Mini Jack plate install

FormerParatrooper · Oct 18, 2017

Does anyone have any advice for installing a mini jacker late? Plan to use it for my 25hp. My cavitation plate rests about 2 inches below my hull.

The one I am looking at is from bass pro: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/mini-jacker-for-clamp-on-outboards#tab1

Does not come with hardware. What have you used?

Will be placed on a 1979 MirroCraft 14ft.

What are the pitfalls to be aware of?

lckstckn2smknbrls · Oct 18, 2017

I used Stainless steel 3/8" bolts, washers and nylock nuts. I attached my motor to the mini jacker and with the help of my nephew I set the motor on a floor jack at the transom of my boat. I then pumped the jack up until I had the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the hull and took a few measurements. I removed the mini jacker from the motor, clamped it to the transom made sure it was at the needed height, level and centered. Then I drill thru the dimples on the mini jacker, I started with 1/4" bit and worked my way up to 3/8".
For every inch of set back you can raise the motor about 1/4". I drill out a few more dimples so I could raise the motor higher. I ended up about with my cavitation plate about 2" above the bottom of the hull. As long as the motors water pick up is getting water you can run the motor pretty high.

FormerParatrooper · Oct 19, 2017

lckstckn2smknbrls said:
I used Stainless steel 3/8" bolts, washers and nylock nuts. I attached my motor to the mini jacker and with the help of my nephew I set the motor on a floor jack at the transom of my boat. I then pumped the jack up until I had the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the hull and took a few measurements. I removed the mini jacker from the motor, clamped it to the transom made sure it was at the needed height, level and centered. Then I drill thru the dimples on the mini jacker, I started with 1/4" bit and worked my way up to 3/8".
For every inch of set back you can raise the motor about 1/4". I drill out a few more dimples so I could raise the motor higher. I ended up about with my cavitation plate about 2" above the bottom of the hull. As long as the motors water pick up is getting water you can run the motor pretty high.

Excellent. I like the idea of mounting the motor to the jack plate first, less chance of error. Thank you

Pappy · Oct 19, 2017

Or.....
You can trim your outboard so that the cavitation plate is parallel with the bottom of the boat.
Run a straight edge out from the bottom of the boat and note the measurement from the straight edge to the cavitation plate. Write down that measurement.
Remove the engine.
Again, run a straight edge along the bottom of the boat and extend it out behind the boat enough to measure Perpendicular from the straight edge up to the transom top where the engine bolts on. Write down the measurement. Do NOT measure along the transom surface down to the straight edge. Make it a perp. or 90 degree measurement.
Now.....clamp your new jack plate to the transom and adjust using that same straight edge and your measurements. Drill your holes, mount the plate, and you are done.
Lets say you find, using your straight edge off the bottom, that your engine is 1.5" below the bottom
Lets also say that your transom measured 16.5" from the straight edge to the top of the transom.
You would need to set the jack plate 1.5" higher or at an 18" measurement. Clamp the plate on and measure from the straight edge and adjust the plate to 18". Mount it!

FormerParatrooper · Oct 20, 2017

Thanks Pappy. You always have sage advice.

wmk0002 · Oct 26, 2017

If you aren't totally set on the minijacker yet, look into the Dillon Racing Jackplate plans. You should be able to build it for about the same cost, if not less, and will be able manually adjust it. I haven't personally built one yet, but it's on my list of things to do this winter.

https://www.dillon-racing.com/jackplate/index.htm

huntersdad · Oct 27, 2017

wmk0002 said:
If you aren't totally set on the minijacker yet, look into the Dillon Racing Jackplate plans. You should be able to build it for about the same cost, if not less, and will be able manually adjust it. I haven't personally built one yet, but it's on my list of things to do this winter.

https://www.dillon-racing.com/jackplate/index.htm

I built the dillion racing style jackplate last year and installed on my jonboat due to having a long shaft motor on a short transom. On the website there is a link that you can go to to get the detailed drawings themselves with all the measurements. It's a digital download and I think it was around 10 dollars when I bought it. I purchased my aluminum from online metals and shipping wasn't that bad. If you live close to a supplier that deals with aluminum of that size and thickness then you may be able to get one built cheaper than I did including the stainless bolts. Once I got mine dialed in I have never adjusted it but I do have the option if needed.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

FormerParatrooper · Oct 27, 2017

The jack plate looks good. I already got the one from Bass Pro. With deer season coming and a heavy workload for the job, it may be spring before I install it.

Mini Jack plate install

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