anybody lightly squeeze primer bulb during wot?

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sinkingfast

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 5, 2014
Messages
262
Reaction score
17
I don't like to run wot for very long unless necessary. But when I do I squeeze the bulb lightly to guarantee fuel flow as I do not want to run dry for any reason. Like when the weather turns and I have waited a little to long to head in. I have the bulb right at my side. Might be harder to locate bulb near helm on larger boat though..

It just seems like the right thing to do. Anybody else do this or am I just not right in the head...or both...

Oh..2 stroke omc15
 
I don't get it? But I also do not see the seafoam treatment thing either except maybe for storage.
That decarbon treatment seems bogus to me.
Tim
 
earl60446 said:
I don't get it? But I also do not see the seafoam treatment thing either except maybe for storage.
That decarbon treatment seems bogus to me.
Tim

Well..we used to use soot destroyer on oil boilers to clean soot off of it. One would spray it on..let it soak for a while...and light it with a match. It would burn off the soot. Maybe thats how seafoam works?

Issue is if it runs lean at wot for any reason its not good. Never ever. And since problems happen at the worst time I just keep it in my hand at wot until port. Kinda like a fuel pressure gauge. And at lesser speeds if it goes off song I can grab the bulb and squeeze to check fuel delivery to the carb quickly.

I have used seafoam on my service van to clean the injectors. It did run smoother until the next load of fuel..
 
I never have. The float bowl is full of fuel and forcing more fuel through the fuel pump and forcing fuel past the needle valve just doesn't seam right if the motor is operating correctly. If you think the fuel pump is not going to supply the needed fuel you can rebuild the fuel pump.
 
Sorry for my poor wordsmithing..I just keep pressure on it..not blow fuel by. I have a long history with 2 stroke dirt bikes and have seized several from fuel starvation. Thats okay when I can push home. But to paddle home several miles..

I had trouble finding the words for my post. I feel okay on 4 stroke pumps since it rides on a cam. Most all issues I've had on ob's that has left me stranded have been fuel delivery related.

I guess its just a thang with me...
 
Got home a couple of times by squeezing the bulb. You have to do that it's a sign something's wrong. Don't squeeze till you have to.
 
there should be no reason to squeeze the bulb at WOT if the carb is set properly and everythign is functioning properly.

Here's a thought, you could run the motor and low speed for a while, stop and drain the carb bowl - measure that amount of fuel.
run the test again but at WOT for a while without squeezing the bulb and kill it - measure the amount of fuel. see if the engine is actually maintaining adequate levels.
 
earl60446 said:
I don't get it? But I also do not see the seafoam treatment thing either except maybe for storage.
That decarbon treatment seems bogus to me.
Tim
Are you a seafoam hater or just in a haten mood? Seafoam does exactly what it says it will do. If you have a really gummed up 2 stroke (even to the point where the rings are sticking) use it like they say to clean a gummed up motor. And after you can use a little with each tank to keep it from happening. I cleaned up an old outboard that was real bad and did the concentrated clean overnight. Two weeks later I took the head off and it was completely clean and went from low 70s compression to 120 compression. Seafoam works.
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
Just rebuild the fuel pump & not worry about it.

I usually purchase a Mikuni single outlet pump to replace the oem pump. No springs on the valves to add head to the pump.

Its about the cruelty of statistics and redundancy. When one absolutely needs to get home now is when stuff happens. In my life experience, like when getting to the lock before closing, I'll catch a bag or weeds or something to make me late. Overnight on my 1232 jon, and waiting for the lock to open the next day to let me through really sucks. So I back up any system I can, redundancy, to put statistics more in my favor.

I did get gray early...hmm..
 
I squeeze the bulb when first starting my old 2S and once running I don't touch it unless there is some problem. I don't see what it does for you.
 
Sinkingfast said:
.I just keep pressure on it..not blow fuel by. I have a long history with 2 stroke dirt bikes and have seized several from fuel starvation.
.
I have the same problem and yes I give the bulb a squeeze every now and then just to see if any slight change is noticed in the motor. One time I seized a moped while WFO on a long down hill. I was adjusting the air screew to eek out a few more mph. Not fun locking up the rear tire at speed with only one hand on the bars.

Any two stroke can seize when run out of gas. One problem is that the liquid fuel has oil but when it runs out of liquid it runs off of fumes in the tank and carb for a while. Fumes do not contain oil so they can seize. I see people getting ready to pull the boat out and disconnect gas lines to drain the fuel out of the carbs. Next they rev the engine. Not as bad as running tanks dry but they still run on oil fumes for a few seconds. Let it run out at idle speed.

Gummed up ethanol fuel and fuel separation from water causes lean conditions too. Ever noticed when people mention lean they call it "lean burn" but you never hear "rich burn"? Ever notice most every thread when sombody is asking about buying a boat or motor that somebody says to do a compression test? That checks for a million hour motor or one that was run lean and lost compression.

Keeping your primer bulb handy is a good way to make sure fuel is right. If it's not firm when running and you can squeeze fuel in while running at wot then you may have just saved your motor by finding a problem with fuel delivery. It can't hurt.
 
THATS IT!....exactly my thoughts...Its not like we have a pyro meter or anything...

Just today the wind started to blow and we needed to get home now..3 miles or so. We ran wot and I lightly pumped the bulb with my foot just to make sure there was no fuel issue at all on our way home.

You sir have been around the block more than once.. =D>
 
Oh..about that moped..many of them with oil injection would seize going down hill with the throttle off. The oil pump was also connected to the throttle..less throttle less oil. So going down hill at wot and no throttle...

Thanx for the blast from the past...
 
That reminds me of trucks or rock crawlers with a granny low first. If you hold the clutch in and coast downhill the clutch spins so fast it shatters. The gear reduction goes both ways.
 
jethro said:
You should not have to squeeze the primer bulb at all while the motor is running. If you do it indicates a fault.

Gollygeewhiz...I have made posts without thoroughly reading prier posts also. So I can tell you didn't get it..

Its all about redundancy in important systems. There is no fuel pressure indicator on these motors. Why not back up an important system when one should or can. Maybe you haven't had an "oh crap..I'm done" moment..I've had several. You have more faith that bad things won't happen than I do. Think about the term "cruelty of statistics" and how it applies to life.
Its kinda like racing ones auto around the streets with a passenger or others on the road. Why would something go wrong at that moment since it has not happened yet..much like a fuel system go down running wot from a storm. Other outboard systems are outa our hands but not the fuel system.

And yes...one should not have to operate the backup pump in normal operation unless there is a fault. But when times get critical why not keep track of fuel pressure...
 
When I tuned up my boat I rebuilt the carbs and fuel pump. All fuel lines, primer bulb and fuel filer was replaced. I even removed the built in tank to give it a quick rinse. All new but guess what I do anyway...
I check that primer bulb every once in a while. At least I know exactly what it feels like when everthing is new and functioning properly. Now I stumbled across the same boat that's a foot and half longer so I'll do the same thing. Kinda hope I get to water test the new one before the old one sells and I change my mind. I love these hulls https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/boa/6108880840.html
 
Stumpalump said:
When I tuned up my boat I rebuilt the carbs and fuel pump. All fuel lines, primer bulb and fuel filer was replaced. I even removed the built in tank to give it a quick rinse. All new but guess what I do anyway...
I check that primer bulb every once in a while. At least I know exactly what it feels like when everthing is new and functioning properly. Now I stumbled across the same boat that's a foot and half longer so I'll do the same thing. Kinda hope I get to water test the new one before the old one sells and I change my mind. I love these hulls https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/boa/6108880840.html[/quote

First I've seen that boat design..if it was flat in the front i'd get one! I use mine also to transport my mountain bike to the islands so the flat front will land and be steady to unload the bike. Mine is a 1232 jon..wished it was a 1252....

2 years ago I rebuilt my small block omc 15. Spent a full winter reading 4 boat forums from end to end. Then spent 1 month doing the work. First time out a ziploc bag wrapped around the lowers water intake. Yup..so now I have a thermal switch set at 170F mounted on the head. Never caught a bag or overheated again.

Thanx for the primer article. I had to pull the springs outa my bulb as they were way too strong and adds to the pumping head. Didn't realize there were bulbs without springs one could buy. Buy cheap get cheap..
 

Latest posts

Top