1982 Johnson 9.9 - recoil starter issues

I have a '82 Johnson 9.9 and the pull rope won't retract back into the recoiler. I've tried rewinding it back onto the spool and it still won't retract so I'm assuming something broke within the part.

Does anyone have any experience with this or have any tips of what I should try before taking this apart? I've hit it with penetrating oil and that helped a bit.

Of course this happens now at the beginning of the season!

I would like to correct this myself rather than waiting for a shop to get around to it. If it is a recoiler replacement, are these easy to disassemble/reassemble? I've never done this before so I'd appreciate any and all advice!

I just rebuilt my 1982 15 HP, which should be the same. Yes, it's fairly easy.

Let me ask you, is the end of the recoil spring still protruding from the slot in the starter base cup, or did it get pulled in?

CMOS

it's still protruding in the cup

It's possible that the other end of the recoil spring broke loose from the spring retainer and retainer pin. Time to pull it off. Best to remove the flywheel. It's easy to do. Pull the whole starter assembly off but don't pull out the main mounting screw too far which will make the whole assembly fall apart. I say this because it's better IMO to slowly disassemble it to see what went wrong.

Go here to look at a good diagram of the parts.

https://www.leeroysramblings.com/Johnson 9.9_15.htm

I suspect when you take it apart it will be apparent what has broken. Once we figure this out I'll IM you my phone number so I can walk you through it.

CMOS

I would not pull the flywheel. That assembly will come out without pulling the flywheel.

timsmcm said:

I would not pull the flywheel. That assembly will come out without pulling the flywheel.

Click to expand...

It will but IMO it's much easier to pull the flywheel.



CMOS

I had the same issue on my 1979 9.9 Evinrude when I rebuilt the starter. Everything looked fine, then I realized I tightened the main both down too much and it was preventing the coil from retracting the rope. I had to find the right amount of pressure for it to work properly and stay in place.

Before I did anything I would try and give it a good shot of light weight oil or even wd40. I had the same problem and it was fine after a good spray down to rinse it out.

First, thanks to everyone that responded.

I pulled the starter out and matched up the starter to the diagram, part for part, and everything seems fine. I found no broken parts. The pin that attaches to the coiler was in tact. I have to say, taking this off and on was rather simple.

Now, I am at a real loss because since nothing is broken (atleast to my novice eyes) and the starter still won't work. Any other ideas?

You said, "I've tried rewinding it back onto the spool and it still won't retract."

How did you try to rewind it back?

If nothing is broken you have the choice between winding the recoil assembly CCW a few turns to get some more recoil, or replace the recoil spring while you have the thing apart to begin with (recommended).

CMOS

I was really rewinding the rope back onto the spool.

Let me ask, if the coil is still intact and I rewind it, how do I know if I tightened the coil enough? Any tips on that?

If you want to try to wind the spring a bit more, here's my suggestion, along with a warning:

Pull the pull-start handle out a bit, maybe 6-12 inches and cut the rope just behind the handle. Allow the rope to be pulled back into the cowling. Pull the end of the recoil started spring out of the bottom cup slot about 1 full inch and secure it there with a small vice grip. The point here is to not allow that end loop get pulled against the cup slot. It needs to be AT LEAST 1/2 from the cup. The vice grips will prevent this from happening. Wind the rope around the spool a few times in CCW direction so that the recoil spring gets "tighter".

Once you have done this you can feed the rope back through the cowling and re-tie the pull handle.

Here are the problems you can run into (believe me, I KNOW...):

You are shortening the pull rope with this method. Not by much but you are. If the previous owner, or some num-nuts that worked on it before, did not put a full length rope on there you will run the high risk of making that spring loop end pull INTO the starter assembly cup when you pull that cord out at the boat ramp. I hope that made sense. I "experienced" this little joy before.

The other thing you will run into is when you are feeding the rope back through the front of the cowling the starter gear is going to want to lift up and engage the flywheel. That's one reason I suggested removing the flywheel from the start.

Good luck. I'd be happy to discuss on the phone if needed.

CMOS

Thanks for the additional ideas. Tomorrow is out but I'll try it next week. I really appreciate the ideas. I just hopes it works!

Be careful when you reinstall it as the fastener hole threads on the block are notorious for stripping.

CMOS said:

That's one reason I suggested removing the flywheel from the start.


CMOS

Click to expand...

Or one can pull the drag clip on the gear...that flywheel can be daunting to some...

I can say the recoil mounting bolt can be a real bun of a sitch as the washer under that bolt head will hit the flywheel when installing. I have come close to cross threading cause of that...

Jmar said:

I had the same issue on my 1979 9.9 Evinrude when I rebuilt the starter. Everything looked fine, then I realized I tightened the main both down too much and it was preventing the coil from retracting the rope. I had to find the right amount of pressure for it to work properly and stay in place.

Click to expand...

Then you are missing the spacer washer. You should be able to tighten it up good and snug.

timsmcm said:

Jmar said:

I had the same issue on my 1979 9.9 Evinrude when I rebuilt the starter. Everything looked fine, then I realized I tightened the main both down too much and it was preventing the coil from retracting the rope. I had to find the right amount of pressure for it to work properly and stay in place.

Click to expand...

Then you are missing the spacer washer. You should be able to tighten it up good and snug.

Click to expand...

Agreed. That's a shoulder bolt, and is designed to snug right down to the stop.


CMOS