1963 Johnson FD-17B 18hp prep for season questions

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Slimcowboy1978

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I just got a 1964 MirroCraft 14’ Runabout. It came with a 1963 Johnson FD-17B. As usual, the PO either didn’t know anything about boats, knew and didn’t disclose, or what ever. He told me that the motor was a 15 hp, but noticed it was titled as an 18 hp. I knew enough to check the motor ID plate and quick google search confirmed that it was intact a 18hp motor. The guy then told me it was running like a top last season without any issues. I asked when the last service was done. I was told it was last spring. Well, I have reason not to believe him in both counts. The carburetor adjustment knobs are missing, the choke knob is also missing (but unimportant I think), the carburetor plate and screen is missing, the remote cables are both broken although connecting the tiller handle does work the throttle, and I can manually shift the gear box.

So I need the plate on the front of the carb, the mixture adjustment knobs, and both shift and throttle cables. I haven’t confirmed if the engine will even start at this point... I have pulled the recoil starter to verify the engine turns over though.

Since I don’t know the condition of the motor or the last time it was started I am thinking of replacing the impeller and impeller housing, new ignition kit (coils, points, condensers, wires, and spark plugs), carburetor kit, and possibly the fuel pump. While I have the motor torn apart, is there anything else I should replace while I am at it.

Another question I have. The boat is rated for a 40hp motor, should I just post this motor for sale and find a 35-40hp motor from a 62-66 vintage to run instead?

Last question, the remote cable assemblies, do I look for Motor assemblies, or the control box assemblies?

I am sure I have a million more questions, but I think this gives me a good start.
 
I have similar motor. My advice is to not spend any money on it until you figure out everything it needs. Sure parts are available but not necessarily cheap.

I would 1st check compression, if not above 100# stop there.

If Comp good, pull the flywheel (get a loaner harmonic balancer puller from auto store to do this) & look at coils & points. If they are very old, start adding up cost of all the parts.

By the time you rebuild lower unit, prop, water pump, carb, ignition system, thermostat, plus misc, you might have bought a better motor.
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
I have similar motor. My advice is to not spend any money on it until you figure out everything it needs. Sure parts are available but not necessarily cheap.

I would 1st check compression, if not above 100# stop there.

If Comp good, pull the flywheel (get a loaner harmonic balancer puller from auto store to do this) & look at coils & points. If they are very old, start adding up cost of all the parts.

By the time you rebuild lower unit, prop, water pump, carb, ignition system, thermostat, plus misc, you might have bought a better motor.
So in other words, just sell this motor as is and look for a 40 hp?
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
Just sayin' that I spent more on parts than I did for the motor.

If you want to go fast, get more HP!

So I’m looking at about $200 tops for “tune-up” parts along with replacement parts for the 1963 18hp motor. A 35-40hp Johnson of the same era runs $600+ And still needs $200 I. Tune up parts... I don’t see how your statement holds water.


Even if all I do is put gas into this motor, I have spent more on it than I paid for it... traded a trailer that was given to me for a boat and motor... so free to free...
 
So let me recap my questions...
first, I can’t find the air silencer listed in the parts manual (the round plate that may or may not have had a screen that screws onto the carburetor with two screws). Is this in fact a air silencer? Where do I find one?

Second, the control cables, how do I look those up? By engine, or by manufacturer of the side mount control box?

Third, in my original post I stated Coils, Wires, Points & Condensers, Spark Plugs, and water impeller kit, and carburetor kit. Are there any other items for a “Tune-Up” I should be looking at getting since I am digging in this deep?

Fourth, the idle mixture knobs? Where do I find those in the parts book?


Lastly if this motor is in good running order, how much is it worth? Is it worth me putting a tune on it just to sell it to recoup the loss of purchasing the larger motor? Like I said I can get a 35hp Johnson for $500-600 unknown condition.
 
Apparently someone thought that the 18 was enough for the boat you purchased so make your decision to either keep it or invest in another one.
If you decide to keep it then your decision to not skimp and to spend the money on exactly the parts you have mentioned is a very good decision.
A good running 18hp is a very good engine to have around.
Only thing I would add to this is a possible shift rod o-ring. Am sure by now it has seen better days and will be leaking water into the gearcase. Check the gear lube.
The knobs and plate are probably available through Ebay or www.aomci.org which is the antique outboard club. Guarantee you will find what you need in one or both spots.
If you decide on more horsepower the year models you mentioned are good years to pick from. There are differences in shifting however. Some are electric shift and some are straight mechanical. Your choice but if not mechanically inclined I would stay with mechanical. Just look for the shift lever on the side where they normally are.
As you said earlier. Makes no difference because you are going to spend a couple hundred bare minimum anyway for peace of mind!
I have enjoyed hundreds and hundreds of miles of trouble free operation from my 1958 Johnson 35hp that I did a complete service on. I have no doubt that there are a ton more miles and smiles left in it. Enjoy!
 
Pappy,
Is there any place else to find NOS parts besides eBay and www.aomci.org. I really don’t feel comfortable joining another club. I am already a paying member of 2 other hobby clubs which take up most of my free time. My boat is actually to help me escape from the other two hobbies.
I am a very active member in the “Overland” scene. I was made a Northwest Representative two months ago, and talks are that I will be promoted to Director within the next month or less. I also just got involved with my local Ham Radio Club. Both organizations have dues, and I don’t want to pay for a service that I am only going to use once or twice a year.

Now with all that, I don’t mind working on my boat and motor. I got them with the idea that I will have to work on them. This is my second boat and motor combo. I was given a boat 2 years a go because the old ‘55 Johnson 10hp wouldn’t start. I lurked here and found all the information I needed to get the old girl to fire up. Then with a little tweaking I got her purring like a kitten. But after kitting out my little Valco, that 10hp wasn’t enough motor to scoot me safely around my favorite reservoir. I would use 1 tank of gas to bring the boat from the dam back to the dock which was roughly 2 miles. I am scared that this little 18 hp motor is going to be the same. Currents mixed with winds are going to be a huge force to overcome.
 
Slimcowboy1978 said:
Pappy said:
Got any better pictures of the "cracked piece" ?

I’ll see if I can find one tomorrow, the pull rope handle sits on top of it.

It’s part 20

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1963&hp=18&model=FD-17&manufacturer=Johnson&section=Starter+Group
 
She runs...
I put the old
MirroCraft into one of the local reservoirs last Saturday. I was able to idle around the reservoir all day on high idle... no leaks in the hull (yay). However I couldn’t get the engine to rev past the high idle spot... got home and looked it over and found the throttle advance cam had the sheer key sheered. Then when I looked in the parts manual for a new sheer key, I found out that the oem throttle advance was metal and not plastic... so I ordered both. The engine runs great both hot and cold, and on high idle I was able to scoot around at a decent 5mp. Talking it over with the wife tonight, she wants me to put a new 20-30 hp Tuhatsu motor on it and hang this 18hp on the wall and use it sparingly to sell with the boat if I ever sell it.

Next week I am going to start addressing some issues on the MirroCraft. Primarily adding the floor along with floatation, and reworking the seats... the seat configuration doesn’t work for a tall guy like myself, and definitely wont work as a fishing machine. I spent too much time trying to figure out a way to cast and drive at the same time... no bueno.
 
I got my throttle linkage and shear key in today. Tomorrow I will go put it on and possibly if I have time take it back out to see how she does.
 
Well I took the boat out... and just as I suspected, even at wide open throttle the motor barely overpowered the wind... it took an hour to go one mile down streem (with current) heading into the wind... I was passed by a little speed boat running a 10hp Johnson.... (when I say little, I mean smaller than a 2 person jet ski. The boat was tiny and fast).
 
Pappy said:
For part numbers go to marineengine.

I got all parts except the carb silencer parts... not even sure if I’m going to mess with it... the engine is under powered for my boat and while fun in the small reservoir, is quite dangerous on the rest of the reservoirs I fish... so off it goes and a 40hp will be out on in its place...
 

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