1989 Evinrude Trim/Tilt

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kalninm

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Last fall when I started working on my Tracker rebuild I found my trim motor was low so I used some transmission fluid to top it off and it worked great last fall before I put it away. Now after some more in depth reading I see I probably shouldn't have used the transmission fluid as it can be hard on the seals. Well this spring it came time to start working on some motor updates and the trim wasn't working. There wasn't a puddle under it or anything but as I tried to use the trim you could hear the motor just fine but it wouldn't move. Finally after some closer inspection I found some of the transmission fluid I used to fill it on the outside of the trim/tilt assembly. I decided to see how low it really was so I opened up the "empty" hole on the bottom and maybe two drops came out......so obviously thats a problem as it should gush out. So now I'm thinking I have some bad seals, can't tell where but thats what I'm thinking. I'm looking at a $80 seal kit for it but it looks like its a rough job. I'm up to try it but was hoping someone could chime in on here with any pointers regarding this. Considering a new trim/tilt assembly is over a grand I won't be doing that, so looks like a rebuild is my best option but it seems a bit daunting.
 
kalninm said:
Last fall when I started working on my Tracker rebuild I found my trim motor was low so I used some transmission fluid to top it off and it worked great last fall before I put it away. Now after some more in depth reading I see I probably shouldn't have used the transmission fluid as it can be hard on the seals. Well this spring it came time to start working on some motor updates and the trim wasn't working. There wasn't a puddle under it or anything but as I tried to use the trim you could hear the motor just fine but it wouldn't move. Finally after some closer inspection I found some of the transmission fluid I used to fill it on the outside of the trim/tilt assembly. I decided to see how low it really was so I opened up the "empty" hole on the bottom and maybe two drops came out......so obviously thats a problem as it should gush out. So now I'm thinking I have some bad seals, can't tell where but thats what I'm thinking. I'm looking at a $80 seal kit for it but it looks like its a rough job. I'm up to try it but was hoping someone could chime in on here with any pointers regarding this. Considering a new trim/tilt assembly is over a grand I won't be doing that, so looks like a rebuild is my best option but it seems a bit daunting.
Well to ease you mind a little if it was already low adding trans. fluid to probably didn't cause you anymore problems than you had. Some people say add trans. fluid will even help a "dry" seal as the seal conditioner in trans. fluid sometimes will rejuvenate them. A torn seal nothing but replacing it will fix that.

As to the job at hand, if your motor hasn't seen salt water you shouldn't be looking at such a terrible job. You will be ahead of the game getting a factory service manual for it. Also you need to identify where it is leaking. You may get lucky and it be a seal you don't have to totally dismantle it to replace.

Pappy most likely will see this and is more familiar with this particular model than I am and knows the particulars of it like the back of his hand.
 
Your engine should have the single ram on it. You have already priced the kit and that's a good thing.
As far as the job goes, with the proper tools (spanner wrench) for the ram cap it can be pretty simple.
I use a hoist with a rope tied around the gearcase to raise the engine and take the load off the system.
Remove the upper ram pin and, if you choose you can then take your engine and lift it over-center and lay in the splashwell to get it out of the way or keep it suspended on the rope.
Remove the end cap and take the ram and end cap to your work area, remove the end cap and replace the seals. Be super careful of the springs and balls. Do not let them drop and escape! Re-install the assembly and, with the engine tilted fully up, fill the system.
You may have to let the system rest for a while after cycling to allow the bubbles/air to settle out and top off again. Use the proper fluid. You will find that the fluid is almost clear, not red. Seals are sensitive to trans fluid.
You're done.
 
See if this helps for refilling your trim/tilt system. Pappy - If you had any corrections to this info ... I'd surely like to know it, thanks!

Filling OB Hydraulic Trim/Tilt Systems:
To properly check the fill, the trim/tilt rams must be extended. Raise OB all the way up. If you can't via the trim motor, then back off the manual release valve and with extra help, tilt/raise the OB all the way up and set it on its mooring/full raise lock, or some type of block (for safety) and then re-tighten the release valve.

Tilt reservoirs are easier and best filled IMHO when the boat is on a trailer, as you can lower the tongue all the way to the ground, as you want the tilt/trim reservoir as straight up & down as you can get it. This procedure is also best done IMHO with a helper to assist you, as they will keep their finger on the t/t UP button on the OB cowl, when needed.

Trim/tilt the OB all the way up and engage the full-up tilt support (or use a block ... as you do NOT want an OB to fall on any bodypart :shock: !). Slowly open the t/t reservoir cap (allowing air to escape) and insert the trim fluid tube/nozzle. I use a small long/slender nozzle on the end of the recommended trim fluid container to help keep it in there. Some people report using am empty and clean 'squeeze ketchup' bottle ... hey, whatever works!

Now this is where your assistant comes in. Have them press AND hold the t/t UP button as you put in ALL the fluid it will take. Keep pressing UP while the OB goes all the way up (off its supports), you will hear the t/t motor hit the bypass valve (the motor sound will change) and until the t/t reservoir won't take any more fluid and it starts to drip/gush out. Mind you, your helper's finger is still ON the UP button ... and while their finger is still pressing the UP button, quickly put the trim reservoir cap back on. All done! DO NOT let them them remove their finger from the UP button until the cap is completely on.

FYI: The concept behind "holding the UP button pressed while filling" allows the trim motor to suck in all of the fluid it can via the hydraulic system. Doing so in this manner, you should not have to top off the reservoir again, hopefully for a loooooong time.

Bleeding OB Trim/Tilt Systems:
OB tilt/trim units are "self-bleeding" and you should always perform these "purge cycles" to follow even if you don't need to add any more fluid. To purge/check, remove the tilt lock (if engaged) or block and cycle the OB down by "jogging" it down, in 2-3 seconds runs. Then rest the motor a few seconds (akin to NOT cranking on a starter motor continuously), then cycle it UP all the way in one long blast.

Rest/pause again ... 10 seconds or more ... then repeat that complete cycle a few more times to ensure that it has bled all the air out of the t/t system. When bled of all air, you won't hear bubbling or gurgling as the OB starts its up or down cycle ... you should just hear a smooth start of the rams in motion.

Yams especially - Make sure to keep the rollers lubed to eliminate those gawd-awful squeaks ... but lube contact points for all brand OBs
 
Dale - I would only say that the second person is not needed. With the ram fully extended (trimmed up all the way) just fill the system then either reach up and hit the up button on the motor pan or walk around to the control box or dash and hit the up button.
Really does not make a difference however in the long run. There will still be a pretty large bubble of air trapped below the trim ram that cannot be purged until the ram is retracted (cycled) and the air forced back into the reservoir. The reservoir bottom is where the pump pick-up is. When the system is first cycled the pump will pick up some of this air in the reservoir and turn it into a frothy mess hence my comment on letting the system rest after cycling.
That is only way to insure a full fill after purging.

To the OP - When you remove the piston from the ram I would have the ram sitting vertically in a vice (protected by towel or cardboard) with the piston at the top. Also have a towel or shop rags handy. Remove the nut and keep in mind that all those drilled passages you will see once the nut and washer is removed will house a spring and check ball. Re-read my other post about scattering the springs and check balls. I keep something soft below the piston to catch anything that falls and keep it from bouncing......
 
Thanks guys, so one thing that also concerns me is that before, when we released the pressure in the pump we were able to move the motor up and down as we wanted since it was no longer pressurized. When we released the pressure this time we still couldn't move the motor, the piston seemed stuck. so we took out the bottom pin holding it in place. we were trying to raise the motor to take off the lower unit and do the water pump. This worked for the time being but is it normal for the piston to be stuck like that? I thought for sure when we released the pressure we would be able to raise it manually.
 

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