trailer modification

Trailer related issues and discussion goes here.
frydaddy
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Location: tomball, tx

trailer modification

Post by frydaddy »

someone added this plywood deck to this trailer. I want to take it off and run bunks. the boat is a 1654. would I be alright to remove plywood and old roller bunks and then just move center bunks further out?

if yes should I run them flat or up on 2in side?

if no I want to remove rollers and run 4 wooden bunks and try to position them where they are not under ribs.

also I will be in saltwater often if that makes a difference on bunks flat side or narrow side up.
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lckstckn2smknbrls
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Location: Algonquin Il

trailer modification

Post by lckstckn2smknbrls »

Sounds like a good plan to me.
1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP

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richg99
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trailer modification

Post by richg99 »

Can't tell for sure if what I have is "correct", but my 1648 side console Lowe trailer has the 2x4 bunks upright.

I just added plastic strips to make them more slippery.

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TNtroller
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Location: E TN

trailer modification

Post by TNtroller »

Either plan should work, one way may work a bit better for you loading/unloading, it would be a trial and error method to determine the best for you.

frydaddy
Posts: 60
Joined: 14 Mar 2015, 22:04
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Location: tomball, tx

trailer modification

Post by frydaddy »

thanks guys, im going to coat the boat with gatorglide to help with loading. just wanted to be sure boat was supported properly on the road. I took a huge steel/plywood deck off the front and when I get the 2x8 and plywood off the trailer I will be taking a ton of weight off total package. im surprised the po didn't rip the nose off her winching that moster on that plywood.

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richg99
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN

trailer modification

Post by richg99 »

Slippery glides or some variation will save your winch and the bow connector, too.

nowgrn4
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Location: Florida

trailer modification

Post by nowgrn4 »

I would run the 3.5" width up. My trailer is wider than yours and I have my 2 by 4 bunks bolted right to the trailer frame without bunk supports. I covered the bunks with an inexpensive PVC fencepost I ripped in half on my table saw.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-Whit ... /202084744 Sitting low on the trailer really helps launching and retrieval on some of the "Funky" ramps I use.
17' Pro-Line 115HP DI Johnrude Bay rig
1652 Weld-Craft 50HP Johnrude fish camp rig
17' Grumman canoe 3.3HP Johnrude on side mount creek runner

frydaddy
Posts: 60
Joined: 14 Mar 2015, 22:04
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Location: tomball, tx

trailer modification

Post by frydaddy »

he is another pic before I tear all the crap off it. im going to go with 2 bunks and probably remove that rubber stop and mount a 2x4 carpeted stop a couple feet wide. my boat is squared off on front but that I will test how sturdy it is when winched up tight.
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20150331_161224.jpg

nowgrn4
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trailer modification

Post by nowgrn4 »

I can't tell from the pics. Are your fenders wider than the hull so you can drop everything down some?
17' Pro-Line 115HP DI Johnrude Bay rig
1652 Weld-Craft 50HP Johnrude fish camp rig
17' Grumman canoe 3.3HP Johnrude on side mount creek runner

frydaddy
Posts: 60
Joined: 14 Mar 2015, 22:04
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Location: tomball, tx

trailer modification

Post by frydaddy »

nowgrn4 wrote:I can't tell from the pics. Are your fenders wider than the hull so you can drop everything down some?
yes the first first pic was taken up close to try and show what was under there better. the sides of my boat are at a steep angle compared to newer jon's but I can go down some.

nowgrn4
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Joined: 24 Mar 2015, 19:18
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Location: Florida

trailer modification

Post by nowgrn4 »

If it fits between the fenders I would junk all that bunk stuff and just mount some 2 by 4 bunks right to the trailer frame cross members. I used 3" long 3/8" stainless carriage bolts to mount the bunks. I countersunk the heads a quarter inch down into the bunk and used ny-lock bolts under the cross members. Remember to extend the bunks back enough to support the transom/engine. After placement on the bunks adjust the center rollers snugly against the bottom center line.

The lower you get it positioned on the trailer the easier it will be to launch and retrieve. Plus fewer trailer components to rust out.
17' Pro-Line 115HP DI Johnrude Bay rig
1652 Weld-Craft 50HP Johnrude fish camp rig
17' Grumman canoe 3.3HP Johnrude on side mount creek runner

frydaddy
Posts: 60
Joined: 14 Mar 2015, 22:04
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Location: tomball, tx

trailer modification

Post by frydaddy »

nowgrn4 wrote:If it fits between the fenders I would junk all that bunk stuff and just mount some 2 by 4 bunks right to the trailer frame cross members. I used 3" long 3/8" stainless carriage bolts to mount the bunks. I countersunk the heads a quarter inch down into the bunk and used ny-lock bolts under the cross members. Remember to extend the bunks back enough to support the transom/engine. After placement on the bunks adjust the center rollers snugly against the bottom center line.

The lower you get it positioned on the trailer the easier it will be to launch and retrieve. Plus fewer trailer components to rust out.
those old rollers are pretty hard and cracking what if I just took center ones off as well and added a third 2x4 down the center. my boat doesmt have a rib exactly in the center of it so it would sit flat on it.

frydaddy
Posts: 60
Joined: 14 Mar 2015, 22:04
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Location: tomball, tx

trailer modification

Post by frydaddy »

nowgrn4 wrote:If it fits between the fenders I would junk all that bunk stuff and just mount some 2 by 4 bunks right to the trailer frame cross members. I used 3" long 3/8" stainless carriage bolts to mount the bunks. I countersunk the heads a quarter inch down into the bunk and used ny-lock bolts under the cross members. Remember to extend the bunks back enough to support the transom/engine. After placement on the bunks adjust the center rollers snugly against the bottom center line.

The lower you get it positioned on the trailer the easier it will be to launch and retrieve. Plus fewer trailer components to rust out.
those old rollers are pretty hard and cracking what if I just took center ones off as well and added a third 2x4 down the center. my boat doesmt have a rib exactly in the center of it so it would sit flat on it.

nowgrn4
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Joined: 24 Mar 2015, 19:18
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Location: Florida

trailer modification

Post by nowgrn4 »

I'm stumped. The center roller(rollers?) really helps center the hull and eases cranking until it rests on the bunks when retrieving. Does the front entry have a Vee or is it flat across the front?
17' Pro-Line 115HP DI Johnrude Bay rig
1652 Weld-Craft 50HP Johnrude fish camp rig
17' Grumman canoe 3.3HP Johnrude on side mount creek runner

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richg99
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN

trailer modification

Post by richg99 »

IMHO, unless you add plastic sliders, I'd think hauling your loaded hull over three carpeted bunks would be difficult.

Any roller would help slide the boat on.

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