J25RCSA

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Riverbean

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It had electric start added on, im confused what i actually have...no rectifier?? Does this mean theres no charge at WOT? Whats been changed under the flywheel if anything?? Im curious whats been added on besides the solenoid and the starter motor, or can someone tell me what wasnt on the motor before elec. Start was added?? J25rcsa is model# 1980
 
Hi,
I have the same configuration on my 25 Evinrude. If you want that 5 amp charge you need to install a different stater.
Last time i looked it was about $350.00. A well charged battery will start your motor all weekend. Just charge up and
go have FUN!
Don
 
I have a similar motor (1974 25hp) it has factory electric start with no charging system.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

 
For our 2 skiffs where the 'combo' or dual-purpose battery starts the 15hp motors and powers the auto bilge pumps, we use these. We just hard wire and water-tight all the connections (use 5200 in any connector [after connection of course], then marine adhesive-lined heatshrink over it) and keep the panel clean. Cover the leads in spiral wrap or the UV will kill them.

They have been out there in continuous saltwater-environment exposure for 2-years now and we've never lost a battery or had a power issue. Only $15 from Harbor Freight, link = https://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-solar-battery-charger-62449.html
....
Solar Charger.jpg
 
You will need a stator and a rectifier if you want the whopping 4 amp charging system.
On one of my boats I have a vintage 35hp electric start engine on it. I will charge up a battery and have it last for three days easily up on our Suwanee River events. Would probably last several days longer.
That....is a very nice engine if it is original? Looks pretty pristine.
 
Yes sir it is all original except the electric start..my grandpa bought it new in 79-80 and for 95% of its running time it was on no wake lakes and the other 5% of the time was at a lake with no restriction on speed once in the spring every year after ice out to run it a bit at WOT ( to make sure everything was sound) and one week to ten days every summer when we would go to south dakota... He took very good care of it as have i since 2004 when the boat and motor was given to me.....
 
So do i have a different stator under the flywheel or no stator and just coils???
 
You have a charge coil to charge the capacitor in the power pack and a timer base to tell the ignition system when to fire. You have no charging system.
My advice would be to simply charge up a battery and use it minus the wimpy charging system these engines have.
Also, on your no wake lakes? You would have about zero charging from the engine even if you bought the stator and rectifier. That engine really only begins to charge at planing speeds.
 
Yeah im not worried about charging at all...i usually charge the battery about every two weeks and only had it not start once since ive had it and all it took was one pull and it fired right up...i was just curious what excatly what i had because the absence of the rectifier and the black terminal deal that has all those wires connected.. I guess i assumed any electric start would have the charging capabilities....just out of curiosity are the flywheels the same with mine and a motor that has the stator, rectifier etc..? And is there anything under the flywheel that would be a good idea to replace because of age or is it one of those deals if it runs fine dont worry about it until it doesent run fine? Haha.. Sorry about all the questions but why does the 25 and 35 have different gear ratios when for the most part besides the couple parts on the exhaust housing and the swivel bracket and lower and carb they are the same engine? Or did i just answer my own question?? Meaning the lower is different (thru hub exhaust)?
 
Thank you pappy, one more question and ill get out of your hair for a while... I have a 81 25hp evinrude that was given to me but was missing cyl head and cover, i bought them on ebay and i was wondering if i can make the head gasket( i have a roll of material)) for it or is it not a good idea since it will not have the two metal rings that seal the cylinders like the oem's and other(sierra etc..) Aftermarket gaskets have?
 
Riverbean said:
Thank you pappy, one more question and ill get out of your hair for a while... I have a 81 25hp evinrude that was given to me but was missing cyl head and cover, i bought them on ebay and i was wondering if i can make the head gasket( i have a roll of material)) for it or is it not a good idea since it will not have the two metal rings that seal the cylinders like the oem's and other(sierra etc..) Aftermarket gaskets have?

Paper gasket won’t cut it.

You can use copper sheet like the go-fast guys do, but at the cost of a sheet of copper your in head gasket money already.

Paper would be fine for the water jacket though.
 
Riverbean said:
Thank you pappy, one more question and ill get out of your hair for a while... I have a 81 25hp evinrude that was given to me but was missing cyl head and cover, i bought them on ebay and i was wondering if i can make the head gasket( i have a roll of material)) for it or is it not a good idea since it will not have the two metal rings that seal the cylinders like the oem's and other(sierra etc..) Aftermarket gaskets have?

Absolutely not! And using a copper sheet between an aluminum cylinder head and aluminum cylinder and crankcase would set up one Hell of a battery, even in some fresh water! You would have nothing left but the copper gasket in a short amount of time. We do not even recommend the use of a never seize that contains copper in it for the same reason.
There is only one way to do this and that is to purchase the proper head gasket.
In this forum we strongly encourage folks to do it one time and do it right. That includes using OEM parts where available. Again....marineengine.com is your friend. At least you can look up the part number and search Ebay for a less expensive part.
 
DaleH said:
For our 2 skiffs where the 'combo' or dual-purpose battery starts the 15hp motors and powers the auto bilge pumps, we use these. We just hard wire and water-tight all the connections (use 5200 in any connector [after connection of course], then marine adhesive-lined heatshrink over it) and keep the panel clean. Cover the leads in spiral wrap or the UV will kill them.

They have been out there in continuous saltwater-environment exposure for 2-years now and we've never lost a battery or had a power issue. Only $15 from Harbor Freight, link = https://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-solar-battery-charger-62449.html
....
Solar Charger.jpg
So these only deliver .125amps. Guess there is no worry on over charging without a limiter.
 
You have to remember what I told you about how fast the engine needs to be running to charge your battery back at the maximum of 4 amps.
According to you the engine will be on no wake lake duty a majority of the time? You will have almost zero charging at these low RPMs.
Check marineengine.com and see if the flywheel is the same for your needs. I think it is but I have not checked. If not then you will also need a flywheel.

I just spent Thursday afternoon through Saturday afternoon on the Suwanee river with my 35hp and no charging system. Battery is a 2016 vintage so it may not be as robust as a new one. Anyway, I started the engine tons of times per day while running the river. Had plenty of battery left when I got home. Just food for thought.
 
I remember what you said...my grandpa and i fished mostly no wake lakes...i fish the river and other lakes that are not no wake...i was just curious and will probably not do it but the stator is only 80 bucks nos so it dis cross my mind...i agree about not needing the charge as my battery will go a week or so before the starter has trouble engaging tje flywheel....
 

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