "Special". YMMV.

Pappy said:

Dale, did you specifically disconnect the harness from the pump?
That houses the only sender for the NO OIL portion of the alarm. If you did this would indicate you have a gauge that is failing or you have a harness with a short in it (rodent damage or whatever).

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Harness Disconnect - I did not, my friend I bought it from did. He brought over the old oil tank today, as he upgraded to an E-Tec.

Oil Tank - 2-wire system, black lead and tan ... and those are the only wires on the port side ANYWHERE where I have opposite sex bullet connectors to mate to them. If I connect them (ones on engine) together I get an alarm tone.

Gauges & Harness- Not using system check, I bought a new length harness for my length needed, with a new control, tach and trim gauges only, no System Check.

nowgrn4 said:

I just snipped the #4 tan/yellow (No oil) and #5 tan/black (low oil) wires going into the system check tachometer.

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Thank for the input, but I have the simple 2-wire (black and tan) lead VRO2 system.

My plans ...

I'm heading to the boat tomorrow afternoon with a complete other gas line and tank (pre-mixed) just to rule out fuel source. I am also bringing the oil tank - now empty - but will connect to the engine leads and whereas I an running pre-mix 50-to-1, if anything ... hmmmmmmmm, was going to say I'd get the low oil alarm, but I guess I better bring some extra oil to place in the tank for the test.

We'll see what happens ...

I did monitor powerhead temps all along with digital laser gauge and all was as expected, so I know it's not an overheat, plus the alarm horn tone/pulse is different. I once had an Ocean Runner with a failed vacuum switch triggering the fuel restriction alarm beep, but the manual for this OB says it doesn't have one.

Pappy - Is it possible I got a harness for a "smarter" V4 or V6 motor with more alarming - which I am not using - and that's why the phantom alarm? The harness had red amphenol on the motor end, w/ lead astride it for tilt/trim. The control box end of the harness has newer Deutsch connectors, but the control I got with it had the Deutsch connectors with the old style in case ... so it looks like a hybrid ... could fit either vintage motor or adapt older motor to newer 'system check' gauges?

Thanks Pappy - I'll check tonight, as I'm heading to the boat to do more diagnosis.

As far as the horn, even when I 1st turn the ignition key to ON, it is the faintest OMC horn I've ever heard. As far as bad horns ... darn it ... I have a spare one from years ago (purchased 2011 or so) that I didn't use.

But I left it at home ... maybe I should head out of work early to go get that horn. The way this harness is dressed, the horn isn't in the control box, but affixed to the harness about 2' out from the Detusch connector that connects to the control box.

I've seen some pretty funky things happen when ignition switches fail and of course, with grounds - anything is possible ... I've seen some weird things happen with faulty grounds.

Thanks again ! I'll provide updates! Cheers,

Simple fix ... previous owner made cap from right size amphenol conn for VEO2, but 'connected' the wires, by metal 'U' gizmo inside, instead of leaving open. I bought the 'blue-colored' cap off plug from my local dealer.

Thanks all!!!

For the "scum line", there is a product called Iron Out. I found it at Wal-Mart. Mix it in a spray bottle, spray the boat, and the scum line should dissappear. This stuff worked great on my fiberglass boat.

bobby_bates said:

For the "scum line", there is a product called Iron Out. I found it at Wal-Mart. Mix it in a spray bottle, spray the boat, and the scum line should dissappear. This stuff worked great on my fiberglass boat.

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I'll try that - thanks! And even better ... I'll report back my results!