Stretching out a trailer???? Suggestions???

I need to stretch my trailer out...I was wondering where most of you guys trailer axle sits in relation to the boat...right now my axles are almost in the midle of my boat causing it to jar around and not tow with the load forward. Also I'm going to switch up my crank and line since it's cable. Can some of you guys post a pic on how you remedy the bow stop and crank situation?

I was also wanting to see what I should to so I can tie up the boat at the transom...right now the 2x4's that the boat set on are up under the boat quite a ways and I gotta crawl under there to hook up to the trailer. I've been looking around at trailers and just don't see one with the axle kinda forwards with the transom ties in a convient place.

I'd like the axle to car lenght to be as short as possible so it'll track well since the road I drive on has alot of blind curves to get to the lake.

Thanks
JON SHEETS

When I was towing my boat with my Jeep Wrangler, I couldn't get the rear door open because the winch bar was too close. I got a length of galvanized hollow box & made the tongue about 30" longer (also had to splice wiring). This allowed me to move the winch bar back. Something like this may work for you to move the boat back. It does make your turning radius different but didn't hurt me any. With a lightweight boat I think it's O.K. It's been like that for ten years without any problems. You may even be able to find an old trailer to scavenge a tongue.

Thats another problem that i have with my ride...the rear door is a barn door...and swings wide...

Can you go more into detail about how you lenghtened your trailer and what it cost you?

Thanks
JON SHEETS

Like I said, it was about ten years ago but the new piece of galv. box cost me $30. I would guess that the cost has probably tripled over that time. All I did was replace the long piece of trailer tongue with a longer one. It's now 10'-6" long. Drilled holes to mount the side rails and coupler and spliced the wiring. After that it was just a little time to move the boat & winch bar to get the right adjustments. You can see that I have a longer space between the winch bar & coupler than is normal. You can probably search this site to find some on-line metals places to get a better idea of cost (shipping may be expensive on a long piece though). Maybe a scrap yard or an old trailer on Craig's list or a boat yard.

So you didn't have to do any welding?

You can get sleeves to join the two together with bolts, but if you have access to a welder, I think it would be better to sleeve it AND weld it.

I agree that welding would be better. The original trailer was not welded, though. It's a load-rite & I just bolted everything the same.

I extended a single place jet-ski trailer 7' to fit a 15' fiberglass boat. No welding required. I removed the 3' tongue and replaced it with a 10' piece. I used a portion of the old tongue to shim up the winch post to the correct height. Here's pics.

Before


After

Wow that looks really good with the jet ski trailer.

shfishinsticks said:

Click to expand...

Looks good, but I have a question.
Are you going to have anything there for the keel to ride on? looks like it would hit the trailer while loading/unloading? The spot where the long bar joins at the Y. I'm not real familiar with trailers, that's why I'm asking.

There is a chance it will hit that joint. There is now a Keelshield on the boat and a plastic bunk slide on that intersection. I was going to put a roller there, but as per the instructions for the Keelshield, it can't rest on a roller. That boat is almost complete now, I will post a pic before I sell it.

Thanks for the answer shfishinsticks. :beer: